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After my friend helped diagnose bad fuel pumps by jumping relays(?) and tested the pumps once we took em out. I replace them. turned the key a couple times to prime but i could not hear the pumps. how do i jump relay to see if the pump will work manually? I only put 5L of gas in the tank, is that enough? the schrader valve is located under the supercharger and i can’t get a pressure gauge on there. if i press the middle pin with a screw driver it should spit out fuel right? also there is a white connector on the wire harness beside the cd changer in the trunk i don’t see any plug for it. any ideas? Thanks!
When you pull the fuel pump relays just poke a wire in between the two bigger terminals to short them manually.
As to that connector, have you got sat nav? cause if not it could be that, the factory nav has a DVD drive the size of the CD changer mounted above it.
When you pull the fuel pump relays just poke a wire in between the two bigger terminals to short them manually.
As to that connector, have you got sat nav? cause if not it could be that, the factory nav has a DVD drive the size of the CD changer mounted above it.
okay thanks i’ll try it out and ya i do i’ll check around it for the connector
As far as I know, there are no bigger terminals on the fuel pump relays, all are same size. To run the pumps, you should jump the sockets shown in red on the sketch below. There is no need to switch the ignition "on" for this test. I found that listening at the open filler neck (flap pushed down) is a good way to hear the pumps running.
As far as I know, there are no bigger terminals on the fuel pump relays, all are same size. To run the pumps, you should jump the sockets shown in red on the sketch below. There is no need to switch the ignition "on" for this test. I found that listening at the open filler neck (flap pushed down) is a good way to hear the pumps running.
Originally Posted by Hooli
When you pull the fuel pump relays just poke a wire in between the two bigger terminals to short them manually.
As to that connector, have you got sat nav? cause if not it could be that, the factory nav has a DVD drive the size of the CD changer mounted above it.
How do i test the connector at the top of fuel pump? which wires? gonna test the relay now.
You pull both fuel pump relays out and put a jumper wire into the sockets (one fuel pump at a time) where M marked them in red. Do not insert key in ignition. Make sure the connector on top of the tank is plugged in first before doing the jumper wire.
The 4 fat wires of the 6 pin connector are for the pumps.
You pull both fuel pump relays out and put a jumper wire into the sockets (one fuel pump at a time) where M marked them in red. Do not insert key in ignition. Make sure the connector on top of the tank is plugged in first before doing the jumper wire.
The 4 fat wires of the 6 pin connector are for the pumps.
Originally Posted by M. Stojanovic
As far as I know, there are no bigger terminals on the fuel pump relays, all are same size. To run the pumps, you should jump the sockets shown in red on the sketch below. There is no need to switch the ignition "on" for this test. I found that listening at the open filler neck (flap pushed down) is a good way to hear the pumps running.
Originally Posted by Hooli
I might be remembering wrong then, I thought those two were bigger.
jumped the relay socket and fuel pump ran. gonna check the schrader valve for fuel pressure with a screwdriver.any ideas if it doesn’t fire up?
Assuming the gauge of the wire is at least equally the same gauge as the fuel pump wire, you could just keep the jumper wire in place and try to start it.
Assuming the gauge of the wire is at least equally the same gauge as the fuel pump wire, you could just keep the jumper wire in place and try to start it.
As far as I know, there are no bigger terminals on the fuel pump relays, all are same size. To run the pumps, you should jump the sockets shown in red on the sketch below. There is no need to switch the ignition "on" for this test. I found that listening at the open filler neck (flap pushed down) is a good way to hear the pumps running.
Originally Posted by Addicted2boost
Assuming the gauge of the wire is at least equally the same gauge as the fuel pump wire, you could just keep the jumper wire in place and try to start it.
Originally Posted by Hooli
I might be remembering wrong then, I thought those two were bigger.
So i put some marvel mystery oil in the spark plug holes, floored the gas pedal cranked the ignition, let off the pedal and it fired up then stalled out. Will attach a video. i do not believe the fuel pump is engaged when starting the car. any ideas? i did not jump the fuel relay when i started it up. will try when it stops raining.
Remove one of the 2 fuel pump relays. Hotwire one pump with the jumper wire, try to start the engine. If it still won’t fire up, turn the key off. Remove the jumper wire from the one fuel pump, reinstall the relay, go to the other fuel pump relay and hot wire it up and try starting again.
Remove one of the 2 fuel pump relays. Hotwire one pump with the jumper wire, try to start the engine. If it still won’t fire up, turn the key off. Remove the jumper wire from the one fuel pump, reinstall the relay, go to the other fuel pump relay and hot wire it up and try starting again.
Hotwired the relays one at a time and no start cranked for 5 seconds two times each. i can hear the gas travel in the engine bay and also returning in the tank. what gives??? what’s a good scan tool for these?
If you hear both pumps running, you’ll need to remove the blue valve stem cap next to cylinder #5 and cautiously depress the schrader valve. If you don’t get any fuel, there’s a chance the fuel lines popped off the pumps in the tank.
If you hear both pumps running, you’ll need to remove the blue valve stem cap next to cylinder #5 and cautiously depress the schrader valve. If you don’t get any fuel, there’s a chance the fuel lines popped off the pumps in the tank.
do i run pumps while checking? i can’t fit my pressure gauge on there because of the hoses so i’ll just tap it with a long screwdriver. thanks for all your help man
I would activate the pump a few seconds then deactivate it. Walk up front and cautiously depress the schrader valve with a long skinny flathead. You should have a decent squirt of fuel coming out of it. If you don’t, have someone activate the pump while you’re cautiously depressing the schrader valve.
When you and your friend replaced the pumps, did you disconnect the fuel lines from underneath the tank *prior to* sliding the tank back? If the answer is no, there’s a high probability that the metal line coming out of the tank is smashed flat or kinked and causing the issue.
I would activate the pump a few seconds then deactivate it. Walk up front and cautiously depress the schrader valve with a long skinny flathead. You should have a decent squirt of fuel coming out of it. If you don’t, have someone activate the pump while you’re cautiously depressing the schrader valve.
When you and your friend replaced the pumps, did you disconnect the fuel lines from underneath the tank *prior to* sliding the tank back? If the answer is no, there’s a high probability that the metal line coming out of the tank is smashed flat or kinked and causing the issue.
okay thanks. will test it later today and get back to you on the results. yep we pulled on the tank and broke the lines. i cut the lines at the tank and near the fuel filter and routed fuel injector lines of the same inner diameter. no leaks when i hotwired the pumps. at least if i have to go back in the tank it will be easier.
I would activate the pump a few seconds then deactivate it. Walk up front and cautiously depress the schrader valve with a long skinny flathead. You should have a decent squirt of fuel coming out of it. If you don’t, have someone activate the pump while you’re cautiously depressing the schrader valve.
When you and your friend replaced the pumps, did you disconnect the fuel lines from underneath the tank *prior to* sliding the tank back? If the answer is no, there’s a high probability that the metal line coming out of the tank is smashed flat or kinked and causing the issue.
well i got some codes using the bluedriver scanner. tested the schrader valve with the key in auxiliary position and nothing. didn’t want to test it with the relay jumped because it started spitting rain
04-13-2024, 02:02 PM
2003 XJR Fuel pumps not working
