5HP24 home repair on a BMW X5.
#81
#84
The normal failure of these transmissions (bearing, A drum) cause the engine to rev very high, than slam into gear. Or, you have reverse and 5th gear only. Slipping is a different problem, I would check cable adjustment and fluid level before taking it apart.
On the X5, the cable adjustment is very simple. When in Park, there's no play or movement in the linkage or cable. Also, the lever on the transmission does not move when it is in a gear, in other words, the detents and springs hold it in place tightly.
When I put the trans back in, I just slid the cable into place and tightened up the bolt.
Also, I'd keep away from the dealer. They wanted $11,000 to replace the transmission.
I asked them to check the fluid level and they said it was ok, yet when I pulled the trans it was obvious that the fill plug had not been touched. They checked it with their computer only.
What vehicle is this on?
On the X5, the cable adjustment is very simple. When in Park, there's no play or movement in the linkage or cable. Also, the lever on the transmission does not move when it is in a gear, in other words, the detents and springs hold it in place tightly.
When I put the trans back in, I just slid the cable into place and tightened up the bolt.
Also, I'd keep away from the dealer. They wanted $11,000 to replace the transmission.
I asked them to check the fluid level and they said it was ok, yet when I pulled the trans it was obvious that the fill plug had not been touched. They checked it with their computer only.
What vehicle is this on?
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nemtulea (08-23-2013)
#85
I read your posts more carefully. Since the trans is out, just take it apart carefully, take lots of pictures along the way. Inspect the a drum for cracks, that bearing for wear (replace it anyway) and look for cracks in the valve body. Also take out the pressure regulating valve and look for scratching and scoring in the valve body.
Replace every o ring using the kit.That means taking every drum apart, it's fiddly, but worth doing.
Let us know what you find.
Replace every o ring using the kit.That means taking every drum apart, it's fiddly, but worth doing.
Let us know what you find.
The following users liked this post:
nemtulea (08-23-2013)
#87
The normal failure of these transmissions (bearing, A drum) cause the engine to rev very high, than slam into gear. Or, you have reverse and 5th gear only. Slipping is a different problem, I would check cable adjustment and fluid level before taking it apart.
On the X5, the cable adjustment is very simple. When in Park, there's no play or movement in the linkage or cable. Also, the lever on the transmission does not move when it is in a gear, in other words, the detents and springs hold it in place tightly.
When I put the trans back in, I just slid the cable into place and tightened up the bolt.
Also, I'd keep away from the dealer. They wanted $11,000 to replace the transmission.
I asked them to check the fluid level and they said it was ok, yet when I pulled the trans it was obvious that the fill plug had not been touched. They checked it with their computer only.
What vehicle is this on?
On the X5, the cable adjustment is very simple. When in Park, there's no play or movement in the linkage or cable. Also, the lever on the transmission does not move when it is in a gear, in other words, the detents and springs hold it in place tightly.
When I put the trans back in, I just slid the cable into place and tightened up the bolt.
Also, I'd keep away from the dealer. They wanted $11,000 to replace the transmission.
I asked them to check the fluid level and they said it was ok, yet when I pulled the trans it was obvious that the fill plug had not been touched. They checked it with their computer only.
What vehicle is this on?
,
goes bad.
#88
I read your posts more carefully. Since the trans is out, just take it apart carefully, take lots of pictures along the way. Inspect the a drum for cracks, that bearing for wear (replace it anyway) and look for cracks in the valve body. Also take out the pressure regulating valve and look for scratching and scoring in the valve body.
Replace every o ring using the kit.That means taking every drum apart, it's fiddly, but worth doing.
Let us know what you find.
Replace every o ring using the kit.That means taking every drum apart, it's fiddly, but worth doing.
Let us know what you find.
As for that valve i have to look in the manual where exactly is located in the valve body.
Ordered the kit from ctsc ,and waiting for it,i will start tear down tomorrow sometime, and yes will post my findings.
Thank you!
#89
ATSG 2010 Seminar Information on the cause of the “A” drum failures.
Link http://www.jagrepair.com/images/Auto...%20ZF5HP24.pdf
Link http://www.jagrepair.com/images/Auto...%20ZF5HP24.pdf
#90
Hi,
I have open the tranny up today,part of it... and of course found a lot of stuff bad!.
The Bearing set (02.240-1058 20 016)
The Disc Carrier (72.180 - 1058 271 041)
And also the O-Ring on the input shaft ,broken.
(70.014 - 0734 313 151)
now, before i took everything apart i notice that ,when pulled from
intermediate shaft it was some play there, is that normal?
@avt007,
So what exactly did you change? all 3 or only the o-ring and that bearing?
extra picture:
Thank you!
I have open the tranny up today,part of it... and of course found a lot of stuff bad!.
The Bearing set (02.240-1058 20 016)
The Disc Carrier (72.180 - 1058 271 041)
And also the O-Ring on the input shaft ,broken.
(70.014 - 0734 313 151)
now, before i took everything apart i notice that ,when pulled from
intermediate shaft it was some play there, is that normal?
@avt007,
So what exactly did you change? all 3 or only the o-ring and that bearing?
extra picture:
Thank you!
#91
It looks almost exactly like mine. The bearing wears, the drums move, they rub against each other and the oring fails. You need to replace the oring, the bearing (and the spacer that goes with it) do not bother replacing the disc carrier just because it has some rubbing damage.
Use the o ring kit and replace all the seals. Keep taking it apart and check out the valve body for scoring. How is the A drum? Any cracks?
Also, did you find the repair manual?
Use the o ring kit and replace all the seals. Keep taking it apart and check out the valve body for scoring. How is the A drum? Any cracks?
Also, did you find the repair manual?
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nemtulea (08-25-2013)
#92
Hi,Rob,
Thanks for replying!
Drum A , is that the one in sec or third picture?, i look in the
manual and i don't see anywhere with Drum A...
As for the bearings, you mean to change this one:
The Bearing set (02.240-1058 20 016) first picture? ,how about the other 2 small ones and the one that little bigger? have you change those too?
,and other question for you: have you done a full rebuild or just those 2 things? and some from the valve body? from the kit?, i checked my valve body (witch is accessed from the oil pan under?) ,i check for cracks ,as i was reading that some people found them cracked, but i did not see any !...
On your tranny,have you gone all the way in rebuilding?
How about the torque converter? did you replaced that? just curios.
Thanks,
Nemtulea
(yes,i found the repair manual)
Thanks for replying!
Drum A , is that the one in sec or third picture?, i look in the
manual and i don't see anywhere with Drum A...
As for the bearings, you mean to change this one:
The Bearing set (02.240-1058 20 016) first picture? ,how about the other 2 small ones and the one that little bigger? have you change those too?
,and other question for you: have you done a full rebuild or just those 2 things? and some from the valve body? from the kit?, i checked my valve body (witch is accessed from the oil pan under?) ,i check for cracks ,as i was reading that some people found them cracked, but i did not see any !...
On your tranny,have you gone all the way in rebuilding?
How about the torque converter? did you replaced that? just curios.
Thanks,
Nemtulea
(yes,i found the repair manual)
#94
The A drum is the one with the bad oring. Here is what I replaced;
The bearing and oring because I had to.
All the other orings and seals because I had the kit.
The pressure regulating valve and the A drum because everyone says it's a good idea.
You could just replace the bad bearing and put it back together if you want to keep the cost down. But you have to decide how much money to spend, or if you want to risk having to take it apart again.
Your intermediate shaft looks ok. When you put it together, pay attention to the shim that sets the endplay on the input shaft. There is a measurement of how much the input shaft slides back and forth, and you have to get that right by measuring it and ordering the correct shim. You don't want that oring to fail again!
Good luck.
The bearing and oring because I had to.
All the other orings and seals because I had the kit.
The pressure regulating valve and the A drum because everyone says it's a good idea.
You could just replace the bad bearing and put it back together if you want to keep the cost down. But you have to decide how much money to spend, or if you want to risk having to take it apart again.
Your intermediate shaft looks ok. When you put it together, pay attention to the shim that sets the endplay on the input shaft. There is a measurement of how much the input shaft slides back and forth, and you have to get that right by measuring it and ordering the correct shim. You don't want that oring to fail again!
Good luck.
The following 2 users liked this post by avt007:
Maninahat98 (08-26-2013),
nemtulea (08-25-2013)
#95
Thank you for replying!...
I have checked A drum (input shaft) and it looks really good ,no cracks...
so i may not change it,and plus $230 ,and it got me now,as little low on money.
Now,
I will change the :
*o-ring (included in the kit ordered from ctsc)
*Bearing set (02.240- i have to see where to buy it now!
(as i did not see it at ctsc ,and they have never reply to my email's!?)
*Pressure regulating valve
(i notice that ctsc have it here.),
*And few other seals that i can change,and probably will not open the rest of the transmission (pictures from post 92),i guess
it should be fine there if the problem was found,based on the readings of the failing bearing and the o-ring.
Few other questions Regarding:
*How to measure that play ? is there any guide how to do it? and what tool i need , the repair manual does not show
exactly how to...
*Also if that shim ,have you change yours? where did you buy it? (ctsc does not have it from what i see on their website)
Thank you so much friend for your advice!,
Regards,
Nemtulea.
I have checked A drum (input shaft) and it looks really good ,no cracks...
so i may not change it,and plus $230 ,and it got me now,as little low on money.
Now,
I will change the :
*o-ring (included in the kit ordered from ctsc)
*Bearing set (02.240- i have to see where to buy it now!
(as i did not see it at ctsc ,and they have never reply to my email's!?)
*Pressure regulating valve
(i notice that ctsc have it here.),
*And few other seals that i can change,and probably will not open the rest of the transmission (pictures from post 92),i guess
it should be fine there if the problem was found,based on the readings of the failing bearing and the o-ring.
Few other questions Regarding:
*How to measure that play ? is there any guide how to do it? and what tool i need , the repair manual does not show
exactly how to...
*Also if that shim ,have you change yours? where did you buy it? (ctsc does not have it from what i see on their website)
Thank you so much friend for your advice!,
Regards,
Nemtulea.
The following users liked this post:
Maninahat98 (08-26-2013)
#96
#97
If you want to go as cheap as possible, leave everything alone and just change the bearing and o ring and some seals. It may run fine for years or something else may fail. Try Montreal Specialist in European automobile automatic transmissions including expert general maintenance and repair also ZF transmission parts distributor, they are in Montreal, and they are very friendly.
At the end of the manual, tthere is a procedure to check the endfloat. I will look forthe procedure. No special tools are needed except for dial gauge or digital calipers or even feeler gaugesto measure how much the input shaft moves in and out when it is all assembled.
At the end of the manual, tthere is a procedure to check the endfloat. I will look forthe procedure. No special tools are needed except for dial gauge or digital calipers or even feeler gaugesto measure how much the input shaft moves in and out when it is all assembled.
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nemtulea (08-27-2013)
#98
go to section 1.4.8 input play, and read it. I put a flat steel bar across the bell housing and used a dial gauge to read the input play. If it is not in specification, then you need to take it apart and measure the shim, and figure out what thickness you need.
Eurowa helped me with the part number.
Eurowa helped me with the part number.
The following users liked this post:
nemtulea (08-27-2013)
#99
Hi Rob,
Yes, i have decided to change the minimal,waiting as Thursday the kit should arrive and also Friday the bad bearing , then will try to put all together ,and then to check the end float, to see what shim i may need ,if any ...or the original maybe okay,but will see.
I have look at the manual ,but when you are there and do it is different,will see when i have all put together.
My store here in town Harbor Freight has those digital about 30$ without that stand , stand is 10$ extra.
Shims i found some at :
ctsc from : 1.4 to 2.0mm,
also
errickson has some : 1.4mm to 3.0mm
but will see when will check.
Other question,for you: what oil have you used ? the zf or other brand?
Before i took the tranny down ,i did change the oil and filter with petrosin atf-1, 17$ 1q., and i see a lot of people using castrol trans..., is cheaper at 6$ / 1q, but not sure ,maybe just spend to get good oil again instead other that may affect the tranny.
I also drain some of the oil from the Torque Converter , so now i need even more oil!, o well .
Anyway,thank you so much for your advice!.
Yes, i have decided to change the minimal,waiting as Thursday the kit should arrive and also Friday the bad bearing , then will try to put all together ,and then to check the end float, to see what shim i may need ,if any ...or the original maybe okay,but will see.
I have look at the manual ,but when you are there and do it is different,will see when i have all put together.
My store here in town Harbor Freight has those digital about 30$ without that stand , stand is 10$ extra.
Shims i found some at :
ctsc from : 1.4 to 2.0mm,
also
errickson has some : 1.4mm to 3.0mm
but will see when will check.
Other question,for you: what oil have you used ? the zf or other brand?
Before i took the tranny down ,i did change the oil and filter with petrosin atf-1, 17$ 1q., and i see a lot of people using castrol trans..., is cheaper at 6$ / 1q, but not sure ,maybe just spend to get good oil again instead other that may affect the tranny.
I also drain some of the oil from the Torque Converter , so now i need even more oil!, o well .
Anyway,thank you so much for your advice!.