The FP relay code is likely due to one of the relays were out of the socket when you had the key on. Just a reminder, you don’t need the key in the ignition when you do jump both FP relays. You could have the key in your pocket, jump both relays and have the FP’s functional. If you have fuel in the tank and you jump both of them, you should hear them operate as long as there’s no noises outside the vehicle. Maybe even take the gas cap off and listen??

Concerning the MAF sensor, it’s the same situation. If for some reason it was unplugged when you had the key on, those codes will come up. I’d clear those codes out.

How much fuel do you have in the tank?

 

Okay nice, i’ll go ahead and clear the codes. I live on a fairly quite street so the pumps are easy to hear with the relays hotwired. i know it’s the pumps because it makes the same sound my s10 makes when i turn the key to auxiliary. To be honest i don’t remember having the key in and doing any work to it. I took out the MAF when i put oil in the cylinders. the fuel pump one makes sense though since i hotwired the FP relay and tried starting. I put 5L of 93 in a empty tank, is that enough?

 

I would put another 5 L in just to make sure.

 

HAHA, i got fuel at the schrader valve with the relay hotwired. which means no digging in the fuel tank again for me, right?

 

Did you hotwire both pumps or just one? I’d still put another 5L in it before you try to start it without bypassing the relays first. If it still won’t start, bypass the relay then try and start.

 

will do i’ll get back to you tomorrow

 

...just a heads up....typically when you clear OBD codes, many of the on-board emissions system monitors have to relearn/reset themselves. That can take a fair amount of drive time, even if you drive through the factory reset profile several times. If you have to get a "PASS" on a required emissions inspection as a pre-registration/license plate renewal, this can be a holdup in the process.

 

no emissions test for me (canada). dash was throwing a bunch of codes before like restricted preformance and abs. now it just shows suspension fault and low brake fluid

 

So I’m assuming that you tried to start the engine. Excluding the lights, what did you do? Did you get a little more petrol for it?

Do you have the battery on a maintainer/charger? If not, you need to because the battery needs to be healthy before going any further. If I were you, I’d clear all the codes in all modules followed by a hard reset before you try to start it.

 

nah i didn’t get more petrol yet been busy. i’ll see to get some today. i have a charger i’ll take out the battery and put it on the charger. removing the battery will hard reset the car right?

 

A hard reset for a Jaguar X308 involves disconnecting the battery earth lead and holding
the lead on the battery positive post for about ten seconds. When reconnecting the earth
lead, make sure to do so cleanly without hesitation. Keep in mind that if you need a radio
security code and don’t have it, you might run into trouble. This process essentially resets
various parameters, including long-term fuel trim levels and gearbox adaptations, back to
their factory default settings. As you drive, the car learns about your driving style and
adjusts these variables accordingly.

 

Disconnect the maf and start the engine

 

For Hard Reset, 10 sec. may not be enough. Below is an extract from the Jaguar Service Training (2002) document stating "at least 60 seconds". And there is no requirement to touch the positive terminal with the disconnected negative cable (urban legend?).

 

There may be no statement regarding the "requirement to touch the positive
terminal with the disconnected negative cable" although the practice is logical
to discharge those capacitors which are retaining charge. If one has an aversion
to that idea, one might simply wait about thirty minutes before reconnecting.

 

put battery to charge it says it was at 70 percent. making a checklist. maf unplugged, more gas, hard reset. was also reading in another forum it could be engine temp sensor causing no fuel when i turn the key, or the inertia switch. I’ve checked the inertia switch before but didn’t see any buttons. maybe it was something else. where is it located on LHD cars? i believe i checked the drivers side pedal area behind carpet. Does the inertia cut spark as well or just fuel? because i got it running with marvel mystery oil in the cylinders, so i know i have spark. i’m guessing something is restricting the injectors. I also have fuel at the schrader valve with pumps hotwired

 

check this relay if it's working fine the it's probably the ECU or the wiring have some cut somewhere

 

Ok thanks. If nothing works i’ll probably take it to a shop. i don’t know much about testing wiring.

 

well fully charged battery, added another 5l of gas, cleaned engine/coolant temp sensor and tried with maf unplugged and plugged and still not starting. will do the hard reset if weather is still good tomorrow and ill get alligator clips to test the fuel injector relay. can i hotwire the injector relay?

 

Maybe the plugs are too wet to ignite?

 

they’re practically new plugs i’ll take em out though and post some pictures of what they look like.