It just won’t seem to catch but it has spark and as far as I’m concerned fuel, if I hold it for a while it really starts to sap the battery too.

 

Did you start it & turn off within a couple of mins previously? They are well known for flooding if you do as they run mega rich initially to warm the cats up. The general theory to avoid it again is don't turn it off till the idle has dropped to it's normal 600rpm.
The normal fix is to floor it, & hold the pedal down then spin it on the starter for sodding ages. Stopping every 30secs or so to let the starter cool. I did it once with my previous 4.0 Sov, must have taken 7-8 goes before it even spluttered.

People will suggest taking the plugs out & a few drops of oil in each hole as the excess fuel can cause bore wash so there's no compression till it clears but I've never needed to do that.

 

I have had to "kick" an engine off using a small shot of starting fluid.
As posted above it could be bore wash and as soon as you can get the engine started the heat and combustion forces will fix it.

I won't bring up Nikasil but with a 2000 model I think it's still a possibility? Any idea?
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I believe high sulphur fuels were phased out years ago so that's not an issue now.

 

I tried to floor it while starting and did that for around 15 times with no sputters. So put some starter in now and try it out or look elsewhere?

 

Whats the recent history on this car? Is it just a regualr working car, ran yesterday or last week sort of thing and today it won't start or has it been in storage and this is just getting out for the spring or something?

What makes you say as far as you're concerned that its getting fuel. What have you done to test that?

How does it sound when it cranks? Like is it the normal starting sound or does it seem like its cranking fast or anything?

Have you checked the computer for codes? There may be info in there that will help.

 

Yeah, Mayhem is spot on. We could use a little history and how you
determined it has fuel delivery. (as far as you are concerned)

 

It was getting fuel fine until now, it was running before and now it’s just quit, I had fixed it like a month back and hadn’t taken it out until 3 days ago where I ran it pretty good, just tried to start it again yesterday and had the crank but won’t start.

 

all codes I had I’ve fixed, it still has a drive cycle code that arrived after I replaced the battery but I don’t think that has anything to do with it, the cranking sounds fine it just won’t start.

 

Have you checked the Schreader valve on the fuel rail for pressure?

 

I bought some stater fluid and it responds to it pretty immediately but it gets dragged back into cranking after a second. I haven’t checked the shrader valve yet either.

 

Sounds like you're not getting fuel to me. Thats where I'd be looking if it were my car. Jump the fuel pump relay with the car off to see if you hear the pump run, pop the schrader valve at the fuel rail to see if you have pressure at the engine. Maybe a bad relay or fuse, failed pump, clogged filter or something like that.

 

Yes...the no fuel from the fuel pump situation. It's not a terrible job,
but it does consume some time.

 

What does this fuel pump project entail?

 

The hardest part is disconnecting the fuel lines from under the tank *prior to* sliding the tank back. If you think you feel sporty enough to pull the tank back before you remove the fuel lines from underneath, you’ll crush both of them then the real fun starts. Also you need lots of patience, WD40 and some small picks/flathead screwdriver (snub nose pliers for the clamps) to *carefully* remove the hoses from the evap flange on top of the tank. If you have more than a quarter tank of fuel, you’ll need to siphon the fuel out into another container.