2002 XJR consistent cylinder 1,2,3,4 misfire codes
#1
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Hello all. I've been reading posts all afternoon and it's time to ask for some help. In four different trials I am consistently getting P0300, P0301, P0302, P0303, P0304 codes. I start the car and there is a hard ticking noise heard from the engine intermittently and at 1 minute "restricted performance". Here's a video of this performance. https://vimeo.com/187911683/c16743102b
This is a 2002 XJR (127k miles / VIN MF41384) and I found some advice that might apply.
there are really only two issues that will affect one bank only: Bad O2 sensor and exhaust cam timing.
A guess is that the ECM is trying to drive the throttle body lean to compensate for the Bank 1 rich condition which might explain the Bank 2 lean code.
I would start with pulling the bank 1 valve cover to check for cam alignment and tensioner condition. While there replace the tensioners if they are plastic. I don't know about the 3.2L engine but on the 4.0L the alignment is correct if the cam flats are almost in align but tilted to the center slightly. If found out of align it would be best to not start the engine again as you have jumped one sprocket tooth and survived. Jump another one and destroy the engine.
I recorded the OBDII port with my scanner and have placed the report here.
Questions -
- Is my O2 sensor bad?
- Could my exhaust cam timing really be off?
- Are my cylinders numbered like the left pic below or the right?
Thanks in advance. -Bill
This is a 2002 XJR (127k miles / VIN MF41384) and I found some advice that might apply.
there are really only two issues that will affect one bank only: Bad O2 sensor and exhaust cam timing.
A guess is that the ECM is trying to drive the throttle body lean to compensate for the Bank 1 rich condition which might explain the Bank 2 lean code.
I would start with pulling the bank 1 valve cover to check for cam alignment and tensioner condition. While there replace the tensioners if they are plastic. I don't know about the 3.2L engine but on the 4.0L the alignment is correct if the cam flats are almost in align but tilted to the center slightly. If found out of align it would be best to not start the engine again as you have jumped one sprocket tooth and survived. Jump another one and destroy the engine.
I recorded the OBDII port with my scanner and have placed the report here.
Questions -
- Is my O2 sensor bad?
- Could my exhaust cam timing really be off?
- Are my cylinders numbered like the left pic below or the right?
Thanks in advance. -Bill
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#2
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The blinking check engine light is, I'm pretty sure, is what you say, the misses and ECM trying to work out the fuel flow.
My first thoughts are tensioners, guides and chains, I would not run the car again until you can determine this or you can do more damage. Taking off the valve cover and checking those would be my first point of this venture. Its quick and tells you a lot and doesn't require a lot of time. Also, since your there, I'd do a compression check. Be sure to check your plugs for gap and fouling since your showing the misfires.
My first thoughts are tensioners, guides and chains, I would not run the car again until you can determine this or you can do more damage. Taking off the valve cover and checking those would be my first point of this venture. Its quick and tells you a lot and doesn't require a lot of time. Also, since your there, I'd do a compression check. Be sure to check your plugs for gap and fouling since your showing the misfires.
Last edited by Highhorse; 10-18-2016 at 09:17 PM.
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pricebill (10-18-2016)
#3
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@Highhorse. Thanks. I'll pull the valve cover off in the morning. Am I correct in thinking that needs to be the Bank 1 valve cover (as indicated in the pic of cylinder numbers I posted?) Does my VIN indicate below a 2002.5 or above?
(I cannot believe I have an above 2002.5 engine because what are the odds I would have consistent #1 through #4 cylinder misfire ACROSS from each other on two different banks of cylinders. That would be insane.)
Did anyone happen to read the PDF of my scanner record? I'm not sure how to read if the O2 sensors are working.
Thanks. -B
(I cannot believe I have an above 2002.5 engine because what are the odds I would have consistent #1 through #4 cylinder misfire ACROSS from each other on two different banks of cylinders. That would be insane.)
Did anyone happen to read the PDF of my scanner record? I'm not sure how to read if the O2 sensors are working.
Thanks. -B
#4
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I'm not thinking you would get those problem with a failed O2 ... and the car would give you a failed O2 code.
The blinking CEL indicates (in all vehicles) that the misfire is bad enough to cause unburned gasoline to be flowing to the cats ... you don't want this as the gas will ignite in the cats .. raising the temps enough to destroy the internals. Never run a car with a blinking CEL.
Due to the common tensioner issue -- any sounds must be investigated with a valve cover removal. You make have lost a tensioner - and the chain loose enough for it to have skipped a tooth.
The blinking CEL indicates (in all vehicles) that the misfire is bad enough to cause unburned gasoline to be flowing to the cats ... you don't want this as the gas will ignite in the cats .. raising the temps enough to destroy the internals. Never run a car with a blinking CEL.
Due to the common tensioner issue -- any sounds must be investigated with a valve cover removal. You make have lost a tensioner - and the chain loose enough for it to have skipped a tooth.
#7
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#8
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Don't believe you can have any safe zone with an interference engine. At some place the top of one of the pistons hit a valve ... they don't take kindly to that.
Used heads are available -- it's a question of piston damage. Do you have a good independent?
Price out the best possible situation -- that will give you a starting point. If the car is not worth that expense .. it's time to look elsewhere.
At least this is another indication of the incorrect theory of the 9/01 changeover to metal vs later update of plastic.
Used heads are available -- it's a question of piston damage. Do you have a good independent?
Price out the best possible situation -- that will give you a starting point. If the car is not worth that expense .. it's time to look elsewhere.
At least this is another indication of the incorrect theory of the 9/01 changeover to metal vs later update of plastic.
#10
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You can also use an inspection camera through the spark plug openings --
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pricebill (10-19-2016)
#11
#12
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Remove the exhaust cam and perform a compression test. I have a 1999 XJ8L that I bought for $500. One of the secondary chains broke and the owner did NOT want the car anymore.
I pulled the exhaust cam and performed a compression test. I got low readings but NOT ZERO.
I replaced ALL timing chains, guides, tensioners.
The engine is still running normally 5 years later.
The exhaust cam can stop in a safe place and NOT bend valves. This usually happens at a low RPM (idle).
When I worked at the dealer I found that the odds of bending valves when the secondary chain broke is about 50/50.
The intake cam does NOT stop rotating so you only have the exhaust cam stopped to worry about. It CAN stop in a HAPPY PLACE.
Diagnose before you start throwing parts at a car!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
Don't blindly start repairing things that are not broken!!!!
When a light bulb burns out in my bathroom I don't rewire the house!!!!
Work from the simple end toward the disaster. (it might be simple)
bob
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pricebill (10-20-2016)
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pricebill (10-21-2016)
#17
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I pulled the exhaust cam and executed a dry compression test on all four cylinders. About 130 across all four. I felt so encouraged by these numbers I machined two pieces of 1" square metal bar to provide cam lock once I position the engine at TDC. Now all I need is a couple of metal tensioners and at least ONE replacement chain.
I purchased a kit via eBay and it arrives in the morning. Here's a link.
JAGUAR V8 2001-2009, UPPER SECONDARY "UPDATED" TIMING CHAIN TENSIONERS w/CHAINS | eBay
It goes together like a bicycle chain around the secondary gears. I can't imagine anything more ridiculous to keep this engine running forever but certainly good enough to determine if I'm the owner of a grenade.
Here is my plan; please assassinate at will.
- Hand rotate engine to TDC. Bolt on (homemade) cam locking tool on left bank.
- Bolt on (homemade) cam locking tool on right bank with care.
- Install new tensioner on right. Leave pin in.
- Do everything above but now on the left. Pull pins to have the tensioners take up the slack on secondary timing chains.
- Hand rotate engine to see if I have done everything really wrong and stupid.
Did I?
I purchased a kit via eBay and it arrives in the morning. Here's a link.
JAGUAR V8 2001-2009, UPPER SECONDARY "UPDATED" TIMING CHAIN TENSIONERS w/CHAINS | eBay
It goes together like a bicycle chain around the secondary gears. I can't imagine anything more ridiculous to keep this engine running forever but certainly good enough to determine if I'm the owner of a grenade.
Here is my plan; please assassinate at will.
- Hand rotate engine to TDC. Bolt on (homemade) cam locking tool on left bank.
- Bolt on (homemade) cam locking tool on right bank with care.
- Install new tensioner on right. Leave pin in.
- Do everything above but now on the left. Pull pins to have the tensioners take up the slack on secondary timing chains.
- Hand rotate engine to see if I have done everything really wrong and stupid.
Did I?
Last edited by pricebill; 10-21-2016 at 10:39 PM.
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motorcarman (10-22-2016)
#19
#20
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I suppose I should have indicated I will be following this set of instructions (Tmingi chain and tensioner replacement).