1999 xj8 v8 wont start no check engine light?
#1
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hello i have an xj8 that will not start... there is no check engine light on, i was told by a mechanic that the fuel pump was toast... so i replaced that and new fuses/relays still no start. i checked the fuel rail it is getting fuel but will not start still? i am thinking it may be a bad crankshaft sensor? any help would be greatly appreciated.
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#4
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yes it was starting then the water pump started to leak so it sat for a month or so then we fixed that and tried to start engine.. it would not start. mechanic said it was fuel pump because no fuel was getting to the fuel rails.. so we replaced the fuel pump and still no start. It will crank but will not start at all.
#6
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one month is not that much, it could be crank sensor but it rather didn't die of doing nothing during that month so it is not that probable.
Is your battery fully charged? does it sound like almost starting or just cranks without hope?
Some easy things: maybe it is flooded after playing with fuel pump, try to crank it with gas pedal floored or if that doesn't work with fuel pump relay removed
Is your battery fully charged? does it sound like almost starting or just cranks without hope?
Some easy things: maybe it is flooded after playing with fuel pump, try to crank it with gas pedal floored or if that doesn't work with fuel pump relay removed
#7
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one month is not that much, it could be crank sensor but it rather didn't die of doing nothing during that month so it is not that probable.
Is your battery fully charged? does it sound like almost starting or just cranks without hope?
Some easy things: maybe it is flooded after playing with fuel pump, try to crank it with gas pedal floored or if that doesn't work with fuel pump relay removed
Is your battery fully charged? does it sound like almost starting or just cranks without hope?
Some easy things: maybe it is flooded after playing with fuel pump, try to crank it with gas pedal floored or if that doesn't work with fuel pump relay removed
yes battery is fully charged. i mean it sounds like it wants to start , i have tried cranking it with gas pedal on floor i havent dried doing it with fuel pump relay removed though.
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#8
#9
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Do you have a scanner to plug into your car?
When the key is turned to position 2, the car does a bulb check of the instrument pack (IP) and it’s very important that CEL bulb lights up. If memory serves me, that specific bulb is actually an led that’s hard wired into the IP.
When the key is turned to position 2, the car does a bulb check of the instrument pack (IP) and it’s very important that CEL bulb lights up. If memory serves me, that specific bulb is actually an led that’s hard wired into the IP.
Last edited by Addicted2boost; 06-27-2022 at 05:08 AM.
#10
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Do you have a scanner to plug into your car?
When the key is turned to position 2, the car does a bulb check of the instrument pack (IP) and it’s very important that CEL bulb lights up. If memory serves me, that specific bulb is actually an led that’s hard wired into the IP.
When the key is turned to position 2, the car does a bulb check of the instrument pack (IP) and it’s very important that CEL bulb lights up. If memory serves me, that specific bulb is actually an led that’s hard wired into the IP.
#11
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A.J.P (10-05-2022)
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#13
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Bob, I was simply trying to find out if there was any kind of a CEL on with the key on and engine off. You know as well as I that there must be a CEL on during the bulb test (ignition key on engine off position 2) of the IP to see if the ECM is alive. It doesn’t matter if there’s no codes, pending codes or 5 pages of codes stored in the ECM. I know you have significantly more experience with the jags and I only have 10 years but, I can honestly say I’ve not encountered a burned out led specifically for the CEL itself during my time with the jags.
Jermyc, if what you say is true that you have no CEL with key on engine off, are you able to communicate with the ECM (or any other system) using your scanner?
Jermyc, if what you say is true that you have no CEL with key on engine off, are you able to communicate with the ECM (or any other system) using your scanner?
#14
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Bob, I was simply trying to find out if there was any kind of a CEL on with the key on and engine off. You know as well as I that there must be a CEL on during the bulb test (ignition key on engine off position 2) of the IP to see if the ECM is alive. It doesn’t matter if there’s no codes, pending codes or 5 pages of codes stored in the ECM. I know you have significantly more experience with the jags and I only have 10 years but, I can honestly say I’ve not encountered a burned out led specifically for the CEL itself during my time with the jags.
Jermyc, if what you say is true that you have no CEL with key on engine off, are you able to communicate with the ECM (or any other system) using your scanner?
Jermyc, if what you say is true that you have no CEL with key on engine off, are you able to communicate with the ECM (or any other system) using your scanner?
#15
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Well as long as the scanner communicates with the ECM, that’s a real good sign. In this instance I’m with XJack to say that it’s flooded.
I would have a battery charger or jumper cables from another running car to help do the start method. The repeated cranking idea is to 1) clear out the flooded cylinders and 2) heat up the piston rings so they’ll seal up to the walls to create as much pressure as possible. If you crank only with the vehicles battery power, there’s a good possibility that you’ll continue to have a flooded issue. These cars DEMAND a strong battery to keep all the modules happy while your cranking the engine over with strong voltage AND amperage. Some people have good luck with the oil in the cylinders method but I haven’t had much luck with it. I myself just keep the gas pedal to the floor and crank the engine over for about 15 seconds at a time, turn the key off for about 20 seconds then foot to floor crank about 15 seconds and off 20 seconds. I do this method about 3 times then I try to start the engine with foot off of the gas and see what happens.
I would have a battery charger or jumper cables from another running car to help do the start method. The repeated cranking idea is to 1) clear out the flooded cylinders and 2) heat up the piston rings so they’ll seal up to the walls to create as much pressure as possible. If you crank only with the vehicles battery power, there’s a good possibility that you’ll continue to have a flooded issue. These cars DEMAND a strong battery to keep all the modules happy while your cranking the engine over with strong voltage AND amperage. Some people have good luck with the oil in the cylinders method but I haven’t had much luck with it. I myself just keep the gas pedal to the floor and crank the engine over for about 15 seconds at a time, turn the key off for about 20 seconds then foot to floor crank about 15 seconds and off 20 seconds. I do this method about 3 times then I try to start the engine with foot off of the gas and see what happens.
#17
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Yep. Pretty classic bore wash: keeping the throttle pedal on the floor to cut off fuel flow (which causes bore wash) does not alway provide enough oil in the cylinders to provide compression if it has been sitting for a while. Pull a couple of plugs and eye dropper engine oil into the cylinders, try to start with pedal to the floor.
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