2002 Storage Prep
#1
2002 Storage Prep
Hello Everyone!
I'm getting ready to store my 2002 Jaguar XJ8 for the winter months and wanted to get some opinions about what action, if any, I need to take so the car will be OK when I bring it out again in six (6) months. The car has roughly 95,000 miles on it and it has always been pampered. It's like showroom condition. This was my daily driver for many years and now I only drive every few weeks. Due to my new XKR addition, this model will be parked outside under a weather-proof car cover.
I'm getting ready to store my 2002 Jaguar XJ8 for the winter months and wanted to get some opinions about what action, if any, I need to take so the car will be OK when I bring it out again in six (6) months. The car has roughly 95,000 miles on it and it has always been pampered. It's like showroom condition. This was my daily driver for many years and now I only drive every few weeks. Due to my new XKR addition, this model will be parked outside under a weather-proof car cover.
#2
My suggestions are as follows,
fill the tank with good fuel
overfill the tires to 40psi
trickle charger if possible, if not remove the battery and put it on a top-up charger.
Don't start it up until you're ready to use it, starting them in the cold is a bad idea and an oil change come spring - when the engine cools after running in sub zero temps, water condenses internally, you get mayonnaise oil and chance of rust/watermarks on surfaces - not good.
Mine's going into hibernation at the end of the month, I'll be doing this soon too.
fill the tank with good fuel
overfill the tires to 40psi
trickle charger if possible, if not remove the battery and put it on a top-up charger.
Don't start it up until you're ready to use it, starting them in the cold is a bad idea and an oil change come spring - when the engine cools after running in sub zero temps, water condenses internally, you get mayonnaise oil and chance of rust/watermarks on surfaces - not good.
Mine's going into hibernation at the end of the month, I'll be doing this soon too.
The following users liked this post:
Jsnyder0828 (09-27-2013)
#4
If you're leaving it outside, presumably open to some degree to the elements, I'm not sure on the car cover?
Car cover, wind, dust, wind, dust = scratches to the paintwork.
How about some of these dessicant gel packs in the interior to ansorb any moisture and help to prevent mildew / mold etc?
Just a thought.
The following users liked this post:
Jsnyder0828 (10-02-2013)
#5
I agree with Jimc64,
Car covers usually cause more damage than protection.
You can get those desicant tubs which collect any moisture in the bottom of them.
Here's my list of To do's.
*Wash car and vac interior, then place dessicant ciontainers one front one rear.
*Give the car body a good coat of wax polish.
*Spray electronic cleaner lubricant on all bare electrical connections in both the boot/trunk
and under the bonnet/hood...as many connectors as you can find.
*Preferably change engine oil and filter, it's much better to store an engine with fresh oil.
This is a well known aircraft storage practice.
*Check all fluids.
*If the coolant is due to be changed do it, otherwise check level .
*Apart from filling the fuel tank to the brim, also add a couple of bottles of fuel stabiliser.
If you are going to leave the car 'hybernating' for longer than three months, modern fuels start to 'go off' and the fuel stabiliser helps prevent this and any 'gumming' problems to fuel pump and injectors.
*Then run engine up to temp and operate all heater controls and air-con...finishing by closing off circulation to Recyc and heat on full.
*Wind down all windows and lubricate all the glass runners with silicon....pay particular attention to the rubber wipe at the base of the window.
Same applies to sun roof mechanism.
*Clean all the door and trunk rubbers and lightly coat them with Vaseline.
This will help protect them and help prevent ice sticking them to body apertures.
*Gaffer tape around all the door openings, leaving the bottom open.
*Run gaffer tape around boot/trunk and hood shut lines,
*Gaffer tape a plastic covering over both the grille and lower grilles to keep out snow and the elements.
*Fold your mirrors in and tape plastic bags over them.
*Unhook the wiper blade and place on drivers seat.
*Gaffer tape all the plastic scuttle at the base of the windscreen...this will prevent a build of crap and unecessary moisture getting in here.
*Also tape up the ends of the exhaust pipes for the same reason.
*Over pressure tyres to 40-45psi.
*If you know the car does not need to be moved from it's location, it's better to place axle stands or large blocks of wood under all four axles, taking the weight off the wheels.
*It's far better to remove battery from car and keep inside house at room temp. on a trickle or preferably an automatic charger.
The fact that the car is going to be outside in one of your Winters means it really needs this extra attention...especially coating with a good quality wax...twice if necessary.
There, your car will be ready to fire up when it comes out of hibernation.
*Replace battery after making sure the area is clean and cables are clean, along with battery posts.
Hook up, positive followed by negative...install radio code (if you need one).
Coat the battery cionnections with di-electric grease.
*When starting for the first time, don't touch the throttle, just turn key on and let the systems energise.
All lights extinguished, hold to start untill engine catches and let it run up to temp without touching throttle.
Don't be too concerned about a few rattles....you would too after three-six months ;o)=)
You will hear when the oil pressurises.
*Cycle gear lever through all positions at five second intervals and back to park.
Now you can increase revs.
*If everything checks out....icluding air/con and all climate controls, windows, sunroof (open and clean rubber seal with silicon).
*Open all doors and wipe off vaseline and finish off with silicon...they should feel like a dog's wet nose ;o)
*Deflate tyres to 32 front and 34 rear...remembering to remove blocks if you fitted them )
*Replace wiper blade....preferably with a new insert, check all fluid levels.
*REMEMBER to untape all orrifices!
Including exhausts!
Now, you shouild be ready for an extended drive to rid the car's body work and under chassis of moisture and bring all the fluids up to working temp.
This proceedure has worked for me over many years and different cars.....go for it! ;o]
Car covers usually cause more damage than protection.
You can get those desicant tubs which collect any moisture in the bottom of them.
Here's my list of To do's.
*Wash car and vac interior, then place dessicant ciontainers one front one rear.
*Give the car body a good coat of wax polish.
*Spray electronic cleaner lubricant on all bare electrical connections in both the boot/trunk
and under the bonnet/hood...as many connectors as you can find.
*Preferably change engine oil and filter, it's much better to store an engine with fresh oil.
This is a well known aircraft storage practice.
*Check all fluids.
*If the coolant is due to be changed do it, otherwise check level .
*Apart from filling the fuel tank to the brim, also add a couple of bottles of fuel stabiliser.
If you are going to leave the car 'hybernating' for longer than three months, modern fuels start to 'go off' and the fuel stabiliser helps prevent this and any 'gumming' problems to fuel pump and injectors.
*Then run engine up to temp and operate all heater controls and air-con...finishing by closing off circulation to Recyc and heat on full.
*Wind down all windows and lubricate all the glass runners with silicon....pay particular attention to the rubber wipe at the base of the window.
Same applies to sun roof mechanism.
*Clean all the door and trunk rubbers and lightly coat them with Vaseline.
This will help protect them and help prevent ice sticking them to body apertures.
*Gaffer tape around all the door openings, leaving the bottom open.
*Run gaffer tape around boot/trunk and hood shut lines,
*Gaffer tape a plastic covering over both the grille and lower grilles to keep out snow and the elements.
*Fold your mirrors in and tape plastic bags over them.
*Unhook the wiper blade and place on drivers seat.
*Gaffer tape all the plastic scuttle at the base of the windscreen...this will prevent a build of crap and unecessary moisture getting in here.
*Also tape up the ends of the exhaust pipes for the same reason.
*Over pressure tyres to 40-45psi.
*If you know the car does not need to be moved from it's location, it's better to place axle stands or large blocks of wood under all four axles, taking the weight off the wheels.
*It's far better to remove battery from car and keep inside house at room temp. on a trickle or preferably an automatic charger.
The fact that the car is going to be outside in one of your Winters means it really needs this extra attention...especially coating with a good quality wax...twice if necessary.
There, your car will be ready to fire up when it comes out of hibernation.
*Replace battery after making sure the area is clean and cables are clean, along with battery posts.
Hook up, positive followed by negative...install radio code (if you need one).
Coat the battery cionnections with di-electric grease.
*When starting for the first time, don't touch the throttle, just turn key on and let the systems energise.
All lights extinguished, hold to start untill engine catches and let it run up to temp without touching throttle.
Don't be too concerned about a few rattles....you would too after three-six months ;o)=)
You will hear when the oil pressurises.
*Cycle gear lever through all positions at five second intervals and back to park.
Now you can increase revs.
*If everything checks out....icluding air/con and all climate controls, windows, sunroof (open and clean rubber seal with silicon).
*Open all doors and wipe off vaseline and finish off with silicon...they should feel like a dog's wet nose ;o)
*Deflate tyres to 32 front and 34 rear...remembering to remove blocks if you fitted them )
*Replace wiper blade....preferably with a new insert, check all fluid levels.
*REMEMBER to untape all orrifices!
Including exhausts!
Now, you shouild be ready for an extended drive to rid the car's body work and under chassis of moisture and bring all the fluids up to working temp.
This proceedure has worked for me over many years and different cars.....go for it! ;o]
Last edited by xjay8; 09-27-2013 at 09:46 PM.
The following 2 users liked this post by xjay8:
Jhartz (09-28-2013),
Jsnyder0828 (09-27-2013)
#8
My suggestions are as follows,
fill the tank with good fuel
overfill the tires to 40psi
trickle charger if possible, if not remove the battery and put it on a top-up charger.
Don't start it up until you're ready to use it, starting them in the cold is a bad idea and an oil change come spring - when the engine cools after running in sub zero temps, water condenses internally, you get mayonnaise oil and chance of rust/watermarks on surfaces - not good.
Mine's going into hibernation at the end of the month, I'll be doing this soon too.
fill the tank with good fuel
overfill the tires to 40psi
trickle charger if possible, if not remove the battery and put it on a top-up charger.
Don't start it up until you're ready to use it, starting them in the cold is a bad idea and an oil change come spring - when the engine cools after running in sub zero temps, water condenses internally, you get mayonnaise oil and chance of rust/watermarks on surfaces - not good.
Mine's going into hibernation at the end of the month, I'll be doing this soon too.
Don't put it up on blocks or any means that allows the wheels to dangle- that's extremely hard and destructive to the suspension bushings.
Try find a storage location with as constant a temperature and as low a humidity as possible.
The following users liked this post:
Jsnyder0828 (09-28-2013)
#10
The following users liked this post:
Jsnyder0828 (10-02-2013)
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