5HP24 home repair on a BMW X5.
#61
The end float on the input shaft is excessive so I need to get the correct shim. More delays.
Franz stressed the importance of this end float, he said it is often wrong from the factory, causing the bearing failure. It also sets where the A drum sits, and the o r ing that failed only has a very small land to ride in and a millimeter or so can make all the difference.
I will post more pictures when I have time.
Franz stressed the importance of this end float, he said it is often wrong from the factory, causing the bearing failure. It also sets where the A drum sits, and the o r ing that failed only has a very small land to ride in and a millimeter or so can make all the difference.
I will post more pictures when I have time.
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Gus (03-25-2012)
#62
Update- she lives! At last my garage is no longer consumed by the monstrous black beast that is my wife's X5.
The new shim set the endfloat nicely. Prior to install I used a siphon pump to suck all the fluid out of the torque converter that I could. I guess a litre to one and a half litres came out. However you can't pour fluid back in, it just doesn't work.
The installation went much smoother than the removal. Raising the car up higher did the trick. The clearance under the oil pan was 25 inches.
I levelled the vehicle and pumped in 3 litres, that's all it would take without the engine running. Running in park it took several more litres. I then cycled it between park and drive several times and added a bit more until it was trickling out. I used our barbecue temp probe (don't tell my wife) to measure the temperature of the fluid dribbling out. I put the plug back in at 40 degrees C.
Then off for a test drive, and 25 km later, it's running just fine. I let her cool down overnight, and adjusted the fluid level again by starting it in park and letting it run. No fluid came out when cold, but as it warmed up, it started to dribble. Long story short, I used the pump to adjust the level so it just dripped at 45 C. BTW, 45 or 50C can also be judged by the point where the pan is too hot to touch. Overall it took 7.3 litres.
At any rate, she drives nicely, doesn't leak and doesn't make any funny noises. Hopefully she'll stay that way for the rest of her natural life.
The new shim set the endfloat nicely. Prior to install I used a siphon pump to suck all the fluid out of the torque converter that I could. I guess a litre to one and a half litres came out. However you can't pour fluid back in, it just doesn't work.
The installation went much smoother than the removal. Raising the car up higher did the trick. The clearance under the oil pan was 25 inches.
I levelled the vehicle and pumped in 3 litres, that's all it would take without the engine running. Running in park it took several more litres. I then cycled it between park and drive several times and added a bit more until it was trickling out. I used our barbecue temp probe (don't tell my wife) to measure the temperature of the fluid dribbling out. I put the plug back in at 40 degrees C.
Then off for a test drive, and 25 km later, it's running just fine. I let her cool down overnight, and adjusted the fluid level again by starting it in park and letting it run. No fluid came out when cold, but as it warmed up, it started to dribble. Long story short, I used the pump to adjust the level so it just dripped at 45 C. BTW, 45 or 50C can also be judged by the point where the pan is too hot to touch. Overall it took 7.3 litres.
At any rate, she drives nicely, doesn't leak and doesn't make any funny noises. Hopefully she'll stay that way for the rest of her natural life.
Last edited by avt007; 03-31-2012 at 04:21 PM.
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fredd60 (04-05-2012)
#64
#66
The bearing definitely wore out. I was told that the factory doesn't always get the preload correct since it is mostly assembled by machines. Too little gap puts too much load on the bearing.
I am not necessarily convinced that is correct, but whatever the cause, the worn bearing allows the A drum to move aft, and there is very little room for it to move before the o ring falls off the sealing surface. We're talking maybe a millimeter.
Once the o ring fails, the pressure is lost to the A drum clutch, and it's game over. As I recall, the A drum is used in first through fourth gear.
I replaced the A drum with the latest ZF version, and also the main pressure regulating valve and shift selector valve.
I used Lifeguard 5 fluid. It is a clear amber color just like engine oil.
It was a very interesting and satisfying project and although it took forever, I am glad I did it.
I am not necessarily convinced that is correct, but whatever the cause, the worn bearing allows the A drum to move aft, and there is very little room for it to move before the o ring falls off the sealing surface. We're talking maybe a millimeter.
Once the o ring fails, the pressure is lost to the A drum clutch, and it's game over. As I recall, the A drum is used in first through fourth gear.
I replaced the A drum with the latest ZF version, and also the main pressure regulating valve and shift selector valve.
I used Lifeguard 5 fluid. It is a clear amber color just like engine oil.
It was a very interesting and satisfying project and although it took forever, I am glad I did it.
#67
I am in total agreement that using the correct fluid is a key to total satisfaction when completing a rebuild or just replacing the fluid. I had been told that the bearing was a key in the rebuild process but was often overlooked. When you had it apart did you focus on the valve body or the “O” rings associated with it? Please keep us posted as time goes on.
#68
#69
Hi,
I know this is a old post,but i need to ask ,is this the rebuild kit for the zf 5hp24?
link: Overhaul Kit 5HP24,
I have contacted them about a day ago,and no replies yet,dont know how re-able is this company!.
I have the tranny numbers:
1058-000034
5hp24 zf
green sticker.
thank you for help!
I know this is a old post,but i need to ask ,is this the rebuild kit for the zf 5hp24?
link: Overhaul Kit 5HP24,
I have contacted them about a day ago,and no replies yet,dont know how re-able is this company!.
I have the tranny numbers:
1058-000034
5hp24 zf
green sticker.
thank you for help!
#70
Yes that is the correct kit, it's very complete. I found that Klaus at CTSC was slow in responding if you used the contact us feature on their website. You are best to phone him, I think. I have an email address info@thectsc.com, that might help.
Go with them, I had good results and good support. I bought the kit and fluid from them.
Do a search on this forum, the ZF repair manual is on here somewhere, it's invaluable.
Go with them, I had good results and good support. I bought the kit and fluid from them.
Do a search on this forum, the ZF repair manual is on here somewhere, it's invaluable.
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nemtulea (08-22-2013)
#77
jolt , slipping from 1-2 when hot, and reading from the forums, it could be a o-ring or bearing bad,broke.
I have 75.000 miles on it and all of sun start doing that when hot ,i stop and when try to go is slipping from 1 to 2 gear ...
Already did a filter and oil change but did not help,so i took tranny down ,and i have to start tear out,order the kit today and other people said is
better to change those pipes also !, i did not find any metal in the pan,only normal wear ,but just to be sure...those pipes are okay,i guess ,oil passes ,and if they are blocked
may screw up the tranny again,sorry my first time doing this.
Thanks,
I have 75.000 miles on it and all of sun start doing that when hot ,i stop and when try to go is slipping from 1 to 2 gear ...
Already did a filter and oil change but did not help,so i took tranny down ,and i have to start tear out,order the kit today and other people said is
better to change those pipes also !, i did not find any metal in the pan,only normal wear ,but just to be sure...those pipes are okay,i guess ,oil passes ,and if they are blocked
may screw up the tranny again,sorry my first time doing this.
Thanks,
Last edited by nemtulea; 08-22-2013 at 07:41 PM.
#80
hmmm,what cable was that?
I took the truck to Bmw dealer to have it diagnostic and the verdict was ,that need to have my tranny replaced!.
I had a code for "gear monitoring" , plus is happening when tranny is hot and when cold is ok,so i dont think that it maybe a cable,
if it was it should do all the time?!
Was yours doing all the time? hot or cold ?
Thanks,
I took the truck to Bmw dealer to have it diagnostic and the verdict was ,that need to have my tranny replaced!.
I had a code for "gear monitoring" , plus is happening when tranny is hot and when cold is ok,so i dont think that it maybe a cable,
if it was it should do all the time?!
Was yours doing all the time? hot or cold ?
Thanks,
Last edited by nemtulea; 08-22-2013 at 10:21 PM.