2001 xjr still no heat
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The pump needs to be working -- you can't simple remove it. Same principle a secondary pump on a hot water system.
When he flushed what did the coolant look like? If nasty looking did he check flow through the core -- I believe the very early 01's still had the intermediate coolant - so you could have had a mismatch along the way.
When he flushed what did the coolant look like? If nasty looking did he check flow through the core -- I believe the very early 01's still had the intermediate coolant - so you could have had a mismatch along the way.
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Hey Northern Jag - sorry to read still trouble. Seems like you eliminated everything that I referred to on my answer to your other thread. I see a few more suggestions shared, worthwhile. I have been thinking and a very long shot might be a seized/clogged non-return valve in the heater matrix? There are 2 of them. I recently replaced one because cracked and leaking. I was amazed - in a negative way - how low quality this part appeared to be. While I have never heard this part being an issue for lacking heat (or in other words not allowing coolant flow to the core), just thought I would throw the idea out there.
Cheers
Cheers
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is there a way to get an ignition key not from the dealer.
I have seen keys on ebay, but where can the key get cut.
we believe that the heat issues are with the computer, as the car sat for half a year. Had a scope done today, he has to download the codes, as there is no jaguar dealer here I have to drive 8hrs to Winnipeg man, or 6hrs to mpls.
thanks
I have seen keys on ebay, but where can the key get cut.
we believe that the heat issues are with the computer, as the car sat for half a year. Had a scope done today, he has to download the codes, as there is no jaguar dealer here I have to drive 8hrs to Winnipeg man, or 6hrs to mpls.
thanks
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#9
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It is mostly likely the Aux heat pump or the solenoid valve. Having an extra one of each is handy for trouble shooting. You can connect them without taking anything apart and verify correct operation. If they are working correctly, the heater core may be blocked due to someone using radiator stop leak. Ebay is a great source of parts.
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Northern:
Are you sure that is what it is? The heater control valve opens (to heat) when it is powered off. It is therefore fairly easy to test. You pull the plug, and then blow through it to see if the ports are open. If so, don't power it and then see if you have water flow. The pump is known to wear out brushes. Again, easy to test- Is it running? It runs heat or no heat, I believe.
Then, does the heater matrix (core) flow when you blow through it? If not, then it is plugged. That is a real PITA to change on RHD cars, so maybe you can backflush it clear. I could on one car and could not on the other.
If you decide it is really the heater valve, call Coventry West for a price for a used valve. Or, there are about ten of them on ebay for less than a Ben Franklin (Oh, I forgot, you are up there- thats a $100 bill!)
Are you sure that is what it is? The heater control valve opens (to heat) when it is powered off. It is therefore fairly easy to test. You pull the plug, and then blow through it to see if the ports are open. If so, don't power it and then see if you have water flow. The pump is known to wear out brushes. Again, easy to test- Is it running? It runs heat or no heat, I believe.
Then, does the heater matrix (core) flow when you blow through it? If not, then it is plugged. That is a real PITA to change on RHD cars, so maybe you can backflush it clear. I could on one car and could not on the other.
If you decide it is really the heater valve, call Coventry West for a price for a used valve. Or, there are about ten of them on ebay for less than a Ben Franklin (Oh, I forgot, you are up there- thats a $100 bill!)
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