Silly question, but since the P0705 code takes 2 consecutive drive cycles to manifest, does it take 2 consecutive drive cylces in repaired state to clear? I wouldn't think it would, but Jags are new to me and maybe there's a reason I'm unaware of why it might do that. I've been assuming when the system is reading itself properly, that it will clear, especially since I've been disconnecting the battery while working on it. Battery is another thing, would a voltage issue possibly cause this? Car starts just fine when I turn the key, but the battery itself is presently reading 11.6v, which is a couple volts short. I can certainly throw a charger on it and try again, but I'm assuming I'm not going to get a fault colde like this from low voltage...at least not without some other weird electrical faults manifesting. I haven't checked the voltage when running to confirm the alternator is putting out 14.4v yet, but I suppose I ought to add that to my list of things to check.

Last thing on my mind, can the car be started and run without the dual linear switch even connected? Or is this 1) goin g to result in a no start situation and 2) possibly damage some other circuits?

 

change that pilot bushing it will wick up and wreck your tcm

 

I'm sorry, but I don't know what bushing you're referring to.

 

New-to-me used parts should arrive tomorrow and I hope magically fix my problem...because that seems to be how some Jags work I guess?

Reconnected everything this evening, hooked the battery up and pulled codes, still have the DTC P0705 & P1646 (which I originally though was the O2 sensor and replaced same, only now I'm pretty sure its the secondary fuel pump, separate thread for that) and display still shows gearbox fault, restricted performance and high gearbox temp has returned, even when cold and off. Started the car to try a short drive, same thing...won't change gears, won't rev much past 3k (no surprises), shift lever didn't want to move to manual mode, drove it home after I got it warmed up and she's back in the garage. I checked the battery while running, getting a steady 13.6 volts, which is in a charging status, but its a tweech lower than the 14.2-14.4 I would normally expect to see on a running car with a good alternator...I've ready these cars are very voltage sensitive, but is 13.6v good?

Isn't it odd that the codes are still there after the battery was disconnected for more than a day?

Addicted2boost, I went to check the connector you mentioned and I wasn't able to locate it. I grabbed a couple photos, can you point me in the right direction please? I want to check and clean it and just eliminate as many variables as I can while I'm under the car anyway. Is it on the opposite side from that large metal fluid line and what looks like a banjo bolt right in front of the pan? Just noticed it in the photo I think. Might this address the high gearbox temp warning?

 

From your perspective, that arrow is pointing towards the passenger side a T25 or T30 Torx screw. Remove that screw and I believe you just pull down on the gray/silver fiberglass panel.

Different angle.

 

Perfect, thank you sir!

 

Well another day and still waiting on parts, so I crawled underneath and got at that trans cable. Took a bit of doing to get it off, but I eventually did and while I don't think it was all that dirty, I did spray both sides with some brake cleaner and let it air dry for awhile before reassembling. Just realized I didn't put any dielectric grease on, so I'll do that tomorrow or this weekend. Pics attached, hard to get a decent shot of the trans side of the connector without a boroscope, which I do not have. Looking at the female sockets, I need to do a much better job of cleaning than that.. Couldn't see it too well in the garage.

 

The opinions are 50-50 as to whether to use the dielectric grease on the pins of connectors or not. See the articles on the net and make your own conclusion. The name "dielectric" may be taken to mean improving conductivity of electrical contacts but the grease is actually an insulator. I would apply it only on the o-ring of the connector for better sealing.

 

The XJ8 shifter mechanism is over designed in my opinion. One of the many issues that some report is the circuit board not responding properly to gear shift placements. Cleaning the contacts is good advice and of course proper alignment during replacement.

 

Ids should display lever positions? If it does whit it you can see what gearbox module sees.

 

I don't know what the IDS is.

 

Starting to look like I might be scammed by the guy who sold me the gearshift assy on Facebook...trying to work through it, we'll see. So I might give the existing switch another disassembly and cleaning cycle to see if I get a more encouraging result...unless someone maybe has one for sale from an AJ27?

Looking for a way to bench test it and bench test the gearshift LED display board, anyone have any insight? I found a service bulletin from Jag that had the DL switch under a replacement campaign for people who were reporting what sounds like my exact issue in 2000MY cars, even though mine is a 2001 its a Sept 2000 build so maybe I got a leftover part. I'm sure this campaign must be decades over by now at Jag.

 

This info from Student Guide T201.

 

Thank you!

 

Motorcarman always knows where to find the best guides and information.

 

I studied all the TSBs issued so I could better use my time making money repairing cars at the dealer.
Lot's of good info and tips gained in those TSBs. (and the TECH TIPS news letters)

Paying attention at training seminars always helps. (and remembering where the info is in what literature)

 

The assistance is greatly appreciated.

So interestingly, I sent a nastygram to the part seller, impatient with the part I ordered with 2 day shipping still not being registered as having been delivered to USPS as of 9 days after I sent money, lo and behold! Suddenly my phone lights up with text messages that the package is at the post office and is in transit to this relay and that relay, etc. Should be waiting for me when i get home from work today so we'll see where this gets me.

I suspect something is misaligned in my existing shift mechanism and that the pin that s supposed to slide into the manual arm of the DL switch doesn't align properly anymore, reason unknown. When I have the gate off it pops in just fine, but with the gate on, it just doesn't happen smoothly at all...the action of trying to move from D to 4 is very much like trying to take it out of park without stepping on the brake pedal...it feels mechanically locked out. Figured hopefully the seller pulled the unit as a whole from the donor car and everything is still factory (or most recent service) aligned and all I need to do is drop the whole thing in and calibrate the cable and pray too all thats holy that the Gearbox Fault message vanishes as if by magic.

 

When I worked at the dealer we got a BUNCH of cars from auctions still in new car warranty.(lease returns?)
Many of them came to the dealer with broken plastic selector lever housings and BENT selector levers.

When the cars sat in the auction lots, the batteries would go DEAD and the park release wouldn't work.
The 'lot-jockeys' did not know about the plastic 'torx' screw in the lever 'illumination-module' to release the lock but they figured out that if you grab the lever and jerk it REALLY HARD into R or N, the plastic housing would break and release the lever.

Then they could roll the car into an area to get access to the battery.

I complained that this was NOT a warranty repair because of DELIBERATE damage but most were repaired in warranty.

If the selector lever housing is broken, you have your answer.
If it was repaired, it might have a bent lever that was overlooked and reinstalled in a new housing.

 

I know some “lot jockeys” that should have been fired! That just makes me angry. Too stupid to jump the car.

 

Crazy...they all have mechanical locks in the trunk lid, so all they need to do is pop the trunk and jump the car.

Willing to bet mine suffers from this sort of abuse, it did go to auction in 09. Here's hoping not only this is correct, but that the new part does NOT have the same problem. I'll know in a few hours or so.