Thanks Steve & Faser!

All of the local mechanics that I have spoken with have indicated that they need to "drop the pan" in order to make a better diagnosis.

While I am not a mechanic by trade I am pretty handy with a wrench---
1 Any concerns with doing this my self?
2 Any special tools?
3 Is it fairly accessable (will research other posts here for that process)
4 more of a question of "Forum Etiquette"--- should I start a new forum thread for any questions I have on dropping the pan?

Thanks again to all who have responded this community is the BEST!

RJH

 

Should be fairly straightforward- drain the oil, remove the bolts around the pan (black metal and very accessible) then pull it off.

I am interested in seeing your findings, as I have a motor in my garage that may have suffered the same fate. I haven't pulled the pan yet.

 

Thanks Dsnyder--I Will continue to post pics & findings.

 

I am a native of Neenah, WI so I feel compelled to assist my fellow Badger.

 

HI All-

I just drained the oil & dropped the pan. I placed a thin sheet of semi-permeiable foam over the top of the collection bin to catch any debris Welcome to Facebook - Log In, Sign Up or Learn More

Guess what... NO METAL BITS!

I did however find a little chunck of ugly red plastic
http://www.facebook.com/photo.php?fb...type=1&theater
http://www.facebook.com/?ref=logo#!/...type=1&theater
Looks like tensioners are going to need to be replaced.

Do you think that I am I out of the woods for rod/bearing damage?

What to do now?

Anybody have a list of what I all want to have done at this point?

uppers & lower tensioners on both sides--right?

New Chains?

oil pump? Sump?

what else?

As always Thanks for any/all advice---

(knock on wood) Feeling like the good karma from this Forum is working !

 

Hey, jag,

U've got a rod knock. Probably first journal spun a bearing. I'm putting a new crank in an '01 XJ8 for the same reason. Ur probably gonna need a GOOD mechanic and machine shop who knows jags well, as they're pretty persicketty 'bout their crank clearances.
I'm going yo try to post some pix of the whole ordeal so mabe u guys can cry with me.
Steve

 

Smagl,

Very interested in seeing those pics and the story!

D

 

I think you need to pull off the bearing caps and look at the big ends but, although I've done that in plenty of engines, I haven't attacked a Jaguar so, hopefully, someone who has can advise.
The plastic you found probably came from a tensioner but I can't see that noise being anything other than a big end.

 

Unfortunately, your not out of the woods yet - keep in mind you can have tiny metal shavings in the oil (I looked at the pictures and the oil has a reflective shimmering quality to it almost like you would see in a metallic paint finish) - best bet would be to have the oil tested for metal particles (if you have any of that oil left) - As the other members have mentioned already - further inspection and tear down is in order to rule out any "mechanical" issues. No sense in investing in new chains, guides and tensioners until everything else checks out.

 

Thanks Abonano---Where would I go to have the oil tested for metal parts?

RJH

 

If the pan is off it may be faster to inspect the front two big ends. A picture paints a thousand words so have a look at the one I've provided. You may need to hand turn the engine via the big nut holding the crank pulley damper - clockwise only - to get good purchase on the big end bolts.

The big end bearing you are trying to inspect is behind two bolts, these attach the con rod to the crank - the very important thing here is the fact the con-rod is fracture split, so only fits one way, if you don't put it in the way it came out it's a rather bigger job to fix. So another suggestion is to run a marker pen down one side of the con-rod big end.

Your revving may have scored the journal or crank face. This is why other members have suggested a machine shop that can take down the journal face to remove the scores/damage - again a big job as the engine preferably needs to come out to remove the crank.

At this stage you're trying to find out how far the damage extends - you will need to know the replacement bearing grade, the engine has the bearing grade codes for each cylinder on the side of the engine block, digitally etched.

I can help decipher these if you can supply the numbers. They tally with a chart, Jaguar use colours to grade them. If you're very very lucky and the crank is ok (doubtful) then a replacement bearings is the next job - and to do this correctly it's crank out, i.e. engine out, it's the way I do it, as the engine can come out in a morning.

Another thing I went through with the Chinney member thread was chain slap, have you got round to inspecting the timing chain tensioners? As you found a red bit, this used to be part of a tensioner that has broken - the timing cover and crank pulley need removing to refresh all the parts behind the timing cover.

If you're ok with doing work yourself it's not bad, but if paying someone to do it it can get very expensive quickly. A replacement engine is another option - you'll have to do more research, and run the numbers.

BTW I do not use facebook - so please use an image provider like photobucket, so we can all see what you're posting.

 

Hi All--New Update!


Sean B Thanks for all the good info!---For clarification, I only dropped the lower oil pan (not upper). upon removal of the oil pump take-up-screen I found more plastic pieces there, as well as above on the lower framework of the upper oil pan.

I decided to pull the cam cover on the left side to inspect.--Upper tensioner looks OK, but found more bits of U.R.P. (Ugly Red Plastic) floating about

slowly cranked the engine by hand and when the flats of the cams lined up, there was some slack in the timing chain --see Photo-- b9f7bf0c.jpg picture by jagnicifant - Photobucket

(side note--moved photos & videos to photobucket so all should be able to view)

So it must be the lower tensioner(s) gone bad, yes?

Question:
1. Are ther shared procedures to inspecting the bearings & replacing the lower Tensioners? i.e. if i'm doing one procedure, should I just do both at the same time?

2. How big a job is it to drop the upper oil pan?

3. Will I need any specialized tools (e.g. I do't have an engine hoist )
(i'll search the fourms for process, but please feel free to chime in with your
thoughts & experiences)

Thanks again to all for you thoughts, input and advice!--You're all Rock Stars in my book!

RJH

 

Two trains of thought... One...(Thorough method) Here is the link for the oil test kit:


Two... (the inexpensive and sloppy method) - take a magnet and run it through the oil and rinse the magnet in water - if you have a collection of metal shards - your answer will be right on the face of the magnet.

 

Hi I agree don't start it again! First of all check your air filter canister for oil at the bottom, if present, then more likely than not the cylinder walls are gone!The walls are coated with( Nikasil ) A composition of nickel and silicon,althought very hard,it brakes down when sulphur is in the gasoline. Drain oil and check for any metal like deposits.If so new engine! if not.Make it easy on your self and have a jaguar dealer to check it out.For about $200 you will have the answer.And can go from there. I wish you all the best luck! There is nothing like driving a jag!

 

It is for sure within the rotating mass of the engine; however, given you have evidence that the tensioners have already disintegrated, I would install the tensioners; and temporarily put it back together to see if the noises have abated. Just reassemble what you need to perform a test run.

The work done so far is not what you'd do to pull the engine, so you will not be that far behind by testing for the noise after the tensioner job.

 

ordering the timing kit today should have her all buttoned back up by weeks end.

Will also post pic of tensioners etc.

Thanks All!