I hope the correct crankshaft holding tool was used to set the cam timing to 45oATDC or the cam flats will not line up.

 

Please don't get the impression these guys do not know what they are doing as we have used them in the past with great success. We just are not sold that the rings are bad on a car that has 70k on it. Thanks for everyone's input.

 

Since your left bank is now out of proper timing, of course the compression results on that bank will be different from the readings on the right bank. Not much point in doing the compression test with the camshafts (valves) out of timing.

 

I appreciate it. We just wanted to confirm that the tolerance is low for the camshafts to line up and there could be a possibility the valves could be out of sync. If the proper locks were used and the timing was confirmed there may be an issue of the engine getting off timing which is weird.

 

so the shop continues to state the timing is fine and it needs a new motor. We have not looked at it but still struggle to agree with them. we have already invested 1200 on what they have done. It seems the response you guys have given state since there is a bit of a gap there is a timing issue and not a ring issue. Does that sound about right? I am not sure what our next move will be, the car is in great shape otherwise and would be a nice ride if we can just get it going.

 

I think you need to start again from the beginning............

You state you had a broken timing chain......did a chain actually break, if so which chain broke? One of the primary chains (the long ones from the crankshaft) or one of the secondary ones (the shorter ones at the camshafts)

Did you purchase a complete timing chain tensioner kit complete with 4 new chains, 4 new guides, 4 new tensioners, gaskets etc. and remove the crankshaft harmonic balancer, front timing cover and replace all of these items?

Did you purchase the timing setting kit essential to timing the engine?



Does the car run right now, and if so how well or badly does it run?

Have you checked the current position of the camshafts-to-crankshaft timing....i.e. using the crankshaft positioning tool and the camshaft locating bars, do both camshaft flats line up correctly as per the shop manual?

Post answers to these questions so that we can try and find a solution to your problem.

CK

 

Based on your photo in #14, you are out of time on that bank. Redo it.

 

Quick question, how do you know if someone did the job but didn't stagger the sprocket teeth? Will it throw codes or run weird? I have a buddy looking at a 2000 XJ that recently had the chains done by a shop and no codes but it just runs weird. A vibration totally different than bad motor/trans mounts. I recommended against buying it.

 

the left bank secondary chain was the broken one. we did purchase new chains, tensioners guides and did replace all the items.................twice. the shop was the third time. the car will start but wont run, we have not had a chance to take a look at the position of the cams due to inclement weather but will take a visit to confirm. I am baffled by the fact they are telling us this is an acceptable variance and if they did everything correctly there should not be a variance at all right now.

 

The shop said they redid it again and still having compression issues. we have not had a chance to look at it yet but may next week and will update.

 

This is a reputable shop we have been using for years but this instance seems a bit strange. we did the job 2 times and something I may have not mentioned before is after the second time I started the car and it ran great for about 20 seconds at an idle then shut off and when restarted would run rough.

 

UPDATE. So we brought it to another shop and they were able to put it in timing and found a hole in the manifold which was replaced. it runs now which is great but getting a VVT code and misfires which are probably related so our plan of action is to change the oil since all we did when we were ready to start it for the first time was pour whatever we had leftover................seems legit. I do not have the specific code but will see if I can get it. we drove it around for 100 miles or so just to see how it drives............love it. if there are any other ideas to look at let me know.

BTW I was wondering if I can just get the bushings for the shock mounts instead of getting the shock mount. RA has the mounts for around 20 which is not bad but just wondering if I can just replace the bushings as they are deteriorating.
The code was P1396

 

You can purchase just the bushings but they are a pain to press in, plus will probably cost you more than the Rock Auto complete units. The RA units are an absolute bargain, and easy to install, it's the way to go.


.

 

UPDATE... So we changed the oil with 5w20 and put a quart of Lucas then drove around. it did not take long before the check engine light with the same code. So the plugs fouled out a while back when we could not get the timing correct. I was wondering if that could be one the problems. The error states bank b vvt where the broken timing chain was located. I was searching for some information on how to test the vvt solenoid but is a bit confusing. I can buy a new solenoid for it and replace but as much as I spent on this thing already spending another 60-100 is nothing. Looking for instructions on how to replace these without taking the engine apart...................

 

We are still struggling with the engine codes. The codes read P1384 VVT solenoid issue. Both solenoids have been replaced and still getting the error. The shop where it is at has confirmed timing, replaced the air intake hose....?? not sure why but we are still having issues. They are going to send the Computer readout to Jaguar and see if they can figure anything out. Any ideas?

 

The P1384 DTC is for the CIRCUIT. The part COULD be faulty OR the CIRCUIT could be faulty!

I had another repair shop call me about a VVT actuator fault.
They replaced the actuator. (no change)
They ran wires DIRECTLY from the ECM to the VVT actuator. (no change)

They dropped off the car at my shop and I checked the circuit/harness to verify integrity.(OK)
The actuator was checked. (OK)

I replace the ECM with a 'known-good' used ECM, setup the IMMOBILIZATION and 'TA-DA'! (no VVT DTC)

The output circuit INSIDE the ECM had FAILED!!!!!!

I might still have the old ECM with the VVT fault but the DTC would not 'CLEAR' no matter what car it was in.
I wrote the DTC on the ECM case and thew it in a box with other faulty/damaged modules.

 

Excellent, That is really the only thing left. I will start looking for a part number for a new one.

Thanks for the reply.

 

You need to check the circuit from the ECM to the VVT.
IF the harness checks OK, THEN you might condemn the ECM.

The ECM is NOT 'plug-and-play'!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

You WILL need an 'immobilization-setup' for the engine to run if a replacement module is installed.

The VCATS will determine the compatible replacement.

 

I am hoping that can be done at the shop................we hope. I have found different modules at different prices and you are correct it will need to be programmed. Is there a particular part number used for these?

 

vcats vcats