Just Bought the car.guy said needed timing redone.never heard it run.had the updated timing set, gaskets and all special tools. Got it all torn down to replace timing components and found 3 drivers side intake cam hold down clamp were off due to bolts broke..timing chains were all tight but replaced all with the updated kit and fix the cam.got it all together and wouldn't start. Found the fuel pumps to be bad.replaced both with aftermarket pumps but wouldn't stay running unless I jumped both fp relays so both pumps stay on and idled good but I found it has a rod knock and sounds like its the front cylinder on passenger side.
question is what are my options.car has 170k miles.I dont want to get a used engine. I want to rebuild this one.where can I get a crankshaft for it cause im pretty sure its gonna end up beeing bad.and if I can get a crank for it will I still beable to use the stock mains and rod bearings coded on the block?

 

Welcome Jrp79, to check the clearance for your rods and main caps, use this Measuring bearing clearance with Plastigauge
From what you write it sounds like someone dumped a project on you that they got running enough to get rid of it after they figured out they didn't know what they were doing and/or just ran the **** out of it....good luck.

 

[QUOTfound 3 drivers side intake cam hold down clamp were off due to bolts broke.E][/QUOTE]

Was it because they over tightened the cam bolts that they broke or did they break when the engine was running?? I'd be very interested to see what those cam journals look like. If they over tightened the bolts and they broke, that I can understand. If the engine was running and they broke, I'd say stay away from rebuilding that engine because it sounds like a lot more is going on than just a rod bearing.

​​​​​​​Just my 2 cents.

 

Might have been over tighten. The cam journals and lobes all looked good with no nicks.looked like normal wear.im thinking they may of replaced the chains thinking the knock was from that and broke the bolts to the cam caps then left it

 

if the main and all but that one rod bearing check out good can the crank be reground and over size bearing be bought

 

That depends on what wear there is on that rod/journal or the other bearings. If there is any purplish color or grooved, its toast, it'll be cheaper to get another crank.
Are you sure the noise is from the journal or could it be piston slap?
Also, were the bolts sheared off and were the nut heads in the head? I'm concerned if they went down into pan, along with the little bits with them, and may have caused the knock?

 

ill be taking it apart tomorrow and hopefully by the weekend the motor will be pulled.when I took the cover off all the heads of the bolts were there still in the caps.I beleive its a rod cause from time to time it sounds like metal to metal rubbing and im familure with rod and main bearing knocks and piston pin slap.the noise is coming from the bottom beleive its the #1 cylinder.only started it once to hear and revs up got louder and let off the throttle and went away untill it idled.

 

rod knock does not mean the end of a crank! if the bearings are still intact, the rod knock is usually from the rod slapping the backside of the bearing as it has spun from it's "locked" position. Usually a small grind or polish should get you back in business. If the machine shop has to turn the crank, they will the minimum and you just order the bigger bearings. Definitely invest in magnafulx'ing the crank after anything like that.