Hi, I have some questions I am hoping someone can offer insight on about my Jaguar. She is a 2000 XJ8L, and she sat for over a year. I was driving a 1999 XJ8L, and she ran like a charm, but was totaled recently in an accident. Here is where we will start.

The 2000 would not start....she did the whole turning over, but never kicked in. I then did the oil in the cylinders, and that seemed to help, in that she finally started but would cut off if I took my foot off the accelerator. To keep her running I would have to have the gas depressed about halfway. And it sounded awful and weak.

Showed Restricted Performance, etc. SO I ran the codes with my scanner, and came back with these:

P0305, P0306, P0307 and P0308. Coils bad or faulty Plugs.

P1314 - Misfire Rate Catalyst Damage Faulk Bank 2

P0327 - Knock Sensor 1 Circuit Low Bank 1
P0332 - Knock Sensor 2 Circuit Low Bank 2

P0352 - Ignition Coil B (Electrical Secondary) Primary Computer Circuit -same below, I have only added the Coil Letter.
P0353 - C
P0355 - E
P0358 - H

P1368 - Ignition Spare Ignition SYstem Failure Group 2 Passenger Side

So, I went out and took the parts off the 1999 Jaguar, that was running perfectly well up until the accident, and placed them in the 2000 Jaguar. My research led me to believe that the coil packs, knock sensors, etc., were interchangeable.I also installed new spark plugs.

Now, she won't kick in at all. She turns over, and will nit fire up at all.

I am at a loss at this point. I have put in clean fuel, added gas dry in case there was some excess moisture in the tank. All to no avail. I have checked the gas line via the Schrader Valve on the metal line, and it will squirt out fuel if I depress it after having placed the ignition in the on position. I cannot detect any vacuum lines not connected, etc.

After changing the parts, I cleared the faults and they did not return. However, the engine did not actually start. It was just turning over and failing to kick in. I also tried a bit of starter spray, but didn't want to put too much in as I had read some bad things potentially happening with that. Even then, still no luck.

I am hoping some members will reply with suggestions to help me resolve the issue.

Should I put the old coil packs & knock sensors back on....as at least it was firing up at that point? I should point out that I no longer show coil packs or knock sensor faults, but could that be due to the engine not actually running, as opposed to just trying to start?

Any help is GREATLY APPRECIATED.

Mike

 

Welcome to the forum Mike,

I've copied this from your Intro for advice from members with the same model.

Graham

 

I believe your fine with the coil pack swap out, pretty sure your ok with the knock sensors. But its those other codes you had and they are something to scratch your head about.
I would start with a cylinder compression test and check MAP and MAF. If the MAF is the same from the wrecked one, I would change that out also. A bad MAF will not allow a car to start if fouled and thus could eliminate some of the other issues, but more than likely not all. The MAF control air/fuel mixture and if that isn't correct at the beginning, then that old saying comes to the forefront "....***t rolls down hill..."

I did find this test procedure, but the difference is both banks codes were present (1313 and 1314)

Test:
•1. Ensure the harness continuity injector pin 1 is correctly wired to PI 119/005. If this gives a positive result then go to step 2. If the circuit is open then find and correct the wiring fault, re-connect the harness and go to step 13.
•2. Ensure the harness continuity in each injector pin 2 is correctly wired to GEMS ECM connection. If this gives a positive result go to step 3. If the circuit is open then find and correct the wiring fault, re-connect the harness and go to step 13.
•3. Ensure the harness continuity from each coil pin 1 is correctly wired to GEMS ECM connection. If this gives a positive result then go to step 4. If the circuit is open then find and correct the wiring fault, re-connect the harness and go to step 13.
•4. Ensure the harness continuity from each coil pin 1 is correctly wired to RS 001/010. If this gives a positive result then go to step 5. If the circuit is open then find and correct the wiring fault, re-connect the harness and go to step 13.
•5. Ensure the harness insulation from each injector pin 1 is correctly wired to ground. If this gives a positive result then go to step 6. If it short circuits then find and correct the wiring fault, re-connect the harness and go to step 13.
•6. Ensure the harness insulation from each injector pin 2 is correctly wired to ground. If this gives a positive result then go to step 7. If it short circuits then find and correct the wiring fault, re-connect the harness and go to step 13.
•7. Ensure the harness insulation from each coil pin 1 is correctly wired to ground. If this gives a positive result then go to step 8. If it short circuits then find and correct the wiring fault, re-connect the harness and go to step 13.
•8. Ensure the harness insulation coil from each pin 2 is correctly wired to ground. If this gives a positive result then go to step 9. If it short circuits then find and correct the wiring fault, re-connect the harness and go to step 13.
•9. Check the voltage reading between each injector pin 2 connector and PI 119/005. If it reads 0V then go to step 10. If it reads Vbatt then find and correct the wiring fault, re-connect the harness and go to step 13.
•10. Check the voltage reading of each injector pin 1 connector and PI 119/005. If it reads 0V then re-connect the harness and go to step 11. If the reading is Vbatt then find and correct the wiring fault, re-connect the harness, re-connect the injector, coil and harness and go to step 13.
•11. Ensure the fuel pump pressure lies between 3 - 4 bar (absolute) and also that it changes with engine load. If this gives a positive result then go to step 12. If the pressure is out of range then correct and go to step 13.
•12. Check to find out if the fault code for crankshaft position sensor has been recorded. If it has not then go to step 13. If it is faulty then correct and go to step 13.
•13. Clear the fault. Then in order to check if the fault code has been cleared perform the service drive cycle. If this gives a positive result then stop. If the fault is still present then go to step 14.
•14. Repeat the diagnostic procedure. If this now omits a positive result then stop.

Here's a couple threads to read up on....
https://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/x...re-code-40131/
https://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/x...3-p1316-11137/

 

Many thanks to you, Highhorse. I will check on the MAF, etc., in a few minutes. I will post what I find. Mike

 

Thank you, Graham, for the welcome and posting to this area. Working on her now.

 

Given that main codes are on one bank, left side, I would suggest you have lost timing. Probably because you have plastic secondary tensioners that have slipped. Don't start it again until you have confirmed third gen/metalic tensioners.

 

OK, so I swapped out the MAF sensor and it is still the same. No error codes, but she won't kick in. Going to do the diagnostics in the post from Highhorse. Baby steps. Really eager to get this resolved. Thanks to all. Mike

 

Is there both an MAF & MAP sensor on this car? I have changed the MAF, yet am getting conflicting info on the MAP sensor.....i.e., I just can't seem to find it. Thought it was on the bulkhead. Thanks. Mike

 

The knock sensors nor MAP (if it has one) will not cause the no start. The coils should be the same between two AJ 27 engines, which the MY 99 and 00 are, so that is not your problem.
You might want to get the schematic and begin troubleshooting with a test lamp. You should have +12 volts between the red/white wire and the black wire on each coil connector- ignition in run, running or not running. If not, check the ignition relay.

 

If you have a MAP, it will be located center back firewall above the throttle body, mounted on a piece of metal coming off the firewall with a vacuum hose going under and on to it from the throttle body and is about the size of a thumb drive.

 

Tensioners? Post #6

 

Yeah...BUT, the codes are not misfires, they are primary circuit failure. I say we have a differential diagnosis on that one.

 

+1
Did the previous owner(s) say why the car sat a year? Even if you get the car running, I'd still pull both valve covers off and check for plastic tensioners ASAP!

 

I agree ! BUT that is not why it is not running now

 

I do have to agree that by pulling the covers and attempting to align the flats of the cams, it should tell you if it is timing and it won't take all that long. Plus you will have a visual on the tensioners to determine plastic or not.
Ironically I have a new pair of secondary tensioners with bolts in plastic if needed. I will accept a reasonable offer before putting them in the Marketplace along with some other items.

 

Can anyone please tell me where the crankshaft position sensor is located on the 2000 XJ8L? One posting I read said that it is in the driver's side near the front of the engine, while another shows it to be located near the throttle bottle underneath. Would the crankshaft position sensor be located in the same place on the 1999 model XJ8L as well? I want to swap them out, as my understanding is that if this sensor is bad it will prevent the firing of the the spark plugs and will not show any faults on the OBD. Seems like it is worth a shot. Thanks again for all the help. Mike

 

I think this may help with some of your Q's.... JagRepair.com - Jaguar Repair Information Resource .....you can download the pdf's and have them handy.

 

Crank position sensor is located underneath the car at the bottom of the torque converter housing. Interested to see if a faulty one could cause such havoc.

 

Both of those cars have AJ27 engines, so, yes, they are in the exact same location at the lower edge of the frontmost part of the transmission case. If you are going to throw parts at it, and that would be a good one to try, but I think you would be better served by testing for spark on several of the cylinders. Pull the coil, insert a spare plug, ground the plug threads with a jumper wire, then crank and look for spark. Make sure you test one left and one right bank cylinder since that is where your codes led you.

It can be expensive and frustrating to throw parts rather than diagnose, but to each his own.

 

Status update. No spark. None whatsoever. Have replaced plugs, ignition coils....as mentioned in my previous post. Suggestions?