Hi there!

I'm in the middle of the process of replacing the secondaries on my XJ8.
Right hand bank worked like a charm using the zip-tie method.
Old tensioner looked good, had just a small crack in the housing.

The left hand bank causing me trouble though.

Any advice on how to get the oil dipstick off that valve cover bolt.

Help would be appreciated!

Thanks!!!


David

 

Sorry can't help you but can you take pics step by step on how did you do the replacement? Thanks

 

The dip stick tube is just force fit into the block. Wiggle, pull, turn, pull. Mind was more difficult getting back in than out.

 

Once you get it off the cam cover bolt thread do not take it all the way out. Just let it hang there. It has a tortuous path back into the block. You know how I know.

 

I did not touch my dip stick tube... just left it alone and lifted the cam cover away. Perhaps yours is different. I just needed a swivel on my socket to access the bolt, as it was not in contact with the cam cover bolt. It was close, but not directly in the way. Is it flexible enough to just move it aside as you put the socket on the bolt?

 

I guess you don't need the dimensions on the cam lock tool David, good man for cracking on. The cracked tensioners, that knowing frown when you spot the fault, who knows how long they'd last split like that.
While in there, detail the inner arches and back of hoses, I'm ocd like that. Good vibes for the rest of the job

 

I have had to get a seal hook and slide hammer to pull reluctant dipstick tubes off the threaded stud/bolt. Hook the tool under the edge of the mount bracket close to the tube and pull up HARD. I leave the dipstick in the tube and just displace the tube to move it out of the way. If it gets too bent you might have to remove it completely to straighten the mount tab.

bob gauff

 

I found this to be a useful post:

https://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/s...09&postcount=1

Sounded like a great idea and worked for me.

 

OK, thanks guys!

I think I will leave the dipstick tube untouched and cut the bracket like jag_genius said:
And this is exactly what I'm afraid of and why I decided not to pull on the tube at all.

I thought about doing another write-up, but decided against it.
There are so many FAQs about the timing chain job, so why write another one? The "Zip-Tie-Method" is not so much different from doing it the regular way it's just easier. Taking pictures of a repair job is a PITA especially when you are deep into the engine with grease and oil all over the place. For every picture you'll take, you have to stop the work, lay everything aside, clean your hands, and shoot the pic...

Thanks Sean! And yeah, I just had to do it and I had to do it now so no dimensions needed anymore.

Thanks again!

David

 

Up and running again !



Left hand side completed w/o any issues.
I cut open the opening in the dip-stick-tube bracket with a metal shears and was able to bent the dip-stick to the side to have enough room...

Engine is running perfect. (Was perfect with the old tensioners as well).
Old tensioner had a very little crack on it's housing and little cracks on the chain slip surface. (See pics.)

I'm glad I did the replacement even if the old tensioners didn't look that bad.


David

 

Great job! I was not in clear on where to use the cable/zip ties. Car looks like a million bucks David. Keep the shinny side up and the greasy side down!

 

I'm doing a full timing component change and ran into the same thing 8mm nut then figuring out how to get the dipstick tab over the stud so I could remove the 10mm stud. IMO this should have been done to begin with. I took a good pair of electrical snips and from the firewall sided used them to cut a section out of the tab that would allow me to slide the whole dipstick off the stud once the 8mm nut is removed or loosened. I made my cuts at roughly 3 and 5 o clock on the tab allowing for a slight hook on the tab - loosen the nut wiggle a bit toward the front and tab is free - with nut loose you can wiggle the tab back on later and tighten the nut to secure it in place.

 

Beautiful car, David!

Drive in good health, my friend.

SirJag

 

It's good to read it's up and running
Have many happy driving and job well done

 

Good stuff David, you can relax now that's out of the way. Did you get the car with that bonnet badge on? it looks slightly odd having an XK badge there? It looks very much like an XJR with the mesh grill inserts and Asteroid wheels, do XJ Sport's come with them? I'm not familiar with the specs' for them.

 

The zip tie goes on the exhaust cam.

A possible enhancement is to also mark two chain links and one gear tooth on the intake sprocket in case the chain gets too slack.

BTW, could someone put a name to the wheels on David's car?

 

Didn't scan through but here is a good wheel identification link:

http://www.wheelconcepts.com/JAGUAR.htm

 

I put on that badge to cover the holes that one of the previous owners drilled to retrofit a chrome leaper.
In general I like chrome, but with the black grill surround the chrome leaper looked kinda out of place.
I plan on mounting the leaper again, but first it will be colored in black .
It's just a temporary thing with the XK badge...

Re the specs of the "Sport" - I really don't know.
Penta (winter wheels) and Asteroids (summer wheels) have been retrofitted by me.


David

 

On top of the picture - Penta 8Jx18 (XJR 1998 - 1999)
On the bottom - Asteroid 8Jx18 (XJR 2000 - 2003)

 

Thanks! Always liked them the best. Ever since minilites.