1999 xj8 problems
#1
1999 xj8 problems
1999 xj8 VD
Hello All,
I just bought a 99 xj8 not running. Car is mint with 90,000 on it,
I have been inspecting the engine and have noticed oil in the air cleaner compartment and down in the throttle body, I tried to turn the car over by hand with a 3/4 drive 3' bar and socket but it would not budge, the old owner said that the ck engine light would be interminent and when it died on him it gave a low oil light. The oil is clean as is the antifreeze and has no odor out of the norm, I see no problems other then that mentioned and need some advice as to what to check next.Also can you even turn these over by hand?
thanks,,,,,gee
Hello All,
I just bought a 99 xj8 not running. Car is mint with 90,000 on it,
I have been inspecting the engine and have noticed oil in the air cleaner compartment and down in the throttle body, I tried to turn the car over by hand with a 3/4 drive 3' bar and socket but it would not budge, the old owner said that the ck engine light would be interminent and when it died on him it gave a low oil light. The oil is clean as is the antifreeze and has no odor out of the norm, I see no problems other then that mentioned and need some advice as to what to check next.Also can you even turn these over by hand?
thanks,,,,,gee
#2
did you take the plugs out before you tried turning it ?
oil in aircleaner could be a worn engine pressurising case and blowing down the valvecover breathers which are connected into t.b and airfilter . or it could be the part-throttle breather blocked . easy fix , but wont be stopping the engine turning .
could be seized or could be tensioner exploded !!
oil in aircleaner could be a worn engine pressurising case and blowing down the valvecover breathers which are connected into t.b and airfilter . or it could be the part-throttle breather blocked . easy fix , but wont be stopping the engine turning .
could be seized or could be tensioner exploded !!
#4
#5
did you take the plugs out before you tried turning it ?
oil in aircleaner could be a worn engine pressurising case and blowing down the valvecover breathers which are connected into t.b and airfilter . or it could be the part-throttle breather blocked . easy fix , but wont be stopping the engine turning .
could be seized or could be tensioner exploded !!
oil in aircleaner could be a worn engine pressurising case and blowing down the valvecover breathers which are connected into t.b and airfilter . or it could be the part-throttle breather blocked . easy fix , but wont be stopping the engine turning .
could be seized or could be tensioner exploded !!
gee
#6
well I tried to turn it over ...NO JOY..Tried it in park and in nutural no luck, I think one of the pistons is melted to the wall of the block.. So I just bought a engine with the steel sleeves for 1900.00 shipped to me, my block has the coated cylinder walls and I dought that fix would be under 1900.00?
gee
gee
#7
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Based on your info, both the old and the new engines should be AJ27 units and the 2000 engine should be a direct swap. Since you don't have engine numbers yet, 3 quick checks. Make sure both engines have: (1) VVT solenoid connections protruding through top of valve covers at front of each bank (as opposed to connection on front of timing cover); (2) 2 camshaft position sensors (located towards rear inboard side of cylinder head) on the old and new engines (since you have the valve cover off the old engine, you can also look at the rear of the intake cam to see if both sides have 4-toothed sensor ring ); (3) throttle bodies do not have black vacuum pot. If all three checks are the same for both old and new engines, then it should be a direct fit and any parts swapping should be limited to accessories usually not sold with the replacement engine. I doubt it, but if they are different, let us know. I can help direct you through swapping out the necessary parts to make the replacement compatible, but easier to do while both engines are out (I speak from experience).
As H20 said, plan on changing upper tensioners, lower tensioners and guides, and thermostat housing while you are at it. I also suggest replacing other wear items (belts, hoses, water pump, fuel filter, etc.) and a good cleaining for the throttle body, mass air flow sensor, EGR valve, and part and full load breathers (breather cleaning should include the wire mesh inside the cam covers; I'm not sure how pros do it, but maybe a jag tech can fill you in on that procedure). Lastly, make sure any components staying with the car are in good working order, such as fuel pumps and lines, vacuum lines, Evap and EGR system components. I doubt problems with any of these lead to your engine seizure, but it sure would suck to replace the engine and it still not run right, leading to more diagnosis and repair.
As H20 said, plan on changing upper tensioners, lower tensioners and guides, and thermostat housing while you are at it. I also suggest replacing other wear items (belts, hoses, water pump, fuel filter, etc.) and a good cleaining for the throttle body, mass air flow sensor, EGR valve, and part and full load breathers (breather cleaning should include the wire mesh inside the cam covers; I'm not sure how pros do it, but maybe a jag tech can fill you in on that procedure). Lastly, make sure any components staying with the car are in good working order, such as fuel pumps and lines, vacuum lines, Evap and EGR system components. I doubt problems with any of these lead to your engine seizure, but it sure would suck to replace the engine and it still not run right, leading to more diagnosis and repair.
#16
Based on your info, both the old and the new engines should be AJ27 units and the 2000 engine should be a direct swap. Since you don't have engine numbers yet, 3 quick checks. Make sure both engines have: (1) VVT solenoid connections protruding through top of valve covers at front of each bank (as opposed to connection on front of timing cover); (2) 2 camshaft position sensors (located towards rear inboard side of cylinder head) on the old and new engines (since you have the valve cover off the old engine, you can also look at the rear of the intake cam to see if both sides have 4-toothed sensor ring ); (3) throttle bodies do not have black vacuum pot. If all three checks are the same for both old and new engines, then it should be a direct fit and any parts swapping should be limited to accessories usually not sold with the replacement engine. I doubt it, but if they are different, let us know. I can help direct you through swapping out the necessary parts to make the replacement compatible, but easier to do while both engines are out (I speak from experience).
As H20 said, plan on changing upper tensioners, lower tensioners and guides, and thermostat housing while you are at it. I also suggest replacing other wear items (belts, hoses, water pump, fuel filter, etc.) and a good cleaining for the throttle body, mass air flow sensor, EGR valve, and part and full load breathers (breather cleaning should include the wire mesh inside the cam covers; I'm not sure how pros do it, but maybe a jag tech can fill you in on that procedure). Lastly, make sure any components staying with the car are in good working order, such as fuel pumps and lines, vacuum lines, Evap and EGR system components. I doubt problems with any of these lead to your engine seizure, but it sure would suck to replace the engine and it still not run right, leading to more diagnosis and repair.
As H20 said, plan on changing upper tensioners, lower tensioners and guides, and thermostat housing while you are at it. I also suggest replacing other wear items (belts, hoses, water pump, fuel filter, etc.) and a good cleaining for the throttle body, mass air flow sensor, EGR valve, and part and full load breathers (breather cleaning should include the wire mesh inside the cam covers; I'm not sure how pros do it, but maybe a jag tech can fill you in on that procedure). Lastly, make sure any components staying with the car are in good working order, such as fuel pumps and lines, vacuum lines, Evap and EGR system components. I doubt problems with any of these lead to your engine seizure, but it sure would suck to replace the engine and it still not run right, leading to more diagnosis and repair.
gee
#17
#18
The new upper timing chain tensioners MUST be the metal-bodied type, the plastic ones are no good, and will fail quickly.
I believe there is a US firm making new replacement aluminium thermostat housings - got to be better than the plastic one.
Water pumps were a regular failure point in the UK V8 cars - the pump vanes fell off, so eventually the pump did not actually pump anything. Where the pump vanes went nobody seems to know - into the block presumably !
As you have seen with the seized engine, it does not pay to ignore the symptoms of failure of the Nickasil bores !!
I believe there is a US firm making new replacement aluminium thermostat housings - got to be better than the plastic one.
Water pumps were a regular failure point in the UK V8 cars - the pump vanes fell off, so eventually the pump did not actually pump anything. Where the pump vanes went nobody seems to know - into the block presumably !
As you have seen with the seized engine, it does not pay to ignore the symptoms of failure of the Nickasil bores !!
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