Thank you so much Sir, will update once i get all in place ,and able to check the end play!

Regards.

 

You're welcome. BTW, no need to hit "thanks" all the time.

 

Appreciation counts for coming and replying to tread as other may not .

 

Hi Rob,

How exactly you check the endplay with the dial? , i cant figure out...

here is what i have:





thanks!

 

Try this- [IMG][/IMG]

 

Hi,

Thank you! for the screens...

the first time i got 0.54 mm and the sec. time i got 0.63 mm, how how do i do the math to know what shim i need?

I know that they have those 1.4 to 3.0 mm shims...

Thanks,

 

You need to push it in firmly, it should "clunk" when it bottoms out, then pull out sharply, measuring the distance the shaft moves. Do this several times until you are happy with the measurement.

My pictures show the transmission on it's side, but I actually measured it with the transmission standing on end, like the manual shows. That way you can be sure all the parts are as far down as possible, and when you pull the shaft up and down you are getting a good measurement.

Let's say for arguments sake that the endplay is 0.6 mm. You need to take the transmission apart far enough to take out the spacer p/n 02.260. Measure the thickness of the spacer carefully. Let's say it is 1.80 mm (my original one was this size). The endplay you need is 0.2-0.4 mm.

NOTE! When you are doing measurements you have to have the gasket behind the oil pump (p/n 10.024) in place, or it will affect the measurement. Also the bell housing and oil pump bolts need to be pretty tight to make everything is bottomed out. Not necessarily full torque, but have maybe 4 bolts in there, and snugged up tight. Accurate measurement is everything here.

Here's the math:

Existing endplay- desired endplay + old spacer thickness= new spacer thickness.
In our example then, 0.6-0.3 +1.8= 2.1 mm.

In this example, and in my transmission, I tried to get an endplay of 0.3 mm, right in the middle of the approved measurement, just to be safe in case my measuring was not exact. My numbers were 0.87-0.3 + 1.8= 2.37. I then bought a 2.4 shim and bolted it all back together. I checked it again after assembly, and although I didn't write down the measurement, it was within specifications.

It is your decision as to what final endplay you want, whether 0.2 or 0.3 mm.

Good luck and let us know how it goes.

 

Update:

My X5 is back on the road , driving really nice and no more slipping!

I would like to take a moment here to Thank you to all that give me some advice in fixing this! i really appreciate!

Regards.

 

Good work!

 

Hey,

I'd appreciate if You could give me some info about my 5HP24A

I have a 1997 Audi A8 D2 with a ZF 5HP24A Transmission.

When I put the car in drive, it revs up, then "bangs" into gear, then limp mode.

If I manage to do it slowly, then it works just fine!

According to Your thread and some other forums, there is a problem with that clutch bearing and O ring.

I've ordered these parts:
0734-313-151 - O Ring

1058-202-016 - Bearing

When doing an oil change on the trans, there wasn't ANY metal shavings, sludge, or anything.

Do you think chaging these parts would fix the problem?

The trans is still on the car, didn't take it apart yet.

Cheers and thanks,
Patrik

 

Patrik, You probably could get away with just changing those parts (assuming you find a worn bearing and not a broken A drum) but you need to set the endfloat as described in my post (#107) above.
Some people have fixed their units this way without doing anymore disassembly, so it can be done.

 

Rob, Thank You for the reply, It really means a lot. Well, I can just hope It's not a broken drum, but considering the quality of the oil (no shavings, contamination, etc), I think It's only the bearing's + O-Ring's fault. Hopefully.
I'll keep you updated and takes some photos on my way aswell.

 

If it bangs into gear, it's probably because the valve body is worn in the main pressure valve bore. This pdf will explain:

http://jagrepair.com/images/AutoRepa...%20ZF5HP24.pdf

 

So basically, I'll also have to order an oversized main pressure valve kit?
I mean, I can also change that when I swapped the O ring and the bearing, Since i do not need to take off the trans to make the swap.

 

Either that or buy a rebuilt valve body. Mine was okay, so I just put the new valve in.

 

BTW, my drum was fine, and the valve body had no scoring, but it revved very high then banged hard into gear.

The problem is, you really don't know what you're up against until you open it up.

 

Hey,

I've finally taken the transmission apart (was hell of a job to get it of the car without). First thing i noticed, that the O ring and the said Bearing was fine. However, I've found these scoring marks / blue marks on my intermediate shaft:



intermediate shaft blue coloring




intermediate shaft blue coloring




Inside of intermediate shaft. Are those scoring marks alright?




Inside of intermediate shaft. Are those scoring marks alright?




Inside of intermediate shaft. Are those scoring marks alright? Looks like something made it's way out of there.




Inside of intermediate shaft. Are those scoring marks alright? Looks like something made it's way out of there.


My questions are, how to proceed from now on? I didn't find any metal pieces in the trans or in the oil. The 3 bearings inside this pack look alright. My O ring isn't broken either.



O ring is fine by the looks of it.




Thanks in advance!
Patrik

 

I have a couple suggestion- look very carefully at at the bearings (there are a few of them, not just the one that commonly fails), look at the part that fits against your intermediate shaft and looking for matching wear. I see manufacturing marks, then some unusual marks where the bearing rides. Is that bearing ok?

Here is my collection of pictures, it may help. 5HP24 Photos by avt007 | Photobucket

 

Rob, Thanks for your quick reply, it really means a lot for me.

I've looked carefully on all the bearings and didn't find anything bad. I'll include a gallery of photos so you can see it for yourself.

How should i proceed from here? I think I'm going to take of the valve body tomorrow and see if it has any problems.

The gallery: http://imgur.com/a/4gpMq

Thanks in advance!

 

Patrik

Some thoughts on your posts:

Scoring as per the photos is not normal. The scoring looks like what I found when my A drum failed. Something has been making contact. However, it is possible that a prior owner rebuilt the transmission & those scores are from that (if my transmission came apart today, you would see similar scoring on one of the drums, even though it has operated fine for several years).

Your slam into gear is typical of a valve body issue. On a GM we used to have, we had a similar issue, when reversing, of the engine revving & then slamming into gear with all other shifts being OK (which was a typical failure of that transmission). That problem was due to orifice blockage in the VB due to build up of sludge over time. Your issue may relate to similar blockage or may be due to a piston issue. Regardless, either a VB rebuild kit or a replacement using a rebuilt unit may cure the issue.

If the transmission had been rebuilt in the past, it is quite possible that there was material left behind that got into the VB and caused it to start to fail. This is especially the case if there was any fluid left in the system (i.e. in the transmission cooler or lines) when it was rebuilt as it is likely that there were a lot of metal particles left suspended in the fluid (there was in mine).

Good Luck.