Hello All,I have a 1998 XJ8 that I bought after it had been sitting for about 5 years. I have had to replace the Fuel tank, Fuel pump, Transmission Neutral Safety switch. I have had the alternator look at. All it needed was new brushes. I have put a brand-new battery in the car.

Before and after the new battery I am getting battery not charging intermittent. But testing at battery I am getting 14+amps
Before and after I had the alternator worked on, I get Battery not charging intermittent. But testing at the battery I am getting 14+amps
I heard cutting the gray wire to the alternator and putting alternator output power to it would take care of battery not charging. It did, it is still intermittent.

So I still have the Battery not charging intermittent

After car has been disconnected from battery and all codes have been cleared, you start it one time. Take if for a drive it will have about 50% power with and without sport mode button and with no error codes coming on. if you shut it off and start it right back up and take back off it seems to be full power, with and without the sport mode button still with no error codes.

I cannot seem to cause the error codes to come on. I cannot find a reem or reason. But the "Restricted Performance" comes on codes
P0172 System to rich (bank 1)
P0175 System to rich (bank 2).
P0172 System to rich (bank 1) - Pending
P0175 System to rich (bank 2) - Pending
P0132 O2 Sensor Circuit High Volts (Bank 1 Sensor 1)
P1000 Manf Cntr Fuel&Air Metering, Auxiliary Emission Controls
P1643 Manufacturer Contrl Auxiliary Inputs Auxiliary Outputs

It is still drivable; you just cannot get on it hard or it start jerking. but if you clear the codes with code reader. You can do the 2 start and be back to full power and maybe drive 10min or all day before it errors out again.

Has anyone had this happen or any idea what I should be looking at. All input is welcome.

Thanks.

 

Honestly, I've never heard of cutting any wire on the alternator as you did. Grounds...grounds are your most common enemy for charging issues, check them, clean them up.
Next, what condition are your cables at the battery? If you have any corrosion on either, replace, you won't get that corrosion out and it will cut your charging and output ability. If you've had either of those issues and fixed them, then you can start chasing other possibilities.

For your codes, any low 170ish code is the O2's... review this... https://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/x...cement-195018/
Being its an O2, it won't clear until you replace the problem and being you just got the car, follow my thread and replace them all. Clear the codes with a code scanner and drive it.
A P1000 is an incomplete drive cycle test and won't clear until you fix the O2's.
The P1643 may be a result of the O2's as well, you won't know until you fix them.

Tip: When you do a search for any P codes, begin with Jaguar P**** and if its only a 3 number one, use the 0 in front of that number. Your search returns will be more concise.
Keep us informed to how this goes.

 

In my experience with the 98’ AJ26, there’s several bearings in the throttle body that seize up over time.

If you take the air intake tube off, keep the MAF plugged in, have someone else in the drivers seat, turn the ignition switch on but DO NOT start the engine. Tell the individual inside the car to floor the accelerator. The butterfly valve of the throttle body should be wide open or at least very close to it. If it’s not, then that’s the rich code issue.

If the engine is ambient temperature, the butterfly will likely be more difficult to open.

If the engine is up to full operating temperature, the butterfly will be much more likely to open up further.

Do these tests and report back.

 

Thanks for the new ideas! I will be trying all of the easy items in the evening this week. Then this weekend i will go over connections and ground wires. This care is very clean and you done see corrosion. Battery cables looked brand new, but will be clean every thing up just in case. if nothing seems to help. I will be ordering some O2 Sensors. I dont like throwing parts at a car when i cant verify that the part is bad. But I am ready with this car. Its driving me nuts.

Thanks again. will let you know.

 

Happy weekend all,

I am finally finding time to work on my girl. I have checked the ECM/ECU connections and found no corrosion issues. went ahead and sprayed them down with cleaner to make sure. The ECM (I believe) had some corrosion on the outside, so opened it to make sure it was not full of it inside. It looked brand new inside. No burn spots either.


Checked the throttle butterfly with pedal to the floor. It was wide open. Worked smooth. While i was working on it i noticed a small river of oil in the bottom of the throttle body and intake. The car has been using some oil on the highway. But i have only been able to maybe 1500 miles on the car while i have been working on it. Any thoughts to this???

 

Start by cleaning the part load breather in the driver side valve cover.

 

From what i am reading that should be a 3/32 hole. There is no parts like a PCV. So if its clogged just drill it out? I ask because it appears to be white plastic below if you look down the hole??

 

This car came with Bosch r3 platinum 4 Plugs. Should I go back to something close to factory to eliminate them as an issue?

 

I would definitely install the NGK Iridiums (2766?? I believe).

 

New noticed symptoms:
1: It will throw the restricted power code quicker when it is cooler outside
2:Bank 2(Driver side) Plugs were very black Bank 1 (pass side) plugs were closer to tan that they should be
3:the wipe will go off and on by itself. Just one wipe usually



I have add the NGK Iridium's. This did not help with any of the issues. I did notice once i had all the old plugs laid out together that the Bank 2(Drivers side) were very black and the Bank 1(Pass Side) were more of the tan they should be.
Seems odd since its the Bank 1 that I am thinking is the problem.

I cleaned the part load breather in the valve cover

Cleaned the mass air flow sensor in the air box

Going to switch the upstream o2 connection to see what reading I get. Then I think i am going to order new ones. Are Bosch brand ok Or do I have to go with Denso?

 

I would hold off throwing new 02 sensors at the car. If you don’t have a code for them, I would leave it be. How many miles/kilometers does the car have? Do you know if the secondary timing chain tensioners have been replaced?

Do you have a scan tool that will read data in the engine management? The restricted performance at colder could be a coolant temperature sensor or intake air temperature sensor issue. Just some ideas.

 

car has 113000miles. No I don't know any history. No I do have anything to read the engine management. What are some that are cost effective?

 

I don’t have any recommendations for a cost effective scanner as I have access to pretty expensive ones.

I think before you go any further, you need to pull both cam covers off and check to make sure the camshafts are all in time. Now, I know this isn’t necessarily your running issue but, it is absolutely necessary to know if the secondary timing chain tensioners have been replaced with aluminum bodied ones vs the original plastic ones seeing as you don’t have any history on this car. Plan on getting all the gaskets and 28 bolt seal washers that go with it.

Search timing chain tensioner replacement on here and there are tons of information available on how to do it. I think you can also search on here for scanners and it should also tell you.

 

The Search on site sucks since the upgrade about 3 yrs ago....for the tensioners, at the top of each forum is a How To section. blackonyx has a post, Tmingi chain and tensioner replacement

For scanners, there was a post awhile back about staying away from the iCarsoft I930. Here's a thread on some, I linked to the last page for the latest... https://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/g...-33347/page30/

 

That was an extremely detailed link for changing out the chains and tensioners!! Before I get into that I bought a scanner and came up with a couple of new codes i want to track down first.

•  
  1. Ignition Coil power stage Cylinder 6 Short circuit to ground
  2. Variable valve timing solenoid b circuit.

The scanner is just an inexpensive Zurich ZR11S. Unfortunately now I am having other issues. wiper is going of more often and just stopping in mid wipe. Stifter gets stuck in park with red light on console.
Going to start tracking the grounding problem first as well as the VVT.
So here we go again. almost a start over.

 

Cylinder #6 is the second one going from front to back on the drivers side. Pull that coil out and see if the spark plug tube is full of oil first. Check to see if the connection is somewhat ok on there. If any of the coil connectors look ok at first glance, chances are they’ll break if you just look at it wrong.

Check the connection on the VVT (also on the drivers side) on the front of the engine. I wouldn’t mess with that too much since the spark issue needs to get resolved first.

Make sure it’s a strong battery and maybe a hard reset is in order to see if some of your other issues disappear.

 

There was no oil. It was in same condition as the rest. I changed it with 5 where are the VVT? I have been unable to find from the topside.
.

 

On the timing cover, just beneath the valve cover on the drivers side.

 

I pulled out what i thought would be the VVT on the front of the motor. I dont know what they are. Will get a pic.

 

For what your doing, the Workshop Manual may be helpful to you. Its too large to load on site, here's AVERN1's pdf he converted in Dropbox, download it... https://www.dropbox.com/s/d1knbacxct...kshop.pdf?dl=0 ...it will take about 20-45 seconds because of its size.