HI all, my 99 xjr has the above warning lights on,it started as an intermitant fault but is now on 24/7, had it diagnosed, showing the abs module and a rear abs sensor at fault,refitted a secondhand module,(apparently working) but all lights r still on. would a faulty a abs sensor cause all these warning lights to show! much help needed !!!

 

This may be way off, but you might want to make a quick check for low voltage conditions (short, relay, alternator). These warnings come on during low voltage.

Start car, disconnect ground from battery. Using a multimeter, read voltage from positive on battery to ground cable. If everything is good, it should read 13 to 15 volts.

If it stalls when you remove the cable, it may be the alternator.

Or it could be the ABS module. . .

 

You might want to get the sensors read on a OBDII scanner--free @ Autozone or Advance Auto Parts. They can also reset the codes for you.

People on this forum are much more helpful when provided with the fault codes.

This problem could be many, many things. The ABS Sensors are very easy to diagnose from reading the ohms on the plug on the ABS box. It also tells you if a sensor wire's bad--a common problem. Many ABS Sensors are just dirty, and can be washed with dishwashing liquid--a 10 minute job total.

 

went out in her last night, after about an hour all the warning lights went out!!! wiggled all the sensor cables,and tapped the replacement abs module, and all still good. took her out this morning and still no warning lights . ive ordered a replacement R/R ABS sensor, as this showed up as being faulty on the diagnostic test,so i will fit this tommorrow and hopefully problem solved.....thanx for your comments ...will repost in a few days to update

 

As I have experienced this just recently these three lights illuminate upon low voltage when the battery gets below 12v. I topped of the battery with fluids and had it charged with no problem since then will all lights off now. Maybe something you want to look into as well.

 

In regards to my earlier directions. . .

Even though the JTIS recommends the method of removing the ground cable from the battery for test (when engine is started cold and under no load), it's been recommended repeatedly in this forum NOT to remove the cable.

I just wanted to give you that warning before you follow my directions.

 

Still havent fitted r/r abs sensor, but no problems today talking to a mechanic today,and he suggested it takes a while for the car to recognize, the replacement abs module! hope he is right !!!

 

A safe alternative is as follows:


-- measure voltage drop between each battery post and its mating cable terminal. this tells you if the connection is good

-- measure DC voltage between positive and negative terminals while the car is running. a reading between 13 and 15 volts is satisfactory

-- measure AC voltage between positive and negative terminals while the car is running. a reading of any significance is a sign of a failed rectifier bridge in the alternator

-- measure DC voltage between positive and negative terminals after stopping the engine, the reading should be just below what it was while running. this is float voltage

-- measure DC voltage between positive and negative terminals after the engine has been stopped for 30 minutes, it should be about 12.5 volts after the float voltage has discharged. turn on headlights for 5 minutes and try again if the float voltage is still present.

-- measure DC voltage between positive and negative terminals after the engine has been stopped overnight, it should still be about 12.5 volts

If the last tests fail, trickle charge the battery for 24 hours at a low rate of 2-6 amps and try again after performing a parasitic current draw measurement. The current draw measurement can also be performed as one of the last steps before leaving it overnight. It is also possible to disconnect the ground cable overnight to isolate the battery from the effects of parasitic current draw.

 

Where is the abs module?

 

I had a similar problem, considering my options I was told that swapping modules required having the new unit programmed to the vehicle (else the onboard system would not recognize it). These units are know for faulty solder joints at the power input weld among a few other PC board faults. There's an outfit in Tennessee that will analyze and repair as well as check for all known faults. Available on E-bay 50-60 bucks and usual turnaround is out and back to them in 7 days or less. It's the original unit so it doesn't require reprogramming making the job a DIY. I used them and it cleared up all my issues. I'd check the wheel sensor circuits before pulling the module. Check the electrical schematic for pin numbers and you can check each circuit from the connector at the module. I found a friend while I was searching (Jag Tech) his diagnosis - if wheel sensor circuits are good (should have 1000-1200 ohms) and you are getting constant ABS/TRAC unavailable warning AS WELL AS ABS warning light = Faulty Module

 

Well it looks like I've been bitten by this little bug - no P fault codes (at least on my el cheapo OBDII scanner), ABS light on, amber CEL on, and alternating messages of "traction control fail" and "stability control fail". Sounds like an ABS module, right?

All ABS fuses were good, so I did a quick check just then of the wheel sensors at the module plug (based on this document referred to in another thread: http://jagrepair.com/images/AutoRepa...heet%20XK8.pdf), and all four wheel sensors returned dead-on 1.1k ohms.

I'll look to get a proper scan done this weekend, but what are people's thoughts? Is it definitely going to be the module? All the posts I have seen tend to indicate that it is the soldering of the joints that route to the small plug that are the problem, not the large plug. Is this the experience of everyone here that has attempted this?

In this post (https://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/x...failure-61545/) Sabrina did an in-situ repair. Anyone else had any luck with this?

Thanks for your help!

Dave

 

I think it would be safer to remove the module and use some fresh solder on the pins, first scraping off the insulation.

 

Some time back there was a well-pictured tutorial on locating, removing, and repairing the module that sets off the "stability control fail" light. I'd like to find it or have someone post it up since my last drive out resulted in this warning light about halfway through my otherwise pleasant drive. I love the car, but am getting tired of all the electrical idiocy that never seems to leave Jaguar...no matter what decade.

 

Go to jagrepair.com and you will find all you need, either in the XK8 or XJ8 sections.