I need some help to decide whether to keep or sell my 2003 VDP with 125,000 miles here in NJ. Second one I've owned since 2005 and I LOVE the car but.........several problems currently exist:

Both Knock Sensors need to be replaced, likely damaged by leaking Thermostat housing (Where do I get the lower cost replacement sensors? I've seen posts long ago mentioning a different model year with longer wires that work at a significantly lower cost)
Thermostat housing is leaking and needs to be replaced
AC just quit all of a sudden and only blows warm air
Rubber shock bushings are all dried out under the hood and are powdery
Remote side view mirror controls are operating intermittently and sometimes the left button controls the right mirror and others not at all

Body and interior are near mint other than center front armrest pad that is worn. It's had fairly regular service with significant expense over the years and when it is running it runs real well.

I intend to do the knock sensors and therm tower replacement my self.

What do you all think? Is mileage too high already and these problems are just the beginning of an endless string of repairs? SImple fixes relatively inexpensive to do my self?

Thanks. I hate to give up on this ride. I love it, everyone comments on it when we go out, and I can't find another low mileage one to move onto anylonger.

Jeff

 

Since you said it’s a VDP I’m assuming it’s not supercharged. The knock sensors are easy to replace on the naturally aspirated models. I know what you mean on the longer wire KS being cheaper but I don’t have the part number.

The plastic thermostat housing can be tricky. Depending on your skills, it may be easier to pull the intake manifold.

The determining factor of you asking if the mileage is to high. That factor to me is if you had the main pressure regulator valve replaced in your transmissions valve body. If not, you need to price out that whole job first. There are many threads about that and just perform a search. The front upper shock mounts are cheap and easy to replace as there are aftermarket ones available.

 

The best price on knock sensors I know of right now are at Rock auto (SU7015) for $66.79

As per addicted2boost, the thermostat tower can be a bear to replace, but easy to do if the intake manifold is removed, and while the intake manifold is removed you can replace the two heater hoses (and 3-way connector) that eventually leak.

The pressure relief valve referred to is the Transgo valve, costs around $50 bucks, and around $200-$300 to install at a reputable transmission shop.......and you get a full trans fluid change into the bargain.

And once again to quote addited2boost, the front shock mounts are super cheap and easy to replace. Rock Auto has them for around $25 bucks a side.

Have the center arm rest recovered at a upholstery shop.

Get the AC fixed.

Mirror problem most likely a simple electrical/switch problem.

For less than $1,000 you should have everything fixed, the alternative will be to find a replacement used vehicle costing many 1,000s of dollars with unknown problems. Or you could buy a new Jag for around $120,000.

.

 

I forgot to address the A/C. All of a sudden inop condition could be an A/C compressor clutch relay. Check for a blown fuse first. If that’s ok then I’d locate the clutch relay, remove the brown relay cover with a couple small flathead screwdrivers and you can disengage the springy arm and check to see if the contacts are burned up. Sometimes they can be cleaned and reinstalled or you could swap that relay for another unimportant relay such as the fog light relay and test it out. If still nothing, I’ve seen the high pressure switch next to the ABS module go bad. Unplug it to see if there’s any oily residue. It’s also possible you slowly lost Freon until there’s not enough in the system to satisfy the pressure switch to engage the compressor.

 

From memory: the knock sensor for the old X Type works at much lower price (longer pigtail - just roll it up); betting on the AC problem being the pressure switch (look for green gunk - if so, blown); lots of threads on replacing the TST and tower. If you are lucky, you will not have to raise the manifold (some assemblers used too long bolts at the rear), but break out the old tower unless it is a later metal one; follow CK's guidance on transmission switch. KEEP THE CAR: nothing out there for under $5000 as nice, as reliable, as fast or as comfortable -- but parts are getting harder to find. My two cents

 

You said you love it.
Question answered!

If you love it, show her some love she deserves.

The time to stop fixing her is when you don’t love her anymore!

 

Thanks. I'm fairly advanced with the mechanicals having rebuilt a few engines and restored several classic cars. Just really avoided the modern day machines due to all of the technology and related specialty tools needed. Never wanted to make that jump. Now retired though, I have the time, and less income, so taking on some of these Jag repairs makes sense IF I KNOW WHAT TO DO .......so thank you thank you thank you for the advice.....

 

Sooooooo how big of a job is it to remove the intake manifold and replace it? I see lots of parts I am not sure what they are for sitting there.....are the fuel rails an issue? anything that needs to be bled afterwards if removed? Obviously new intake manifold gaskets are needed and thats no big deal, love the idea of changing out the other hoses while in there too. Anything else to watch out for if pulling the manifold?

 

https://www.docdroid.net/yUGg4Gg/jag...s-manifold.pdf

 

Re the main pressure regulation valve upgrade for the ZF5HP24: replacing that valve, checking to be sure the old valve had not cause damage elsewhere in the valve blocks, changing fluid, replacing the filter proactively and a test drive on my 30k mile '03 VDP ran about $900. The quotes from the one highly recommended transmission shop in my VA county outside of DC and from a local Jag-only shop for identical work were within pennies of each other! I regarded it as worth it for the peace of mind.

(Thanks Addicted2Boost for the guidance. FYI, I did mention the low-frequency hum issue to the tranny shop as I didn't want any subsequent surprises. The shop owner said they could hear the noise in testing but the noise was not coming from the transmission in their opinion. He thought it might be a U-joint issue affected by loading/unloading the drive line. ... the search continues. I am posing the question to the Jag-only shop which gets the car Tuesday to solve a check engine light (p0171/0174 lean both sides) issue.

 

One thing I have learned about knock sensors on my 2002 XJR is that they don't like to get wet.
Before you replace them, fix your coolant leak and flush the area around the sensors with clean water to remove any coolant residue. Start the car and let it get warm without driving it so the water evaporates.
When the water starts boiling off, the knock sensors pick up the boiling as preignition and retard the timing. Once the water has evaporated the sensors should behave themselves.

 

Thanks everybody! All the parts have been ordered to change the knock sensors, replace the therm tower with an aluminum one to fix the leak, hoses to replace while I have the intake manifold off, new wiper blade, air cleaner, intake gaskets, throttle body gasket, reservoir feed/return tubes, front shocks and shock towers, and a replacement arm rest leather cover kit. The pdf that "Carnival Kid" posted is amazing. I will give an update once the parts all arrive and I am finished. Let me know if there is anything else I should do while having all of this apart........Jeff

 

Well I made huge progress today in removing the Intake Manifold and tomorrow off comes the original Thermostat Tower and old heater hoses, and knock sensors. Most of the new parts have come in already with just a couple coming in this week. Couple of things though:

1. I broke the snap-on tabs on one of the electrical connectors on the back of the Throttle Body. The connection is still very snug, but what do I do about having broken both of the tabs?
2. I broke the vacuum tube that runs from the Throttle Body to the Brake Booster. I imagine this part is available from SNG or RockAuto, but how do you detach it from the booster? Do the brakes have to be bled afterwards?
3. The throttle body is real dirty with fuel build-up, and the intake ports on the engine are VERY VERY black soot coated as are the ports on the Intake Manifold. I will clean this somewhat being careful not to let stuff fall into the engine. But what is causing this? Too rich fuel mix? how do I correct it?
4. While this is all apart, should I replace the fuel injectors? If yes, just order the standard injectors from SNG? Or is there something better I should do?

Thanks guys......so far so good I'd say even with the two breaks......

Jeff

 

jawvpd, As you have found out, the brake booster hose (MNC5910BE), is listed as "no longer available", but strangely it is available as MNC5910BG, (listed for LHD cars). But is is pricey at around $160- $190 depending where you look. Not sure why it is so expensive as the other similar hoses are available for around $30 bucks.

The brake booster line (item #11) pushes snugly into the brake booster (seal marked as item #12). This line is vacuum only and nothing to do with brake hydraulics and no brake bleeding is necessary.

You may want to keep your questions regarding this project in one post, you have several posts started now, all relating to this same project, it will just confuse the issue as not everyone will be aware of your current "status" with the project and there will be a lot of back and forth and duplicated answers to similar questions.

 

Wow.....great help and guidance. THANK YOU. One more.......I know there are 2 banks each with their own Knock Sensors. But are these 2 knock sensors different between the banks? I am replacing mine and simply ordered a quantity of 2, not seeing an indication that there is a left and a right knock sensor. And then on Parts Geek today I see them mentioning a right and left knock sensor each with different part numbers.

Jeff

 

The knock sensors are "universal", no left or right. Not sure why Parts Geek lists them under different part numbers.

Clean the sensor posts if they are dirty/corroded.

 

Sorry for vanishing guys........had a service guy at the house back and drive over the pumping station for our septic and break the electrical conduits and vent pipes and drive away like it never happened. Fast forward to tomorrow when it will hopefully all get fixed and paid by him.....after we saw it all on our security cameras! So the Jag work had to wait a little.

Below are a few pictures of what you all helped get me confident to tackle. First time I ever even turned a wrench for anything on my Jag. I have rebuilt engines and several vintage american cars over the past 40 years so not afraid of the mechanicals. Just concerned about knowing how to handle much of the modern day stuff. So thank you! Saving me about $2,000 in labor charges for sure here in NJ.

First photo simply shows almost all of the parts of I removed to tackle the work

Second photo shows most all of the new parts I've received so far to replace still have two key parts on backorder.....

Third party shows my 110,000 mile engine compartment disassembled waiting for all the new goodies.

Forth photo shows the thin metal throttle body gasket I cant get quickly as it's on backorder. Starting to consider reusing the old one, but really not sure if that is wise or not.

Anybody have the torgque specs for the parts I removed? Thermostat tower, thermostat housing, Crossover pipe, Throttle Body to intake manifold, throttle body to intake manifold, intake manifold to engine block, shock upper towers, Knock Sensor nuts? is there a chart that has all of these torque specs on it?

Thanks again

 

I got these from the shop manual, they have a chart of all torque specs in the beginning of each section. You should be able to find a PDF download for free or cheap, someone on here has a link I'm sure.

Thermostat tower - 10-14nm
Thermostat housing - 8-10nm
Crossover pipe - 10-14nm
Throttle Body to elbow - 18-24nm
Throttle body elbow to intake manifold - 20-22nm
Throttle body intake elbow support bracket - 18-22nm
Intake manifold to engine block - 20-22nm
Shock upper towers nut to shock -30-40nm
Shock upper towers to body - unsure about this one, couldn't find it listed but I have always tightened to 30nm
Shock lower bolt/nut - 43-57nm
Knock Sensor nuts - 31-41nm

 

http://www.mediafire.com/file/bu2w7j...anual.pdf/file

.

 

wow wow wow and THANK YOU! I will definitely look for that document. This is such a huge help.