98 XJR
#1
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Hello to everyone over here on the XJR/X308 forum, I normally reside on the xjs side possessing a 95 2+2 I6 with 84k miles, I tend to read a lot and consume all the knowledge over there which is considerable and greatly appreciated, but not a prolific poster.
I hope to have the opportunity to have a look at a 1998 XJR, 67000 miles, one owner, BRG I think, no accidents and I believe a full service history this weekend. I am about to go through the stickies but I wonder if you gentlemen over here could chip in with anything in particular that I should bo on the lookout for. I suspect reading here that it may be a car from the nikasil era but hopefully if it has got this far without any problems it should be ok?
I am based in the South West of the US so rust is generally not a problem.
At the moment this is pretty much all I know.
Any pointers would be gratefully received.
Thank you in advance.
gmacaz
I hope to have the opportunity to have a look at a 1998 XJR, 67000 miles, one owner, BRG I think, no accidents and I believe a full service history this weekend. I am about to go through the stickies but I wonder if you gentlemen over here could chip in with anything in particular that I should bo on the lookout for. I suspect reading here that it may be a car from the nikasil era but hopefully if it has got this far without any problems it should be ok?
I am based in the South West of the US so rust is generally not a problem.
At the moment this is pretty much all I know.
Any pointers would be gratefully received.
Thank you in advance.
gmacaz
#2
#3
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I just purchased a 98 XJR 2 months ago with the same mileage. They do have Nikasil liners, but at this point if it hasn't already been replaced you'll be just fine. Modern fuels do not contain the sulfur that damages the liner. It would have been born with plastic timing chain guides and tensioners, so definitely worth seeing if that has been updated. I also believe 98s had issues with the throttle body, so would be good to check on that as well (mine was replace at 30k miles according to service history). They also have the plastic-impeller water pump which should be replaced with either updated plastic or metal.
I'm not a Jag expert so hopefully someone else will chime in with other differences between the later cars and thing to watch out for. For reference, when I bought my car it was a one owner 66k mile garage kept car that is absolutely perfect inside and out, but even then I've been doing a lot of work to get it up to par mechanically. I did tensioners, valve cover gaskets, reparied rear view mirror, repaired the rear speaker, and a few other things I can't remember. Still need to update water pump, flush coolant, flush brake fluid, and there are some small leaks under the supercharger so that will be coming off over the winter.
Service history is very important so you can see what has been done. Being in the South no worries about rust which is awesome. Check the paint thoroughly, these cars did not have the best clear coat and it can blister easily if left out in the sun its entire life. Everything else is just normal used car stuff, make sure engine is quiet and smooth, trans shifts well (make sure J-gate works), and suspension is quiet and compliant.
Good luck, these are awesome cars. BRG is a fantastic color also, hope it works out well for you.
I'm not a Jag expert so hopefully someone else will chime in with other differences between the later cars and thing to watch out for. For reference, when I bought my car it was a one owner 66k mile garage kept car that is absolutely perfect inside and out, but even then I've been doing a lot of work to get it up to par mechanically. I did tensioners, valve cover gaskets, reparied rear view mirror, repaired the rear speaker, and a few other things I can't remember. Still need to update water pump, flush coolant, flush brake fluid, and there are some small leaks under the supercharger so that will be coming off over the winter.
Service history is very important so you can see what has been done. Being in the South no worries about rust which is awesome. Check the paint thoroughly, these cars did not have the best clear coat and it can blister easily if left out in the sun its entire life. Everything else is just normal used car stuff, make sure engine is quiet and smooth, trans shifts well (make sure J-gate works), and suspension is quiet and compliant.
Good luck, these are awesome cars. BRG is a fantastic color also, hope it works out well for you.
#4
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Glad to see you've decided to come slum with us gmacaz...![Icon Beerchug](https://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/images/smilies/icon_beerchug.gif)
The nikasil issue was primarily a high fuel sulfuric acid thing, which is long since been resolved. So it should be good to go.
So, keep in mind, as well as remind the seller,...that she is 25 yrs old.
Initial review would be...
**check the VIN applications, they are all over this car and easily seen. This way you can verify no accident replacements vs an accident history report.
**Front shock tower bushings...this will be obvious by orange crumble shavings on the wheel well, from deterioration. And if you see that you just look a little closer and you'll see the bushing falling apart.
**The standard for any car, grab the top of the front wheel and rock it as hard as you can and listen for any clunking...this could be wheeling bearings, control arms, tie rods...etc.
**Look at the transmission tube and see if there is a red lock clip on the cap. If not, its been gotten into for one thing or another to include basic service. There are readily available replaceable clips available, so it should of been replaced with standard service, if its had any. These 722.6's were originally listed as sealed for life.
**Pay attention at start up, hopefully its a cold start, if you hear a rattle sound like a knock and it goes away quickly. Don't fret too much, its probably the SC coupler that needs replaced. If he/she already had it running, you won't get that sound. You'll probably want to do the fluid anyways, but we can walk you through that later.
**If it's a cold start, she should come down to basic idle in about 30-45 seconds.
**Ask about the tensioners being replaced, ,,there's a thing in the stickies.
**Check the full load breather as well for build up and heavy oily residue. If it hasn't been changed, it may be quite brittle, so be careful.
** Be sure to check the key in the trunk key hole for function, these can seize up if not kept lubricated...that reminds me.![Icon Denk](https://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/images/smilies/icon_denk.gif)
**Also, for the driver door key hole, insert key, turn to the right and hold it, all the doors should unlock and windows roll down. Turn it back to the left, hold it, and the doors should all lock and windows roll up. This is a rarely used feature that many owners don't even know they have.
**Check for any corrosion on the battery terminal cables, if these cars are kept up with a battery tender, they will not corrode. If there is corrosion, you can get ghost codes.
**An offhand thing to look for, if the stereo is a Premium unit, it will have a "bass" speaker in the rear window deck, it looks like a pimple. These are notorious for disintegrating and not to easiest to quick check, except by applying bass with the head unit.
The list is obviously longer, as Bob eludes to. But for quick review of generally unchecked items, these are some to keep in mind. Btw, don't be afraid to make a list for review, it could help whiddle down the price if you show your crossing your T's. Oh, and you should have 3 keys, one being a green valet one, which is generally lost...mine was.
Good luck with her, and don't be afraid to ask anything you may find about her.
![Icon Beerchug](https://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/images/smilies/icon_beerchug.gif)
The nikasil issue was primarily a high fuel sulfuric acid thing, which is long since been resolved. So it should be good to go.
So, keep in mind, as well as remind the seller,...that she is 25 yrs old.
Initial review would be...
**check the VIN applications, they are all over this car and easily seen. This way you can verify no accident replacements vs an accident history report.
**Front shock tower bushings...this will be obvious by orange crumble shavings on the wheel well, from deterioration. And if you see that you just look a little closer and you'll see the bushing falling apart.
**The standard for any car, grab the top of the front wheel and rock it as hard as you can and listen for any clunking...this could be wheeling bearings, control arms, tie rods...etc.
**Look at the transmission tube and see if there is a red lock clip on the cap. If not, its been gotten into for one thing or another to include basic service. There are readily available replaceable clips available, so it should of been replaced with standard service, if its had any. These 722.6's were originally listed as sealed for life.
**Pay attention at start up, hopefully its a cold start, if you hear a rattle sound like a knock and it goes away quickly. Don't fret too much, its probably the SC coupler that needs replaced. If he/she already had it running, you won't get that sound. You'll probably want to do the fluid anyways, but we can walk you through that later.
**If it's a cold start, she should come down to basic idle in about 30-45 seconds.
**Ask about the tensioners being replaced, ,,there's a thing in the stickies.
**Check the full load breather as well for build up and heavy oily residue. If it hasn't been changed, it may be quite brittle, so be careful.
** Be sure to check the key in the trunk key hole for function, these can seize up if not kept lubricated...that reminds me.
![Icon Denk](https://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/images/smilies/icon_denk.gif)
**Also, for the driver door key hole, insert key, turn to the right and hold it, all the doors should unlock and windows roll down. Turn it back to the left, hold it, and the doors should all lock and windows roll up. This is a rarely used feature that many owners don't even know they have.
**Check for any corrosion on the battery terminal cables, if these cars are kept up with a battery tender, they will not corrode. If there is corrosion, you can get ghost codes.
**An offhand thing to look for, if the stereo is a Premium unit, it will have a "bass" speaker in the rear window deck, it looks like a pimple. These are notorious for disintegrating and not to easiest to quick check, except by applying bass with the head unit.
The list is obviously longer, as Bob eludes to. But for quick review of generally unchecked items, these are some to keep in mind. Btw, don't be afraid to make a list for review, it could help whiddle down the price if you show your crossing your T's. Oh, and you should have 3 keys, one being a green valet one, which is generally lost...mine was.
Good luck with her, and don't be afraid to ask anything you may find about her.
Last edited by Highhorse; 08-19-2022 at 09:00 AM.
#5
#6
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First oft to everyone so far thanks for the pointers, I actually looked at the stickies after the posting and I see the one from Jim is a pretty good and extensive one. I also appreciate everyones 2 cents worth and it amazes me how much knowledge there is to be shared.I am going to print out the sticky and everyones replies and take them with me if I get to see the car on Sunday.
Some of the larger ticket items seem to be, timing tensioners (what are these like to do), good look at suspension/tires etc, check transmission (is it actually sealed for life?), water pump.
I plan on asking the gentleman to not start the vehicle prior to me getting there so as it is a cold start.
The funny thing is I usually look at cars on line early in the morning, however the other day I was a bit later doing so and this actually popped up as I was perusing. Contacted the gentleman who was flying out of town on business that afternoon, he was actually shocked at the quick reply, six minutes, thought that he would post and see if any response by Sunday when he returned. Hence he will contact me on Sunday and hopefully we can arrange a time. I did get a look at photos of the car on line, BRG, 67k, garaged, one owner, did look good except for a little wear on the side of the drivers seat leather, probably getting in and out. He says it has a full service history so I will have a good look through for some of the big ticket items especially. He actually took the ad down afterwards temporarily so I can't see the pictures at this time.
I am fairly proficient with the spanners, do all the work to the XJS myself, always seems part of the fun in owning classic cars to me, although can't say in depth electrical is my thing.
On a general note I believe the XJ8 in really good condition is a seriously underrated classic, and the XJR in particular will be highly sought after, a supercar almost in sheeps clothing in my eyes, which is why I have been looking for one. The Jag(s) are not used on a daily basis, in fact the xjs is sorely under used but over cosseted.
Highhorse, I would be glad to slum it over here on the dark side if I purchase this car. LOL
Well, I am going to make some lists now in anticipation of the viewing, if anyone else can think of anything else please chip in, it is always appreciated.
I will check in frequently until Sunday and then whatever happens I will update everyone sometime at the beginning of next week, as a lot of guys say on the MG forum it didn't happen unless there are photos so I will try and get some if possible whichever way it goes.
Once again thanks for all the tips and keep them coming.
Some of the larger ticket items seem to be, timing tensioners (what are these like to do), good look at suspension/tires etc, check transmission (is it actually sealed for life?), water pump.
I plan on asking the gentleman to not start the vehicle prior to me getting there so as it is a cold start.
The funny thing is I usually look at cars on line early in the morning, however the other day I was a bit later doing so and this actually popped up as I was perusing. Contacted the gentleman who was flying out of town on business that afternoon, he was actually shocked at the quick reply, six minutes, thought that he would post and see if any response by Sunday when he returned. Hence he will contact me on Sunday and hopefully we can arrange a time. I did get a look at photos of the car on line, BRG, 67k, garaged, one owner, did look good except for a little wear on the side of the drivers seat leather, probably getting in and out. He says it has a full service history so I will have a good look through for some of the big ticket items especially. He actually took the ad down afterwards temporarily so I can't see the pictures at this time.
I am fairly proficient with the spanners, do all the work to the XJS myself, always seems part of the fun in owning classic cars to me, although can't say in depth electrical is my thing.
On a general note I believe the XJ8 in really good condition is a seriously underrated classic, and the XJR in particular will be highly sought after, a supercar almost in sheeps clothing in my eyes, which is why I have been looking for one. The Jag(s) are not used on a daily basis, in fact the xjs is sorely under used but over cosseted.
Highhorse, I would be glad to slum it over here on the dark side if I purchase this car. LOL
Well, I am going to make some lists now in anticipation of the viewing, if anyone else can think of anything else please chip in, it is always appreciated.
I will check in frequently until Sunday and then whatever happens I will update everyone sometime at the beginning of next week, as a lot of guys say on the MG forum it didn't happen unless there are photos so I will try and get some if possible whichever way it goes.
Once again thanks for all the tips and keep them coming.
#7
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with the exception of the crank pulley bolt and pulley removal, a full tensioner replacement is not a difficult job. Just doing secondaries is even easier. That said, there are just a ton of parts on these cars that will likely need replacement. There are about a bazillion coolant hoses, including two under the supercharger that need to be replaced if not due to mileage, than due to age. Add to that plastic lines, valve cover gaskets, bushings, rubber mounts, etc etc.
Another side note, a lot of AJ26 (1998 and 1998) engine parts are NLA and hard to find, so something to consider.
I will say its a pretty easy car to work on, but I've had to do a LOT more than I had bargained for.
Another side note, a lot of AJ26 (1998 and 1998) engine parts are NLA and hard to find, so something to consider.
I will say its a pretty easy car to work on, but I've had to do a LOT more than I had bargained for.
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#8
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@gmacaz I agree that these XJRs will most likely go up in value as they are appreciated by more people. Actually they're already doing so. I bought my first, a 2003 XJR, in 2019 and it was dirt cheap compared to the 1998 XJR I recently purchased.
As quadcammer said, there really are a ton of things that will need replacement over the next few years if they don't already. As I said earlier, my car is pretty much identical to yours as far as mileage, previous care, history, etc. and it really does need a lot. It's 100% driveable and I use it often at the moment, but there are a lot of things I've already done and more than will need doing just do to age. Coolant hoses are a big one that I forgot in my previous post along with vacuum lines, suspension bushings, etc. Good news is these cars are actually fairly simple to work on and it can be enjoyable. Especially if its not an every day car and down time won't bother you. I'm planning on driving mine through the fall and in the winter the supercharger will come off to replace hoses, water pump, and possible primary tensioners and guides (I only did secondaries when I first got the car). It definitely sounds like you have the right midset to own an XJR, and if you work on your XJS already you'll be just fine with the x308.
As quadcammer said, there really are a ton of things that will need replacement over the next few years if they don't already. As I said earlier, my car is pretty much identical to yours as far as mileage, previous care, history, etc. and it really does need a lot. It's 100% driveable and I use it often at the moment, but there are a lot of things I've already done and more than will need doing just do to age. Coolant hoses are a big one that I forgot in my previous post along with vacuum lines, suspension bushings, etc. Good news is these cars are actually fairly simple to work on and it can be enjoyable. Especially if its not an every day car and down time won't bother you. I'm planning on driving mine through the fall and in the winter the supercharger will come off to replace hoses, water pump, and possible primary tensioners and guides (I only did secondaries when I first got the car). It definitely sounds like you have the right midset to own an XJR, and if you work on your XJS already you'll be just fine with the x308.
#9
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Here's the full tensioner replacement procedure from the How To section below the Stickies, ..compliments of blackonyx... Tmingi chain and tensioner replacement
#10
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Just be aware that when purchasing a 25 year old car, no matter the mileage, rubber hoses,
vacuum lines, and plastic parts have deteriorated. Electrical connections may have become
corroded, and grounds may not be as good as desired. Sophisticated cars require a more
analytic approach than your average driver so attention to detail is paramount. A good example
will bring a smile to your face every time you drive her down the road and one with multiple
problems just needs a little help to become a good example.
vacuum lines, and plastic parts have deteriorated. Electrical connections may have become
corroded, and grounds may not be as good as desired. Sophisticated cars require a more
analytic approach than your average driver so attention to detail is paramount. A good example
will bring a smile to your face every time you drive her down the road and one with multiple
problems just needs a little help to become a good example.
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87LC2 (08-20-2022)
#11
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If the seller cannot prove that third gen tensioners have been installed, then you need to assume that they have not been, and that you will need to do this repair. You’ll want to negotiate the price accordingly. Second gen doesn’t count. Has to be third generation. Preferably, the primary guides and tensioners would have been done at the same time, but they will last longer than the original secondaries.
#12
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Hi again to everyone, just an update on the 98 xjr. Unfortunately the family decided not to sell the car, disappointing for sure, I was looking forward to being on the dark side.
A big thank you to all who replied, as ever this forums members never cease to amaze me with their knowledge and willingness to pass it on.
I have printed all the replies and the sticky for future reference, as the search will continue quietly on.
I will have to revert back to the XJS side for now but will visit the dark side intermittently to try and learn more about this supercar in sheep's clothing.
Until the next one crops up for sale and I need some more tips, many thanks.
Gary M
A big thank you to all who replied, as ever this forums members never cease to amaze me with their knowledge and willingness to pass it on.
I have printed all the replies and the sticky for future reference, as the search will continue quietly on.
I will have to revert back to the XJS side for now but will visit the dark side intermittently to try and learn more about this supercar in sheep's clothing.
Until the next one crops up for sale and I need some more tips, many thanks.
Gary M
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Highhorse (08-23-2022)
#13
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#14
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Hi again to everyone, just an update on the 98 xjr. Unfortunately the family decided not to sell the car, disappointing for sure, I was looking forward to being on the dark side.
A big thank you to all who replied, as ever this forums members never cease to amaze me with their knowledge and willingness to pass it on.
I have printed all the replies and the sticky for future reference, as the search will continue quietly on.
I will have to revert back to the XJS side for now but will visit the dark side intermittently to try and learn more about this supercar in sheep's clothing.
Until the next one crops up for sale and I need some more tips, many thanks.
Gary M
A big thank you to all who replied, as ever this forums members never cease to amaze me with their knowledge and willingness to pass it on.
I have printed all the replies and the sticky for future reference, as the search will continue quietly on.
I will have to revert back to the XJS side for now but will visit the dark side intermittently to try and learn more about this supercar in sheep's clothing.
Until the next one crops up for sale and I need some more tips, many thanks.
Gary M
#16
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Hi again everyone, yes I did leave them my details etc. just in case they change their minds. I will also keep swatting up on the model in antisipation.
There is a really nice 05 vanden plas with approx 59k one owner for sale locally, in my favorite color of dark blue, its a bit more than I was looking to pay but sorely tempting to go and look at, but I really would like an R version.
I will let you guys know if I do.
Gary M
There is a really nice 05 vanden plas with approx 59k one owner for sale locally, in my favorite color of dark blue, its a bit more than I was looking to pay but sorely tempting to go and look at, but I really would like an R version.
I will let you guys know if I do.
Gary M
#17
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Hi again everyone, yes I did leave them my details etc. just in case they change their minds. I will also keep swatting up on the model in antisipation.
There is a really nice 05 vanden plas with approx 59k one owner for sale locally, in my favorite color of dark blue, its a bit more than I was looking to pay but sorely tempting to go and look at, but I really would like an R version.
I will let you guys know if I do.
Gary M
There is a really nice 05 vanden plas with approx 59k one owner for sale locally, in my favorite color of dark blue, its a bit more than I was looking to pay but sorely tempting to go and look at, but I really would like an R version.
I will let you guys know if I do.
Gary M
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