Hi All
Hopefully I’m not attempting to start a duplicate thread. Having searched for truly relevant existing ones I have drawn a blank.
After a 10 mins drive and then parking briefly, I was attempting to reverse the vehicle when it started to shudder and wouldn’t rev. Fault messages came up- traction control fail, stability control fail, gearbox fault. I turned off and tried again and all was well but within a minute of driving it failed again. Stopped and restarted and drove well for 15 mins parked up for an hour and drove off. 5mins later failed again. Restarted and returned home, 20 mins, no problem. Next day I put it up on ramps to do an oil change (not to hopefully fix the fault but a scheduled service). I ran the engine to warm the oil and after 5mins it failed again. It now it can’t be driven. Shuddering, won’t rev but idle is slightly higher than normal. Error messages come up as before plus “gearbox fault” “ABS” and “PECAS”? (I think it said)came up one time. Mostly won’t go into gear now.
I’ve read about dry joints in the ABS module, low battery voltage and I’ve eliminated both of those.
I’ve also seen mention of Throttle body issues too.
If anyone out there with insight to this Stygian labyrinth of the Jaguar underworld can offer any assistance I would be very grateful. Thank you in advance.

 

Check the VIN for TSBs.
You need to post all DTCs in all the modules for better diagnosis.(CAN bus related modules)

 

Hi
I’ve connected up a a fault code reader and here are the fault codes that it reports;
P1122
P1111
P1642
P1797
P0702
P0560
U1261
Also I’ve noticed that vehicle “chirps” 10 times when the ignition is turned on.
Rev counter no go.
Throttle pedal does nothing, engine remains at idle.
Thanks again
Cheers
Tim

 

The chirping is likely the CLIMATE CONTROL panel.

 

Clear the codes with key on engine off then do a hard reset. See if the engine starts and revs. If it still doesn’t rev, check the codes to see what came back. If there’s no codes, check the tps connector on the passenger side of the throttle body.

 

Disconnect the battery clean the maf first if you have good knowledge clean the throttle body too
delete the codes remove the transmission drain plug and then refill to proper amount if that didn't fix the transmission then try Lucas transmission fix if no improvement you need another transmission
I hope you're retired millionaire this car needs retired millionaire ownership because it breaks heavily

 

Lol, the major parts like trans and engine cost around 3,000 USD. Not millions. Not to mention that with proper care and maintenance these things are quite reliable.

 

Yeah but You will probably need 3 transmission not 1This car far from the word of reliable beautiful yes reliable no way Acura is reliable tell about one part that doesn't fail every part in this car fail but to be honest the engine Crank and rod and pistons well made but every other part fail before any other car

 

Actually, I believe the X308 compares quite nicely as far as part durability. If there is a failure when compared to
other mainline vehicles, it is in the dovetailed sensor arrays. Many times, a DTC will occur and even after reading the
code, finding the part that is causing it is hit or miss. Sometimes they are quite specific and that is wonderful. Jaguars
are sophisticated driving machines, and thus, have much more hardware installed to make it so.

 

looking at an overpriced 2000 XJ8 VDP with 30k miles on it. Just gave our 1998 same model VDP with 70k miles on it to our grandson (elated young man)!
our 98 had a single but serious issue. The water pump impeller failed on a hot summer day and Jaguar shop repair was $3500.
Does the 2000 have the same potential issue? We otherwise had a lot of great trouble free miles in the 98.
ANY FEEDBACK, GOOD OR BAD, IS APPRECIATED!

1998 XJ8 VDP
1995 XJ VDP

 

If it has plastic tensioner then don't buy it plastic dry up with time and crack Easily I was lucky with my 2002 xj8 when I did the tensioners the plastic was broken and it was just bare metal imo if still want jaguar then get 2003 xjr but look if the previous owner replaced the coolant hoses and pay some extra get clean one my advice don't go lower than 2003 MY the water pump is easy to replace 3500$ for what !

 

Yes unfortunately these fuel pumps fail prematurely and need to be replaced every so often. Even on newer models. The best thing you can do to save yourself thousands of dollars is replace it yourself. It's not too hard if you're willing to get yourself dirty and have the correct tools and drip equipment.

 

Adding to what Eric said, *do not* just pull the tank rearward expecting everything to be honky dory when replacing the fuel pump either. You must unclip the lines from underneath the fuel tank first.

 

Hi Guys
This thread, that I started, seems to have gone a long way off track if some of the recent posts are anything to go by.
May I respectfully suggest that there may be some value in finding more appropriate threads if your requests and comments don’t properly relate to this one. Cheers.

 

Yes, I never suggested any way to do the pump replacement. There are obvious ways and instructions to do this, but thanks for the warning!

 

An update and some hopefully useful information that I’ve accrued.
The P1122 fault code seems to be the one to follow. This says that the Pedal Position Sensor is giving a low voltage output. This is not the TPS it’s the one on the throttle cable drum. This is a circular system in that the PPS tells the ECU to open or close the Throttle Body butterfly valve to give the amount of air the engine requires to produce the power demanded by the pedal position selected by the driver. The TPS tells the ECU what the position is of the butterfly valve is at so that it knows when to stop/start the TB motor, a basic electro mechanical feedback loop. The two sensors appear to be fed +5volts at one end of their respective potentiometers (the sensors are like the old school rotary volume controls etc on stereos and the like. A carbon horseshoe shaped track with a wiper contact attached to the centre shaft) and grounded/earthed at the other. The wipers are attached to the TB common shaft. These sensors both have what appears to be two tracks as they have four connections. Why this is the case I’m unsure (hopefully someone reading can help out here). My guess would be that as these carbon tracks will wear over time giving slightly different output voltages that an average is taken of both outputs. This would reduce the need for recalibration after fault code had been generated and the vehicle put into a fail safe status just because of a slight voltage change. I may be way off track here. Unfortunately I haven’t been able to find out what the voltages should be start up. Obviously the range should be from zero to 5v on at least one of the out pins of the sensors. Other brand sensors seem to be just under a volt at start up and approx 4.5v at WOT but these only had three pins on them. So, to me the extra pin normal voltage range remains a mystery. My one gives a different range to the third pin on both sensors.







The TB motor is a standard dc one. Just like a wiper motor. I have read in various threads suggesting that it is a “stepper” motor. It’s not. Consequently you can test it in situ by pulling the two wire round plug that feeds it and connecting 12volts across the two terminals of the TB side of that plug/socket. Obviously disconnect the car’s battery first and use an external 12v supply. I think the +be terminal is the blue wire but it won’t be a problem if you get it wrong as one way nothing will happen and the other the butterfly valve should go to max open. Just dab the power on to see what happens. This motor as already mentioned is controlled by the ECU but indirectly via a relay that is located under in the engine bay fuse box. If you suspect the relay you can swap it over with one of the others in there to test it. Probably best to use the one for the, say, fog lights that won’t produce an immobilising fault code! The TB motor isn’t difficult to remove, you just need a set of tamper proof Torx driver bits. There’s no nasty springs and the gearing isn’t timed. Be aware that the intermediate gear has a very delicate thrust washer on its shaft on it’s casing end.
I will attach some photos and copies of some very useful information relating to what I have written.
I’ve not got to the bottom of my problem yet but I’m currently try to find a PPS and TPS. The TPS isn’t hard to come but the PPS is as I’m sure wreckers to separate it from the TB. I can get a complete used TB from a wreckers for NZ$350 but knowing how complex this vehicle’s management is it may not necessarily be the remedy so I’d prefer to get a hold of the sensors only I know as I know the rest of the TB appears to be OK.