Had to check I was still on the X308 forum... What is so difficult about removing/refitting the brake switch ???


It is 1 multi plug and 1 nut and bolt to remove, to refit just rest your head on the peddle to hold it down slightly, locate the switch into position, insert bolt, do up the nut. 30 mins at most, 1 hour if you include making and drinking a cup of tea.


Now if it was an X100 XK8/R, that is totally different, as that requires a combination of contortion/ dexterity/ witchcraft and good luck to refit...


I sincerely hope that the person(s) that designed the fitment has to spend the rest of eternity removing/ refitting the bloody thing.

 

MIA most of the past weekend -- Party etc with grandkids, and time to do SWMBO items. Now Back to the beast.

Going into town today it happened 4 times to me. Same ol solution, key on and off till it resets. Some times I'd make it less the 100 yards, sometimes a few miles. Coming home this evening, would you believe 6 times, one less than 50ft from the last one.
All at various speeds and throttle positions...

Was able to make it thru town and the Indian farm area before I lost my cool when it happened again. I pounded the top of the dash, behind the wheel 3-4-5 maybe more - yes, more - times; did the key on/off reset and headed down the crowded 4-laner to home, dreading every mile. Ran Flawlessly! Maybe there is a loose /dirty connector behind the dash - iirc, the CAN bus flows to all modules from the dash, so I'm going to take a look see tomorrow.

Questions etc time ---
1 - Much mention of WD40 - which I didn't use, I used electronic cleaner, as WD is hygroscopic and leaves a residue, .... or is it something special about WD40. I think I will do them all again with WD40 and then a quick clean-up spray with the Elect. cleaner.

2 - The brake switch -- Since Andrew Lowe has posted the removal steps - easier than I thought - and I will do a full clean of it. And hook up my VOM to check out resistance etc. I will put it on my list to ask Greg to swap in a known good one as a test on Thursday when the lady gets taken in.

3 - The TPS -- Which one is it? the one on the end of the TB, or the one by thr cable connection end.

4 - Is it possible for the TB 'stuff' to fail without throwing codes? Jag shop has the full Jag OBD analyser and tweaker - and they couldn't find a single code. Could my constant key on/off/on reset be clearing the code out

5 - Cruise control - Don't use it in my regular driving, hasn't been used in probably 6-8 months.

6 - Yes, all tires the same size - match set -- but could an out of balance / out of round tire cause this or would the ABS light come on is something was amiss, or at least a code

7- MAF - by the air filter, right? I'll R&C tomorrow.

8 - Yes, trust my Mechanical crew -- they've been miracle worker on Tranny, Dif, Waterpump /tower and a CEL that wouldn't go away (bad ground on purge valve) and they'll be using a hand-held unit when they're driving. Got nothing to lose, everything to gain...

Lastly, than you gentlemen for bearing with me, offering suggestions, experience, advice. It's helped in stopping panic mode!!!!


Ken

 

Am I right in that the TB removal only involves 2 plugs, one air hose and the throttle cable and 4 easy access bolts? Will do a quick clean tomorrow if that's the case..


thanks

Ken

 

I used WD40 on blind faith based on other post successes.

Awesome!

I hope I qualified tire mismatch well enough as being a WAG on my part.

Excellent. You're lucky.

Good luck with your crew and I hope it turns out to be a no-brainer in the end. If the brake light switch doesn't fix it, then I hope it's something just as silly.

 

My TPS fault didn't throw codes for months before we were able to catch it in the act.
The most common thing I noticed was that it would almost always occur at low or no throttle. Always fun when you overtake someone, then back off the throttle and your car goes into failsafe
Idling at stop signs was another fun time.

The issue can be related to the plugs, it's a good idea to clean the contacts etc, but the real problem is more likely inside the sensor. There are HEAPS of other threads out there with info on this, including in the XK forum, where I found this
https://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/x...hipped-132556/

Not 100% sure it will be of any help, but worth reading anyway.

For the record, I went with an ASI rebuild and couldn't be happier, but it wasn't the cheapest option

 

Grandell, your post triggered a thought or two -- covered later...

So, all connectors recleaned and reassembled. Brake switch out, clean as can be insode, but cleaned it anyway - WD40 them electronic cleaner. Worked a bit on trying to remove the dash -- couldn't, so checked and reseated all the conectors I could get to. Wend for a run on the 4-lane country road.
1st pass up and down was at speed limit - and no problems... Was thinking then about Grandell's comment about light throttle pressure, so I experimented. Up to 65, and then just a light, feather touch on the throttle - enough to allow it to slowly slow down, but at a v slow rate... At about 35 mph, it happened. Pulled over; let it idle 3-4 minutes, Key off /on - reset the first time and was off trying to replicate this. 17 miles later still hadn't been able to, no problems, so Home I came...


In the posts I've seen ASI mentioned as rebuilders, so I've taken my first look at their site. Impressive, esp. if it's a -good-as-new rebuild. Any experience with them around? I've only seen 1 post mentioning them so I'm curious.

In the XKR (I think) list, mention was made of a plug compatible TPS used on an Italian Motorcycle. Any experience there?

Thanks a bunch


Ken

 

ASI repaired my ECM, others also. Several members have used them for throttle body rebuild, one with problem, others good results.

It really sounds like you're in need of a rebuild. Leave the WD40 on the shelf and use contact cleaner.

 

One of the joys of this forum layout, there are multiple threads on the same issue, but if they've fallen off the first page, they can be very hard to find, especially if you're trying to search on a three letter term.

Try searching for Throttle Body, Throttle Position Sensor, LNE1560BA, and.... um... whatever the common error code is. Can't remember what it is off the top of my head, sorry

Oh, and regarding the Ducati TPS, I think someone else mentioned the part number was slightly different. Without testing it yourself, I'd be VERY surprised if the part was 100% compatible. There are so many tiny variables they could have changed inside the sensor from one application to another that I wouldn't risk it.

 

Try checking the 2 TSB's at the top of this Forum for the TPS connections problem
(TSB 303-58-2)and cleaning the Engine Part-Load breather(TSB 600-03).

Regards,
Bob
P O R (Press On Regardless)

 

Mixed feeling last Thursday as the lady was hauled up on to the flatbed for her trip to the Mechanics. Haven't heard anything yet - which is both good and bad - but expect to this week.

Then we weigh costs and probabilities of permanent fixes and go from there.

Any codes found, any suggested /probable failure points, and I'll post here for Archive purposes...

Sort of mixed feelings about all of this...


Ken

 

Brought the beast home yesterday afternoon. 9 days at the Mechanic's, where it was driven about 350 miles, by 5-6 different staff members with a variety of driving styles, in town, parkways, freeways, city streets....
and....

Nothing happened. Nothing. No codes, no problems, no warning lights, nada.

Don't know whether to be happy that I may have fixed it, or apprehensive that the problem is lurking still, just waiting for an oportunity to bite me on the bum when I least expect it......

Glad to have it back, but a little hesitant to use it as the go'fer car in picking grandies up from school and running them around - don't want the boyos in it if I suddenly crap out on a busy freeway or road.

I'll keep you posted - and when, or perhaps if ever, it throws a code I'll let you know.

Once again, thanks for all the info, help support -- greatly appreciated.

Ken

 

Dont'cha know it! So they did nothing at all to it then? Still, 350 miles without any issues is a pretty darn strong testament that something got addressed, eh? If it were mine, I'd call that fixed. But I hear ya.

Not to jinx you or anything, but I'd say somewhere in the voltage delivery house 'o cards, you had a dirty something or other, and through all the cleaning you did, you got it. I'd also venture to guess that the lights, errors you saw immediately afterwards were just ghosts that took a while to clear out.

I'll be the optimist for ya! Good luck and keep the forum posted.

 

Status update ---

Just clocked over a thousand miles (mostly trips to / from town to help out with sick grandies) and it's still going strong, no faults, failures or issues. So I'm moving up from 'cautiously optimistic' to 'optimistic' that the problem is solved..

My biggest issue right now is cleaning up a coffee (yes, with cream and sugar) from the pass. seat. The lid wasn't on properly, the corner was a bit faster than it should've been, and those bl**dy cup holders are next to useless in holding anything but a cell phone...

Thank yet again!

Ken

 

azkiwi,
I have the same issues in my 99 XJ8. (Including those damn cup holders!) The frustrating part is that I just got the car back from my mechanic with a second A-drum in 4 months. (He fixed the second time under warranty). For three-four blissful days that car ran beautifully. Then the dreaded stability/fault mode happened. The question I have for you is that between your last failed test drive and hauling her off to your mechanic, you didn't mention what additional fixes you tried.

One problem I have in mine is a cracked air pump hose. I ordered a new one but in the meantime, I duct taped it up as good as I can. My wife drove to the store twice with no issues, so I'm thinking it has something to do with the MAF. Still haven't put it through the tests though. Gonna do some cleaning tomorrow and see what happens. Hopefully the new hose gets here by Monday.

The tab on the MAF connector is broken off,but the connection seems pretty tight so hopefully no issues there.

 

Hi XJ8L -- and welcome to the world of the care and feeding of Jags.
I noticed you've got several issues going on at once - not a nice place to be. From experience with old(er) Jag's (a number of Series 3's), I suggest working on the easier issues - the physical problems, first - one never knows, and at best it may fix things, at worst it is removing problematic items from the equation. You don't mention if your fail modes are the same as mine were, the 'Stability Control Failure' and 'Engine Failsafe mode'.
In my case, I think the SCF was a red herring, this is usually from a flattish tire or other tire issue, or a wheel speed /ABS issue - which if ABS related, should've thrown a code and turned on the warning light -- it didn't.

Most of the advice, and most of the work, was connector related. Altho WD40 was mentioned, I didn't use it. I used Brake cleaner and Carb cleaner and I went to Radio Shack and got a spray can of electronic cleaner and lube (all in one).

I did the MAF connector, all connectors for the throttle body, and lastly the brake light etc switch. The advice given me was it was a toughie to remove -- It wasn't really tough, just quite awkward. Required being in odd positions on back etc, with arms over head. If you're flexible or a gymnast it'd be somewhat easier. While it was out and being cleaned, I used some Hi temp electrical grease to lube the push rods to the micro switches, used a dental pic to move the rubber seal a little and just put a tiny amount in it and hand operated it for about 5-8 minutes while i sat in my chair watching the weather forecast!

I had little faith that I'd fixed it with these actions, hence the flatbed ride, but, as mentioned, the Mech staff had an NTF, and I've driven it almost 2700 miles with nothing happening.

Hope this helps / answers your question(s)

Ken

 

I cleaned the connections on the throttle body,TPS, etc., any other connection I could get my hands on under the hood, at the false firewall and battery connections. Seemed to do the trick. And yes, I was getting the same fault messages you were. Thanks for the thread, your troubleshooting along with all the other posters was invaluable.