I bought a 2003 XJ sport two days ago. I brought the car back to the dealer (Foreign Affairs Auto, West Palm Beach FL) to fix an issue with the trunk: it only opened with the key. Apparently a pinched wire prevented the key fob/release button from working.

That seemed to reset the car: I had to re-enter the radio unlock code and reset my seat memory. At some point on the way home, the car threw the ABS light/ASC failure/No trac lights. I bring the car back. After 90 minutes, the sales guy from two days ago and the service director sit me down a la "your child has cancer" and presented me with an estimate for $2500 to replace the ABS pump and module ($1800 parts, $400 labor, some taxes). They offered to waive $400 in labor charges.

I was...distraught and dismissed them. That seems galling having paid $13k (all in) and two days later getting a bill for $2500. In the meantime I searched the forum and found out about the soldering repair in the module

When I asked about opening that and doing soldering/cleaning, the service director looked confused and asked another chap. Answer, "We could try that, it would be 1 hour in labor." So I booked in for tomorrow.

IMPORTANT EDIT: I forgot to mention that when they handed the car back to me, the car did not throw a fault on the drive home, even after a pit stop for another errand (ie shutting the car off, then coming back later). This fault is thus intermittent.

This whole affair feels like a screw job - jumping to the most expensive fix. Even worse, I can find ABS module/pump set ups on ebay for about $300.

Any tips? (I don't have tools and soldering equipment on me).

 

Here's a good ABS solder repair video on Youtube you may want to refer your dealership guys too.



There are services where you buy a reconditioned unit then send in yours for a discount/core fee.

Or you can just have it removed & sent in to one of the rebuild services. I agree that's a grueling shot to take especially after just shelling out good money for the car. I can say that the soldering fix has worked for me in the past.

Godspeed

 

Put this in perspective: it is a 13 year old, used car.

 

the acs/trac failure yellow light message can be thrown for a number of reasons, most notably a dodgy battery. I would advise first at least try and get some stored codes and start from there.
Poor ground straps/low battery voltage or loose terminals/dirty abs sensors maybe, if you're handy with a spanner do some research and start the checks before laying out on expensive parts.
Invest in a cheap OBD2 scanner and try and narrow it down.
Regarding the trunk release its a common problem - the trunk wiring harness rides on the RH hinge which over time destroys the wires. I had to resolder nearly all of mine together (cut/splice/solder/shrink wrap etc...).
Welcome to XJ8 ownership !

 

A cheap scanner will not read abs codes, but a Jag dealer or indy with the proper software can. The code for the pump connection is C1095. There is no need to replace the module. Ask them for the code.

As mentioned, it is a solder job that you or a appliance repairman can handle. Just today a car I thought I had permanently fixed a year ago turned up with the same code, and my own XJ6 took two attempts to get right, so it's not always easy as some would make you think. I'm not inexperienced when it comes to solder connections.

 

Another thought in line with kyle04: ask that they delete the code and see if it repeats. A weak battery will often throw that code, but if it reocurres with the battery charged it's probably legit.

 

I have an OBDII scanner. No fault codes were present when scanned. No stored codes were present. I didn't expect to find any, as my research seems to suggest that ABS codes are not OBDII codes.

The battery is 8 years old, according to the (utterly extensive) car fax service records. I suspected the battery, but a pre-purchase inspection last week OK'ed the battery. Also, Foreign Affairs assured me that the battery "would have been tested first". I am debating whether or not to replace the battery - it might cure the problem and the battery is 8 years old anyway (oddly, the 2004 XJ in my sig that I sold also did the abs fault at purchase).

Put this in perspective: I paid a premium for this car versus other 308s due to its low mileage and service record. The fault was thrown no more 10-15 minutes after leaving the dealer's repair shop for an electrical issue (possibly much earlier). They're quoting me $1800 for two used parts with a combined value of $$150-$500 on ebay. They fed me some story about the parts costing $5700 new from the dealer.

King Charles: I will keep a link to the video handy on my phone.

They did delete the codes after each of the two "goes" at the car. The final one seems to have worked...for now. The car didn't throw a fault on the ride home, including a second trip involving shutting the car down and re-starting. I also threw in some "hard" driving because, why the hell not?

 

I suggest you find another repair center. They seem to know very little about X-308s if they did not know about the ABS motor leads. As far as I now, every X308 will experience this given enough time! All three of mine have!

As reported above, a low battery can also set that code intermittently. And an eight year old battery is either shot, or soon will be, so especially if you depend on others to do your work, it would be wise to replace it on your schedule, not when it decides to leave you stranded!

And, just for the record, where do you live? I ask because your car in West Palm Beach FL, USA should not have radio codes, but one in Aukland, at least the Aukland I know, would.

 

I have permanently returned to the US and relocated (temporarily?) to Palm Beach County. The radio code thing is weird, as I also understand that that's not supposed to happen with US cars - however, it's not my highest priority problem. Although who knows what that indicates.

I am taking the car today to Firestone to have the battery tested/replaced.

 

Good start!

 

Update: I went to Firestone and had the battery tested. The test went exceptionally, and they couldn't believe it was 8 years old, even recommending against a new one. Here is a photo of the test results I suspect that the battery may have been replaced recently. They did mention corrosion on the terminals, so I had that cleaned up and coated for $13.

The car had three trips today absent any fault light. Yay. Nonetheless, I had taken it back to Foreign Affairs for a cleaning. I asked about opening the ABS module for a re-solder, earning a look of confusion mixed with "he's insane." After waiting till 11:30 after arriving at 9:40 for a 10:00 appointment, the one half-way decent service director at last asked if the lights came on since yesterday. After hearing that they didn't, he was unwilling to work on the car. By this point, I was equally eager to get the hell out.

FYI: They pulled a C1095 code yesterday.

My provisional verdict: They triggered an electrical glitch/gremlin when fixing the electronic boot/trunk unlock.

After their eagerness to sell me $2000 in repairs in a stunning display of failing to stand behind their product, followed by the half-hearted acceptance of a more cost effective solution, to the 2 hour wait followed with "we'd rather not..." I am never going near this place again. They might be great for Mercedes/BMW (virtually every car they sell or service), but I'd heartily recommend any Jaguar owner in South Florida use someone else. If I settle here (primary plan was/is to go to DC) or have an issue in the near term, I am going to try Jag Repairs in Pompano Beach.

I had myself and witnessed with others a far more straightforward/less BS approach at the Firestone in Boynton Beach

 

Sounds about right for that lot.

 

Sounds like disconnecting the battery to clean the post of corrosion cleared the issue. Same as a hard reset.

 

Could be a link harness. Light will probably come back on.

 

Maybe. Maybe not. If it does, I will go somewhere else. Edit: Would is be due to a failure of the wire/harness or merely a cleaning issue? If it is the latter, I imagine I could do that myself.

 

If the car REALLY had a C1095, it IS the pump motor connector, and it WILL come back.

 

Generally it's a failed wire. You might have more than one fault.

I've just finished an XKR with ABS/TRAC lights. Customer had tried replacement ECU, light still on.

I opened his old one and found dry joints but not the pump ones ( when I later checked these were for Nsf wheel speed sensor circuit ) . I attempted a repair, refitted and tested no lights. He drove it for a day light came back on. I read codes, Nsf wheel speed sensor circuit. Someone had repaired harness. I replaced harness. Drove it, light came back on. Swapped with my ABS ECU all good.

We then refitted his replacement one. He phoned me to tell me it's all good.

Basically he had 2 problems bringing the same code. I also refitted a vac pipe that was bringing on his CEL. He's now happy.

 

Basically, take it to someone who knows what they are doing.

 

/thread

For all I know, they/Foreign Affairs could have drained the battery. (I noticed they had the headlights on for the duration of their work - in the open air - in sunny Florida at 11 AM.

 

Personally -- I would never drive on a 8 year old battery ... regardless of it's condition. Batteries can be fine one day and dead the next. But, that's me.

Next problem. Dealers work on new cars ... as time goes by the mechanics see less and less of the older cars ... Only one of the dealers I frequent has any long term history with older Jaguars. Dealers don't fix -- they replace. Jaguar has no program or instructions to fix the ABS pump == on the rare occasion some part is fixed/rebuilt -- they send them out. They gave you the cost of the pump and the couple of hours to install.

I occasionally get the ABS failure -- I ignore it ... I rarely get it again on startup. When it becomes a real problem -- I will have the dealer scan it so I know exactly what is up.

Personally -- with what they most likely paid for the car ... I think you could have pushed them a bit to fix the car. Even if it cost you a bit more ... plus would have insisted on a new battery.

The trunk wires are a common failure -- and can be intermittent. Fine one day .. not the next. The radio code points to a dead battery or disconnected battery -- not unusual.

Many dealers are setup where sales/parts/service all act independently. The sales guys want to make all the money on used vehicles -- and get the service department to fix a car on the cheap. The service department does not want to "sell" the sales department a services at a discount. And parts wants full wholesale.

The smaller dealer -- that I like the best ......does not work this way.

Example: A few years back I bought a new Nissan truck for the office. I always included an extra key into the purchase price for office vehicles. That way I know I have a key in my desk for the vehicles. The salesman was newish and I guess had no idea what a key cost -- over $300 .. retail. He had figured in $35.00 -- I did not know this. The parts department would not "sell" the sales department a key at the wholesale price .. still $125.00. I'm trying to pick-up the truck and these guys are blaming me ...