2001 XJ8 Shifting Issue
#1
![Default](/forum/images/icons/icon1.gif)
Hey Everybody,
I haven't posted on here in awhile since my car was driving like a dream for the last while!
However just recently the car is experiencing a strange shift at low speeds. If I drive below 15km/h there are no issues since the car remains in first, but when you go a little faster the car jolts when trying to shift into 2nd, after the jolt it drives fine. If you drive through first & second at very low speeds you will barely feel a thing. When you're on the highway at faster speeds there are absolutely no issues.
Any ideas? I took the car to Mr. Lube (I know..not the best place), just to see what they'd say, and they told me they couldn't even look at is, since the transmission is "sealed for life."
I had the transmission rebuilt about a year and a half ago for around $3,000. There is no warranty since we left on bad terms.
Low transmission fluid? Dirty filter? Any help would be greatly appreciated. I will try and record the issue including the rpm when it's trying to shift.
I haven't posted on here in awhile since my car was driving like a dream for the last while!
However just recently the car is experiencing a strange shift at low speeds. If I drive below 15km/h there are no issues since the car remains in first, but when you go a little faster the car jolts when trying to shift into 2nd, after the jolt it drives fine. If you drive through first & second at very low speeds you will barely feel a thing. When you're on the highway at faster speeds there are absolutely no issues.
Any ideas? I took the car to Mr. Lube (I know..not the best place), just to see what they'd say, and they told me they couldn't even look at is, since the transmission is "sealed for life."
I had the transmission rebuilt about a year and a half ago for around $3,000. There is no warranty since we left on bad terms.
Low transmission fluid? Dirty filter? Any help would be greatly appreciated. I will try and record the issue including the rpm when it's trying to shift.
#2
The following users liked this post:
holybananas (07-08-2014)
#3
![Default](/forum/images/icons/icon1.gif)
I don't believe it is the drum issue. Sounds more like the valve body developed a crack. If you notice that when you come to a stop, after sitting for about 30 seconds the car revs a little and then clunks into gear, the valve body is likely. If you notice the clunk going from P to D, revs high and then REALLY clunks into gear, it is the drum.
The problem is easy to differentiate, because the drum issue only happens from P to D, whereas the valve body crack is noticeable any time the car idles for 30 seconds at a stop.
Try both scenarios, let us know. (By the way, the drum issue should be fixed after a rebuild, the valve body is not normally replaced when you rebuild)
The problem is easy to differentiate, because the drum issue only happens from P to D, whereas the valve body crack is noticeable any time the car idles for 30 seconds at a stop.
Try both scenarios, let us know. (By the way, the drum issue should be fixed after a rebuild, the valve body is not normally replaced when you rebuild)
The following 3 users liked this post by margate69:
#4
![Default](/forum/images/icons/icon1.gif)
I don't believe it is the drum issue. Sounds more like the valve body developed a crack. If you notice that when you come to a stop, after sitting for about 30 seconds the car revs a little and then clunks into gear, the valve body is likely. If you notice the clunk going from P to D, revs high and then REALLY clunks into gear, it is the drum.
The problem is easy to differentiate, because the drum issue only happens from P to D, whereas the valve body crack is noticeable any time the car idles for 30 seconds at a stop.
Try both scenarios, let us know. (By the way, the drum issue should be fixed after a rebuild, the valve body is not normally replaced when you rebuild)
The problem is easy to differentiate, because the drum issue only happens from P to D, whereas the valve body crack is noticeable any time the car idles for 30 seconds at a stop.
Try both scenarios, let us know. (By the way, the drum issue should be fixed after a rebuild, the valve body is not normally replaced when you rebuild)
#5
Join Date: Feb 2014
Location: Crossroads of America
Posts: 19,609
Received 13,300 Likes
on
6,578 Posts
![Default](/forum/images/icons/icon1.gif)
I don't believe it's doing either of these. "Gearbox Failure" has come up twice in the last week causing the vehicle to go into limp mode. I instantly pulled over and turned off the vehicle both times. I started it back up and the gearbox failure message was gone but the odd shifting was still there like before.
Hi holybananas,
I assume your car has the ZF 5HP24 transmission. I don't know if that gearbox has any internal sensors that can trigger the dash warning lamp or Limp Home Mode. LHM is often caused by an electrical problem, and since the Transmission Control Module (TCM) and Engine Control Module (ECM) must work together to enable smooth gearshifts, it seems possible that an electrical problem is also causing your rough 1-2 shift (for example, if either the speed or torque signal from the ECM to the TCM is out of spec).
LHM can be caused by issues such as oil contamination of the Throttle Position Sensor (TPS) or its electrical connector, problems with the TCM (corrosion at its electrical connector or internally due to water ingress), corrosion on the ground used by the TCM (the EMS LH ground stud), contamination or looseness of the transmission or rotary switch electrical connectors, etc.
Perhaps another member will be able to provide additional information, especially in regard to whether a transmission internal mechanical fault can trigger the dash warning lamp or LHM on the X308.
Cheers,
Don
The following users liked this post:
holybananas (07-15-2014)
#6
#7
Trending Topics
#8
![Default](/forum/images/icons/icon1.gif)
I got the same issue. Gear Box Fault code 90732. Gear 2 ration incorrect. Still trying find an answer what it could be. My first trial is going to check the tranny fluid & filter. Im a pretty good hands on mechanic, no zip about tranny. Anybody have any suggestions on P0732 would be great
#9
![Default](/forum/images/icons/icon1.gif)
Here is what HelpForCars.net says about P0732
"Possible causes
- Low transmission fluid level
- Dirty transmission fluid
- Faulty Shift Solenoids
- Shift Solenoids harness is open or shorted
- Shift Solenoids circuit poot electrical connection
- Transmission mechanical problems
- Transmission hydraulic control circuit Help with this
Tech notes
Start by inspecting the transmission fluid level and condition, and change fluid if necessary.
Help with this
When is the code detected?
P0732 is detected when A/T cannot be shifted to the 2nd gear position even if electrical circuit is good.
Symptoms
- Engine Light ON (or Service Engine Soon Warning Light)
- Incorrect transmission shifting
P0732 Description
This diagnosis monitors actual gear position by checking the torque converter slip ratio calculated by Transmission Control Module (TCM) as follows:
Torque converter slip ratio = A x C/B
A: Output shaft revolution signal from revolution sensor
B: Engine speed signal from Engine Control Module (ECM)
C: Gear ratio determined as gear position which TCM supposes
If the actual gear position is higher than the position (2nd) supposed by TCM, the slip ratio will be more than normal. In case the ratio exceeds the specified value, TCM judges this diagnosis malfunction."
Maybe time to find another transmission shop to check the fluid level and make sure the solenoid is connected.
"Possible causes
- Low transmission fluid level
- Dirty transmission fluid
- Faulty Shift Solenoids
- Shift Solenoids harness is open or shorted
- Shift Solenoids circuit poot electrical connection
- Transmission mechanical problems
- Transmission hydraulic control circuit Help with this
Tech notes
Start by inspecting the transmission fluid level and condition, and change fluid if necessary.
Help with this
When is the code detected?
P0732 is detected when A/T cannot be shifted to the 2nd gear position even if electrical circuit is good.
Symptoms
- Engine Light ON (or Service Engine Soon Warning Light)
- Incorrect transmission shifting
P0732 Description
This diagnosis monitors actual gear position by checking the torque converter slip ratio calculated by Transmission Control Module (TCM) as follows:
Torque converter slip ratio = A x C/B
A: Output shaft revolution signal from revolution sensor
B: Engine speed signal from Engine Control Module (ECM)
C: Gear ratio determined as gear position which TCM supposes
If the actual gear position is higher than the position (2nd) supposed by TCM, the slip ratio will be more than normal. In case the ratio exceeds the specified value, TCM judges this diagnosis malfunction."
Maybe time to find another transmission shop to check the fluid level and make sure the solenoid is connected.
The following users liked this post:
Mr. Dusinovic (11-11-2014)
#10
![Default](/forum/images/icons/icon1.gif)
I don't believe you can legally refuse to honour a warranty because the client left on "bad terms". If they ever stated that the transmission has a warranty, on advertising material or whatever, you should have a case that it applies. Ask them to rebuild it again, for free, and if they refuse, take them to small claims court.
Fundamentally, they charged $3000 to rebuild your transmission, and it lasted a year and a half.
Fundamentally, they charged $3000 to rebuild your transmission, and it lasted a year and a half.
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
Currently Active Users Viewing This Thread: 1 (0 members and 1 guests)