2000 XJ8 AJV8 how to replace piston after broken timing chain?
#22
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Welcome to the forum dolamyte. It's unlikely that you have no compression on all eight cylinders from a tensioner or timing chain problem. Both sides are unlikely to fail at the same time. Do you actually read 0 on all cylinders?
Before proceeding with parts and tools, remove the covers and see if the cam flats line up.
If he just backed out of the driveway and shut it off, it's likely that it suffered cylinder wash (or bore wash). Do a search of those topics to understand. But that should not result in 0 compression, too low to start, yes.
And then there is no spark. I assume you removed some coils to determine that. Borrow a code reader and come back with the codes for help in deciding where to go from here.
That engine may not be bad.
Before proceeding with parts and tools, remove the covers and see if the cam flats line up.
If he just backed out of the driveway and shut it off, it's likely that it suffered cylinder wash (or bore wash). Do a search of those topics to understand. But that should not result in 0 compression, too low to start, yes.
And then there is no spark. I assume you removed some coils to determine that. Borrow a code reader and come back with the codes for help in deciding where to go from here.
That engine may not be bad.
Last edited by RJ237; 01-01-2015 at 01:30 PM. Reason: remove extra line, add last sentance
#23
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........>>>>
If he just backed out of the driveway and shut it off, it's likely that it suffered cylinder wash (or bore wash). Do a search of those topics to understand. But that should not result in 0 compression, too low to start, yes.
And then there is no spark. I assume you removed some coils to determine that. Borrow a code reader and come back with the codes for help in deciding where to go from here.
That engine may not be bad.
If he just backed out of the driveway and shut it off, it's likely that it suffered cylinder wash (or bore wash). Do a search of those topics to understand. But that should not result in 0 compression, too low to start, yes.
And then there is no spark. I assume you removed some coils to determine that. Borrow a code reader and come back with the codes for help in deciding where to go from here.
That engine may not be bad.
This is 99% of the time caused by starting the engine from cold and shutting of again before the engine has competed the warm up cycle which includes reaching a certain temp. before the upper O2 sensors pre-heaters shut off and engine returns to normal resvs.
When the engine is re-started, the computer uses the last parameter and over fuels the start up leading to classuc bore wsh which removes all vestiges of oil from the cyclinders....meaning the engine will wind over but will not regain compression.
Two ways of fixing this is to remove all plugs and squirt about a tablespoon of oil down each cylinder, replace plugs, hold throttle in wide open position and continue to wind over for at least 20 seconds and it should catch and fire up
and making sure that engine is allowed to complete warm up before shutting off.
The other method is to try winding over with throttle wide open for 20 seconds....stop, switch off, then switch on and WITHOUT touching throttle,
allow the engine to catch of it's own accord.
This last resort relies a lot on ambient temp.
Too many of these start malfunctions are caused by owners who insist doing a throttle dance on the bloody gas pedal!!
THIS IS NOT a double pumper!!
Leave the frickin' throttle alone and allow the computer to do it's own thing!
#24
![Default](/forum/images/icons/icon1.gif)
I'm afraid THAT is the classic symptom of 'Bore Wash'
This is 99% of the time caused by starting the engine from cold and shutting of again before the engine has competed the warm up cycle which includes reaching a certain temp. before the upper O2 sensors pre-heaters shut off and engine returns to normal resvs.
When the engine is re-started, the computer uses the last parameter and over fuels the start up leading to classuc bore wsh which removes all vestiges of oil from the cyclinders....meaning the engine will wind over but will not regain compression.
Two ways of fixing this is to remove all plugs and squirt about a tablespoon of oil down each cylinder, replace plugs, hold throttle in wide open position and continue to wind over for at least 20 seconds and it should catch and fire up
and making sure that engine is allowed to complete warm up before shutting off.
The other method is to try winding over with throttle wide open for 20 seconds....stop, switch off, then switch on and WITHOUT touching throttle,
allow the engine to catch of it's own accord.
This last resort relies a lot on ambient temp.
Too many of these start malfunctions are caused by owners who insist doing a throttle dance on the bloody gas pedal!!
THIS IS NOT a double pumper!!
Leave the frickin' throttle alone and allow the computer to do it's own thing!
This is 99% of the time caused by starting the engine from cold and shutting of again before the engine has competed the warm up cycle which includes reaching a certain temp. before the upper O2 sensors pre-heaters shut off and engine returns to normal resvs.
When the engine is re-started, the computer uses the last parameter and over fuels the start up leading to classuc bore wsh which removes all vestiges of oil from the cyclinders....meaning the engine will wind over but will not regain compression.
Two ways of fixing this is to remove all plugs and squirt about a tablespoon of oil down each cylinder, replace plugs, hold throttle in wide open position and continue to wind over for at least 20 seconds and it should catch and fire up
and making sure that engine is allowed to complete warm up before shutting off.
The other method is to try winding over with throttle wide open for 20 seconds....stop, switch off, then switch on and WITHOUT touching throttle,
allow the engine to catch of it's own accord.
This last resort relies a lot on ambient temp.
Too many of these start malfunctions are caused by owners who insist doing a throttle dance on the bloody gas pedal!!
THIS IS NOT a double pumper!!
Leave the frickin' throttle alone and allow the computer to do it's own thing!
#25
![Default](/forum/images/icons/icon1.gif)
I'm grinning from ear to ear from this news! I may still need to replace those tensioners, it has 128k miles on it. It is being towed to me from the shop That did a lousy job diagnosing it! I'll let you know as soon as i try these methods to get running, and I'll be certain to read the sections about cylinder washing! Thank you so much!
I would definitely be replacing the secondary tensioners and chains making sure they are the 3rd gen alloy bodied types
At 128k i would also replace serpentine belt and thermostat, if they have not already been done.
#27
#28
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I usually add about an once of motor oil to each cylinder and crank the engine over with the spark plugs removed.
Then install the plugs/coils and crank it again.
IT WILL SMOKE A LOT!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
You can't really add too much oil if you crank it with the plugs OUT.
The excess will 'spit' out the plug holes to prevent 'hydraulic-lock'.
I would rather add enough oil ONCE than to have to do this repeatedly to get the engine started. This is just the way I do it and everyone has their own method.
bob gauff
Then install the plugs/coils and crank it again.
IT WILL SMOKE A LOT!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
You can't really add too much oil if you crank it with the plugs OUT.
The excess will 'spit' out the plug holes to prevent 'hydraulic-lock'.
I would rather add enough oil ONCE than to have to do this repeatedly to get the engine started. This is just the way I do it and everyone has their own method.
bob gauff
Last edited by motorcarman; 01-06-2015 at 05:45 PM.
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