is this 2003 XJR worth buying?
#41
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What's a good brand or website to browse for aftermarket jaguar parts? I'm looking for a lower pulley at the moment & replacement shocks for the front. I'm not quite sure if the shocks are different cats vs non cats.
#43
#44
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Seller should be able to give you the year, make, model and approximate miles off the car if they are a reputable recycle/salvage shop.
I'm thinking you might be able to also go by the VIN number off the block but I'm sure others will chime in.
#45
#46
#48
#49
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yeah they're pretty beefy when I was comparing them to my stock mustang rods. The heads are trashed though they can't be machined.. way out of spec due to the engine overheating so bad so I'm on the hunt for a new pair. Anyone know where I can get a service manual for this specific engine? I need torque specs and ring end gap specs.. pretty much the entire engine torque specs. I looked online and Haynes doesn't have any jaguar repair manuals.
I had some spare time today to clean up the block a little.. I will most likely finish it tomorrow and hone it by Sunday.
I had some spare time today to clean up the block a little.. I will most likely finish it tomorrow and hone it by Sunday.
![](https://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/attachments/xj-xj8-xjr-x308-27/72482-2003-xjr-worth-buying-fld15u.jpg?dateline=1392437805)
Last edited by Ericbilt25; 02-14-2014 at 10:16 PM.
#51
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Don't hone the liners, a simple flap wheel will give you the cross hatch you require. Honing takes too much material. These units run tight tolerances. I use a disc sander with cuts in it from edge to centre so it goes into the bores nice and easy. A couple of up/down strokes, job done.
Any AJ27 heads/cams will do, but you'll need to swap the cam sprockets over from yours (SC flywheels and morse chain drives) removing VVT if NA.
When torquing up the bedplate I'd suggest a torque wrench with angle. Tick/mark each bolt as you work through them, as you know there's plenty of them.
With the rings make note of the right side up on the compressions. If you bust them, buy new.
Racing Green (uk) do full sets cheaper than Jaguar, along with some nice bits like upper/lower pulley upgrades
RACING GREEN CARS | Jaguar Parts
Use the later 4.2 head gaskets. Locate a Gen5 Eaton (off the 4.2) it's a nicer/later unit.
The AJ-V8 course book was uploaded by Bob Gauff or 'motorcarman' search his posts or the term and you'll find it. There's a torque spec list within. Generally light to medium torque settings right through the unit. Get plenty of Ultra Grey Loctite sealer, you'll need to run beads and help gaskets along with this stuff.
Hope this helps - done a few, spare bedroom a while ago - Blue Printed unit...
![](https://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/attachments/xj-xj8-xjr-x308-27/72492-2003-xjr-worth-buying-dscf5677_zps45b8d544.jpg?dateline=1392463741)
![](https://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/attachments/xj-xj8-xjr-x308-27/72493-2003-xjr-worth-buying-dscf5686small_zps556ae5a3.jpg?dateline=1392463741)
Any AJ27 heads/cams will do, but you'll need to swap the cam sprockets over from yours (SC flywheels and morse chain drives) removing VVT if NA.
When torquing up the bedplate I'd suggest a torque wrench with angle. Tick/mark each bolt as you work through them, as you know there's plenty of them.
With the rings make note of the right side up on the compressions. If you bust them, buy new.
Racing Green (uk) do full sets cheaper than Jaguar, along with some nice bits like upper/lower pulley upgrades
RACING GREEN CARS | Jaguar Parts
Use the later 4.2 head gaskets. Locate a Gen5 Eaton (off the 4.2) it's a nicer/later unit.
The AJ-V8 course book was uploaded by Bob Gauff or 'motorcarman' search his posts or the term and you'll find it. There's a torque spec list within. Generally light to medium torque settings right through the unit. Get plenty of Ultra Grey Loctite sealer, you'll need to run beads and help gaskets along with this stuff.
Hope this helps - done a few, spare bedroom a while ago - Blue Printed unit...
![](https://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/attachments/xj-xj8-xjr-x308-27/72492-2003-xjr-worth-buying-dscf5677_zps45b8d544.jpg?dateline=1392463741)
![](https://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/attachments/xj-xj8-xjr-x308-27/72493-2003-xjr-worth-buying-dscf5686small_zps556ae5a3.jpg?dateline=1392463741)
![](https://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/attachments/xj-xj8-xjr-x308-27/72494-2003-xjr-worth-buying-dscf5690_zps6c7290cf.jpg?dateline=1392463741)
Last edited by Sean B; 02-15-2014 at 05:29 AM.
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Ericbilt25 (02-15-2014)
#52
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It's been quite a while since I updated this thread. I finally got around to taking the engine apart and cleaning parts before sending it out to a machine shop to have it inspected, but I will be rebuilding this engine myself if everything turns out okay. It looks ugly at the moment:
I would expect this sort of mess from a 50 year old clunker, not a '03 Jaguar.
Some people just don't deserve to have these cars.
As Sean B. suggests, I would just use a 'flop mop' to clean the bores.
If worried at all about bore concentricity, you could have them miked to check for any ovality after such an extreme over heat issue.
You will remember to mark and number all the piston assemblies as the con rods are 'fracture' split' and you need to pair them very carefully.
These are a pretty straight forward engine to rebuild just remembering to keep all the torque specs just right.
The following users liked this post:
Ericbilt25 (02-15-2014)
#53
![Default](/forum/images/icons/icon1.gif)
Don't hone the liners, a simple flap wheel will give you the cross hatch you require. Honing takes too much material. These units run tight tolerances. I use a disc sander with cuts in it from edge to centre so it goes into the bores nice and easy. A couple of up/down strokes, job done.
Any AJ27 heads/cams will do, but you'll need to swap the cam sprockets over from yours (SC flywheels and morse chain drives) removing VVT if NA.
When torquing up the bedplate I'd suggest a torque wrench with angle. Tick/mark each bolt as you work through them, as you know there's plenty of them.
With the rings make note of the right side up on the compressions. If you bust them, buy new.
Racing Green (uk) do full sets cheaper than Jaguar, along with some nice bits like upper/lower pulley upgrades
RACING GREEN CARS | Jaguar Parts
Use the later 4.2 head gaskets. Locate a Gen5 Eaton (off the 4.2) it's a nicer/later unit.
The AJ-V8 course book was uploaded by Bob Gauff or 'motorcarman' search his posts or the term and you'll find it. There's a torque spec list within. Generally light to medium torque settings right through the unit. Get plenty of Ultra Grey Loctite sealer, you'll need to run beads and help gaskets along with this stuff.
Hope this helps - done a few, spare bedroom a while ago - Blue Printed unit...
![](https://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/attachments/xj-xj8-xjr-x308-27/72492-2003-xjr-worth-buying-dscf5677_zps45b8d544.jpg?dateline=1392463741)
![](https://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/attachments/xj-xj8-xjr-x308-27/72493-2003-xjr-worth-buying-dscf5686small_zps556ae5a3.jpg?dateline=1392463741)
![](https://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/attachments/xj-xj8-xjr-x308-27/72494-2003-xjr-worth-buying-dscf5690_zps6c7290cf.jpg?dateline=1392463741)
Any AJ27 heads/cams will do, but you'll need to swap the cam sprockets over from yours (SC flywheels and morse chain drives) removing VVT if NA.
When torquing up the bedplate I'd suggest a torque wrench with angle. Tick/mark each bolt as you work through them, as you know there's plenty of them.
With the rings make note of the right side up on the compressions. If you bust them, buy new.
Racing Green (uk) do full sets cheaper than Jaguar, along with some nice bits like upper/lower pulley upgrades
RACING GREEN CARS | Jaguar Parts
Use the later 4.2 head gaskets. Locate a Gen5 Eaton (off the 4.2) it's a nicer/later unit.
The AJ-V8 course book was uploaded by Bob Gauff or 'motorcarman' search his posts or the term and you'll find it. There's a torque spec list within. Generally light to medium torque settings right through the unit. Get plenty of Ultra Grey Loctite sealer, you'll need to run beads and help gaskets along with this stuff.
Hope this helps - done a few, spare bedroom a while ago - Blue Printed unit...
![](https://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/attachments/xj-xj8-xjr-x308-27/72492-2003-xjr-worth-buying-dscf5677_zps45b8d544.jpg?dateline=1392463741)
![](https://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/attachments/xj-xj8-xjr-x308-27/72493-2003-xjr-worth-buying-dscf5686small_zps556ae5a3.jpg?dateline=1392463741)
![](https://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/attachments/xj-xj8-xjr-x308-27/72494-2003-xjr-worth-buying-dscf5690_zps6c7290cf.jpg?dateline=1392463741)
#54
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Holy cow batfink....what a frickin' mess!
I would expect this sort of mess from a 50 year old clunker, not a '03 Jaguar.
Some people just don't deserve to have these cars.
As Sean B. suggests, I would just use a 'flop mop' to clean the bores.
If worried at all about bore concentricity, you could have them miked to check for any ovality after such an extreme over heat issue.
You will remember to mark and number all the piston assemblies as the con rods are 'fracture' split' and you need to pair them very carefully.
These are a pretty straight forward engine to rebuild just remembering to keep all the torque specs just right.
I would expect this sort of mess from a 50 year old clunker, not a '03 Jaguar.
Some people just don't deserve to have these cars.
As Sean B. suggests, I would just use a 'flop mop' to clean the bores.
If worried at all about bore concentricity, you could have them miked to check for any ovality after such an extreme over heat issue.
You will remember to mark and number all the piston assemblies as the con rods are 'fracture' split' and you need to pair them very carefully.
These are a pretty straight forward engine to rebuild just remembering to keep all the torque specs just right.
Last edited by Ericbilt25; 02-15-2014 at 11:44 AM.
The following users liked this post:
Ericbilt25 (02-16-2014)
#57
The following users liked this post:
Ericbilt25 (02-16-2014)
#58
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The Rims and brakes alone are worth 2500-3500.
$1000-1200 for brakes and 2000-2500 for wheels. Hard to come by those wheels.
I'd look for a used 4.2 engine and swap it out. Will probably be much much cheaper in the long run rather than chasing all those little issues down.
$1000-1200 for brakes and 2000-2500 for wheels. Hard to come by those wheels.
I'd look for a used 4.2 engine and swap it out. Will probably be much much cheaper in the long run rather than chasing all those little issues down.
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#60
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Ericbilt25 (02-17-2014)