Stopped for fuel on the way to work. Car was running fine. When I started the car after fueling, car although in park, crept forward slightly and when selector placed in drive, would not move without seeming to slip. Got "Gearbox Fault".


Code reader reads P1722 and P1111. The list of OBD-II codes from Jag Lovers site stops in the P1600's.


Anyone know what the P1722 code is?

 

https://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/x...-1722-a-83883/

 

P1722 Possible Causes:
Transmission oil level low
Selector cable adjustment / installation incorrect
Output speed sensor problem
(Refer to P0721 Possible Causes)

P0721 Possible Causes:
Transmission to TCM output speed sensor
circuit open circuit, short circuit or high resistance
Transmission to TCM output speed sensor circuit shielding defective
Transmission internal output speed sensor circuit open circuit, short circuit or high
resistance
Output speed sensor failure
Transmission mechanical failure

Sounds either pretty simple or really expensive

 

I don't see any evidence of fluid leak.


I remember reading a post that says fluid level has to be checked while the engine is running. If so, what level for the fluid should be present with the filler plug removed?


I want to start by cleaning the contacts for the gearbox wiring connector, but I can't figure how it releases. Anyone removed the plug before?


I did not see anything loose with the selector lever at the gearbox.

 

The transmission is supposed to be hot- and the fluid should be to the bottom of the fill plug- in other words, dripping out. The hot tranny and the location of the filler plug make it sort of dicey. I loosened the plug, lightly snugged it back, ran it, got the car up approximately level, then did the fill check. I doubt you are coding from a minor fill level variation.

 

I had bought the car from a transmission repair shop when prior owner could not or would not pay the bill for the rebuild at 139,000 miles. However, it ran fine and shifted fine until I stopped for gas.


I still think corrosion in the wiring connector is the best place to start. I will look at the connector again with a flashlight and mirror to see if I can see the connector release.

 

limp it over to the selling transmission shop and ask them to check out their repair . . .

 

Been over two years. Rebuild is out of warrantee.

 

With the car on jack stands loosened plug with the engine running trans in park. Not to temp, but fluid seeping from the threads as I loosened the plug.


Does not appear to be fluid level.


I am still trying to figure out how to unplug the wiring harness at the Trans where it connects in order to clean it with contact cleaners.

 

Some person more skilled than me posted a drawing when I asked the question last year. The lock is a ring with a tab at the joint, and I believe it rotates up 90 deg or more to unlock. It's so hard to see up there that I couldn't find it on my own. Besides, it seems like every connector on the car is a different design.

 

RJ you are close, it rotates 1/4 turn CCW.


Cleaned with contact cleaner and applied silicon grease before reconnecting.


Did a Hard Reset for extra measure, but fault is still present as soon as putting it in gear.


I will limp over to the shop that rebuilt the trans. If they want too much to repair, I can buy a used trans with a 1 year warantee for $,1000


I,m not going to get off cheap

 

I decided to look at the J shifter since linkage adjustment was one of the thinks listed above.


I found that apparently prior owner or repair shop had done some repair as two of the four screws securing the "turntable" were loose.


On the NA non SC cars bracket 23 in the attached exploded view has two micro switches with levers. The switch at Neutral position is secured by rivets, is loose and the lever is missing. I assume it is supposed to have a lever as it is shown with a lever in the exploded parts view.


I am going to contact some parts salvagers to see if I can get the whole shifter since mine is showing its age.


I got the exploded view from the post about the Linear switch for the XJR discussion.

 

Got a used shifter from Coventry West and installed it this weekend. My microswitch for the Neutral position was loose and the lever missing. Both switches were intact on the "new" shifter. After adjusting the fore and aft of the cable housing until the shifter was bind free, I found that I still have the problem.


24mm wrench for the nuts for the cable housing. 10mm for the nut securing the cable to the shift lever. 11mm fits flats on the cable housing.


So I will have to resort to bringing it to the Trans shop where I bought the car. I will post an update in about two weeks.

 

Has anyone dealt with an Output Speed Sensor problem on this type of trans?


Suggestion on how to check it?

 

I brought the car back to the transmission shop where I bought the car. Trans was pulled and disassembled to examine components. Attached is a photo showing the failure on the inner of the two drums shown. The space between the two have the stack of clutch rings seen in the photo just above the technician's forearm. The rings are stacked with alternating inner and outer teeth. What you have is a snap ring that fits into a groove that is made by crimping the corrugations during the manufacture. Whereas the outer drum has two ring grooves, the inner has only one groove. Once the crack started, it spread from corrugation to corrugation until it was about 160 degrees of the circumference. Look closely and you can see how the edge of the corrugations have bent out.


An upgraded drum has now been installed, but driving the car home following the initial problem and then about 12 miles to the trans shop allowed slipping clutches to burn requiring more parts to have to be replaced.


If you have a choice, forget limp home mode in order to minimize the damage.