2001 Jaguar XJ8L
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Join Date: Apr 2012
Location: Summerville, South Carolina
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wrenchtwister - I've moved your post from the general tech help to the XJ (X308) section where members with the same model will be better able to assist you.
Also as this is your first post, when you have a moment, please stop by the New Member section New Member Area - Intro a MUST - Jaguar Forums - Jaguar Enthusiasts Forum and post an intro about yourself and the car. In turn you will receive a warm welcome and tips on navigating the forum.
regards,
Steve
Also as this is your first post, when you have a moment, please stop by the New Member section New Member Area - Intro a MUST - Jaguar Forums - Jaguar Enthusiasts Forum and post an intro about yourself and the car. In turn you will receive a warm welcome and tips on navigating the forum.
regards,
Steve
#4
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Maybe you realize the fittings for the fuel lines are the so called "quick disconnect" typr that are removed with a (cheap) tool available at most any auto parts, which slides in around the tube and releases some little fingers that hold th etube in place.
HOWEVER, knowing that still Makes yours a good question, because the lines are a PITA to get to on this car. BTW, get the cheap plastic tools, not the "upgrade matal ones that do not work as well on this application. It is hard to get to the tool to push it in while pulling the tubes, so I took a lenght of 3/8 inch steel tubing and cut a slit lengthwise so I coud wrap it around the use the steel tubing to push in the quick disconnect tool.
Since I have fairly large hands, even with the steel tube tool, getting the fittings loose is difficult. I now loosen the 6 mounting bolts securing the front of the rear subframe, then remove the rear mounting bolts and I lower the rear of the subframe about 6 inches. The work involved to do that is much less than the pain involved with getting your hands up in there, at least for me.
DO NOT try and do the job without removing the tubes. Some have tried and kinked the tubes. There are not a lot of good options for fixing that if it happens.
Good luck!
HOWEVER, knowing that still Makes yours a good question, because the lines are a PITA to get to on this car. BTW, get the cheap plastic tools, not the "upgrade matal ones that do not work as well on this application. It is hard to get to the tool to push it in while pulling the tubes, so I took a lenght of 3/8 inch steel tubing and cut a slit lengthwise so I coud wrap it around the use the steel tubing to push in the quick disconnect tool.
Since I have fairly large hands, even with the steel tube tool, getting the fittings loose is difficult. I now loosen the 6 mounting bolts securing the front of the rear subframe, then remove the rear mounting bolts and I lower the rear of the subframe about 6 inches. The work involved to do that is much less than the pain involved with getting your hands up in there, at least for me.
DO NOT try and do the job without removing the tubes. Some have tried and kinked the tubes. There are not a lot of good options for fixing that if it happens.
Good luck!
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motorcarman (05-25-2014)
#5
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If you do pull the tank forward enough to get at the EVAP flange for pump access, please don't whine about how the 'now damaged' lines are NLA or you can't find any in the salvage yards etc.
You have been warned.
There are hundreds of posts on this subject.
There are those that have cut a hole in the rear parcel shelf for access.
I replace several fuel pumps a year and I rarely have a problem with those lines, but I use a car lift to STAND under the car.
Lying under the car will probably be a little more difficult.
bob gauff
#6
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At first it looks impossible to get to the lines.
1. remove the rear tailpipe hangers
2. remove the 8 bolts/mounting plates on front diff
3. remove the two lower shock bolts
4. remove the two rear diff bolts to tubular bracket
5. slowly lower the rear diff assy you will now have room to get to the lines
You definitely want to take your time with these lines because they can be damaged easily, also while you have the main line disconnected it would be a good time to change the filter, leave the fuel filter line a little loose until you have the tank back in. this will help index the line for proper fit.
1. remove the rear tailpipe hangers
2. remove the 8 bolts/mounting plates on front diff
3. remove the two lower shock bolts
4. remove the two rear diff bolts to tubular bracket
5. slowly lower the rear diff assy you will now have room to get to the lines
You definitely want to take your time with these lines because they can be damaged easily, also while you have the main line disconnected it would be a good time to change the filter, leave the fuel filter line a little loose until you have the tank back in. this will help index the line for proper fit.
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