This is a mystery car. After I got it I can see it’s been in a collision near the front. I let it sit waiting until the weather got better now I’m starting on it new battery and all I get is a click from under the dash near the Engine controller. First off I pulled the starter and bench tested it it works. Second I put a wrench on the front of the crank and it turns. I have a new battery in it. This thing has been worked on by a couple of different carpenters wood butchers. The shifting consul is halfway taken apart I’m getting a click because of the brake switch that’s operated inside the shifting mechanism but there’s a click under the dash on the passenger side that I think has to do with the engine controller. I do not hear the fuel pump either. I have checked all fuses and have power or boxes and has switched a few different relays any suggestions would be appreciated thanks

 

Never put the battery in backwards

The # 1 fuel pump will only run for 4 seconds with key rotation then turn off

This will charge the fuel lines that should hold for days

The # 1 fuel pump will turn on again for the duration of your drive with the CKPS seeing engine rotation

This is a crash / safety feature

There is a crash switch to reset on your right front passenger area by the right ankle

You will have to put your finger on the specific starter relay and feel for a click , too many other relays clicking at the same time

Green circle in the Pic

Your # 2 fuel pump will not turn on until 4000 RPM

Double click the picture for larger image

 

#2 primes the rail #1 runs with engine rotation

 

The car has no fuel at the Schrader valve. The car is on delay until I get a second key made for this thing next week sometime then have them both programmed I don’t think the keys are correct yet he didn’t know anything about it. And just handed me a single key. I am now taking it is not programmed to the car? This thing is heavily modified there’s a continuous fan when the key is on added to the box enclosure or the computers are ? It must’ve had a moisture problem at one time or heat? I will let you know when I get the key going thanks

 

See page 51

http://www.jagrepair.com/images/Auto.../jagxj2001.pdf

Check the large fuses and the large fuse terminal post nuts on the positive battery cable , seems to be a common thing on the X308

To get the starter relay to click closed you need 2 fuses

# 3 / 25 amp Engine Management fuse box , this fuse is direct battery hot at all times

# 5 /10 amp Engine Compartment fuse box , this is the control of the starter relay and it require the ignition positive relay to close in the engine compartment fuse box far inboard position , swapping option ?

The red circle in the picture above

You will see this on page 39 as 4 circle double hash on the right side of the print

On the X308 it is a chip key

Buuuuuuuuuuuut if you want to test the fuel pumps jumper the socket 3 to 5 with a blade connector heavy jumper wire

Note that the relay large power fuse is after the relay and not before







Buuuuuuuuuuuut If you want to test the starter the starterrelay is looking for a ground provided by the BPM with wire ( Green / Orange ) page 51

Buuuuuuuuuuuut the ignition switch for the starter is pin 1 to 5 and pin 5 on the car side of the connector is a car frame ground that may have been diturbed

The question is if you have a Key Transponder Module enable on your page 51 for full system operation

 

Thanks all Especially Parker 2 massive corrosion? It gives me a place to start I have a couple donor vehicles around here so I can get the spare parts I’m thinking this jaguar has been around some salt? As we do not use any salt in the northwest that I am aware of. These are the pics that I just took wow

 

unvented battery will do that

make sure you have the rubber vent line connected

 

Thanks I will check the rest of my cars. This car is a mystery I switch the ground cable because it had electrical arc bites and it like they had tried jumping it somehow wrong? Is there a way to tell if the fuses are bad or the ones that say mega on it? Or is it just a continuity test? When I get going on this I think I’m just going to replace cables off of another one Donor car? Supposed to get sunny and warm tomorrow which is better than gloomy and cold today ....This is definitely a step in the right direction

 

you can split the plastic cover of the fuse in half and check

 

If the battery was installed backwards ( or charged backwards ) at one time it will cause certain damage that you can overcome yourself

I did it to my X300 whish has a different wiring details but the main system layout is pretty much the same

On the X300 it fried the voltage regulator installed inside the alternator

It blew a couple of fuses that when replaced restored the specific component

To rebuild up your main electrical system you would rotate the key to the run position only before the start position



The small sized relays in the fuse boxes when you rock them in and out of there sockets must click closed

These are the relays you see on page 39

The fact that it may click closed getting the correct command directly from the ignition switch does not mean the relay is good . The power contacts inside the relays can be burnt limiting the current to flow though the power contacts

This can also be said of your 250 amp pair fuses as corrosion on the battery cable eyelets under the terminal nuts

Those large 259 amp terminal nut connections are critical on the X308

One thing to keep in mind about 1/2 of the fuses in the fuse box rely on the relay in the fuse box to close and the other 1 / 2 of the fuses are hot at all times with a direct battery connection

an example would be your fuel pump ( s ) and your security module which may need to be hard reset to perform it's logic correctly

 

I swapped out the two large fuses and added a new positive battery cable and then cleaned the heavily corroded one and put it back together still I get the same feature just a click from under the dash when the key is turns. I’m thinking it needs to go to the locksmith next week And see if the key Can’t talk to the car? And I’m not sure about the neutral safety switch thinking that they had this shifting column taken so apart?

 

At the BPM the key transponder sends a digital signal to the BPM , Hard to over ride by faking the signal

But the other inputs as they are final ground paths can be

The ignition switch provides a ground path to car frame at pin FC15 - 41

This is a momentary spring loaded switch position so it is not a solid contact on your meter

You will see the connector pin map on page 33 of your wiring guide

This pin map is for the module side of the connector so you have to use a mirror image

To orient the reverse image the # 1 pin is a red /white wire

Your shift column final input is a ground path in the neutral switch provided at pin FC15 - 7

While you are there look for power on pin FC15 - 80

With that verified you can put the shift column back together

 

The XJR is on the road again. It turned out the key was not programmed. I had to order one and have it made and then mailed to me because my locksmith here in town isn’t capable of cutting them but he can program them it required a second key to do the programming so when I bought the car it had one unprogrammed one and I had a second one cut and haul the car down there on a trailer and that was all it took. The old owner was sure that this was the key for the car he thought it just had a bad starter I did the same thing for another XJ8 the same day. Same thing exactly it started it has a bad fuel pump but still I wonder how common this is? Thanks everyone