Hi All,

I have a 200 XJ8 with 64K miles. Engine started making a knocking sound--- Thought it may have been broken tensioners & possibly out of time from a skipped timing chain…. I replaced tensioners & set timing, I buttoned it back up, but –No luck!, the Knock is still there L I suspect a connecting rod but really just a guess at this point---what do you think?

You can listen to the engine noise here: http://api.viglink.com/api/click?format=go&drKey=268&loc=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.jag uarforums.com%2Fforum%2Fxj-x308-xj8-xjr-27%2F2000-xj8-knocking-increases-load-78431%2F&v=1&libid=1346381503307&out=http%3A%2F%2F www.youtube.com%2Fwatch%3Fv%3DwwaK3PqdpCE&ref=http %3A%2F%2Fwww.jaguarforums.com%2Fforum%2Fxj-x308-xj8-xjr-27%2F2000-xj8-knocking-increases-load-78431%2Fpage2%2F&title=2000%20XJ8%20knocking-increases%20with%20load%20-%20Jaguar%20Forums%20-%20Jaguar%20Enthusiasts%20Forum&txt=VIDEO0051%20-%20YouTube&jsonp=vglnk_jsonp_13463815287571

So I am (very reluctantly) making my peace with the fact that a new engine is probably in my future…. That said… I have a couple of Questions for the forum:

1 Is there any way to determine (with a high % of certainty) just how bad the damage is & w/o spending a ton of $$$ for a mechanic to tell me “yup, it’s ₤µ©ⱩƏɖ” ?

2. If it turns out to be a connecting rod (or worse) what are my options?
Rebuild?
Replace?

3. Is there any advantage to keeping (& fixing) “MY” current Engine as opposed to getting something used/rebuilt?

I have read a number of posts that have addressed XJ8 engine removal and it honestly doesn’t sound like too bad of a job (knocking on wood!!)--- Has anyone done it? Want to share your experience?

Has anyone repaired a connecting rod on one of these?

I’m anxious to hear everyone’s thoughts on all of this.

Thanks to All in advance!

 

I've rebuilt a few of these, they're designed to be removed and replaced without fuss.

The issue is why it's spun a bearing - a bit of tensioner could have blocked and starved an oil gallery leading to the bearing. With that in mind a full teardown is the safe route to a rebuild.

The big thing is crank damage - if it's scored it'll need work that could cost more than a reasonable replacement, so you can see the issue here.

Maybe better off looking for a replacement 'short motor' and use all ancillaries including the cylinder heads. Or a full unit to drop in, depending on what's available and cost.

An engine swap is easier, splitting the engine is a potential expensive journey.

 

Thanks Sean, I think I'm up for the removal & reinsall... as for the tear-down...really depends on cost & availability of a used/rebuilt.

I thought I read that an engine swap for 2000 XJ8 was 13 hours; what was your experience?
Thanks again.

 

13 hours? I'm new to Jaguar, but I have r&r'd quite a few engines as a non-professional shade-tree mechanic. My experience usually goes like this: 1st weekend to remove the engine and tear it down (that goes rather quickly), 2nd weekend to clean up the mess in the garage (the engine is still at the machine shop), 3rd weekend to detail the engine bay while its out (the engine is still at the machine shop), 4th weekend to fix a toilet (engine is back but flushing is more important), 5th weekend to reassemble the engine, 6th weekend to break some brittle plastic part while reinstalling the engine, 7th weekend to install said replacement plastic part plus other family commitments, 8th weekend to finally button it up and drive the car. Total you should plan on at least two months, more if you have several children, needy spouse, an old house or a big yard.

 

ROFL- yes, that scenario sounds familiar... Don't forget the dear wife asking every few hours- aren't you done with this yet?

It took me an afternoon to remove the engine and trans (may as well and tackle the A-drum while you are at it) and a full Saturday from 9am until about 8pm. I did have some help for about two hours and my son (sort of) pitched in here and there. It wouldn't start, so it continued until the next day when I spent about 4 hours troubleshooting. It is running like a champ now and my daughter is VERY happy.

Give yourself two weekends to be safe (maybe start the first Friday to allow for time) and that way you can chip away at other stuff (cleaning swapping peripherals etc..) It is pretty easy (especially if you unplug the main connector and take it out whole- I opted to remove alot of stuff that wasn't necessary)

You have to remove it at a pretty sharp angle in order to clear everything and make sure to have a floor jack under the trans so you can manipulate it while pulling and replacing- you will see what I mean when you are there.

Also, get a fuel line quick release tool at your local parts store (I fashioned one out of metal, only to see that O'rielly auto parts had them on a hook for a couple bucks..) I did have a "stuck" Transmission mount that I had to use heat to remove- hair dryer. If you follow the removal procedure to a "t" it is very easy. I labeled everything I could with masking tape/sharpie and numbers based on what step I removed the part- I even took out the transmission to engine bolts and labeled the bags so they would go in the same holes- (1:00, 1:30, 2:00 etc.) Do yourself a favor and remove the CPS completely before starting- I almost forgot that part and nearly snapped the connector wires.

Lots of help here, so ask away if you get stuck.

D

 

Pdupler--- I like your timeline!--Think I'll probably have to factor in a few more weeks/months if I plan to play any golf, drink any beer or hang out w/the guys. Plus I need to rearrange the garage to "optimize my work space" before I even get into this Odyssey

DSnyder--great tips on the fuleline & CPS... I see a lot of baggies, sharpies & labels in my future.
Thanks guys.

 

With that type of knock, I go for the R&R,, (Remove and Replace)

Two days with a helper, no interruptions, nothing goes wrong, no stuck/stripped bolts and not cleaning the engine bay, thats if you get a full replacement drop in.

OR

Two weekends with a little help, some interruptions, nothing MAJOR goes wrong, one stripped bolt, and cleaning the engine bay with a full replacement drop in

OR

If you particular about what you do, WHENEVER you satisfied with the work you doing/done and ready to drop the engine in.

I have replaced a engine with all the above scenerios.

Just depends on how fast you want/need it back on the road.

 

Hi All,

I am working on sourcing an engine and I am thinking about trying to buy a slavage vehicle (w/ rear or side damage) from auction and just doing am "engine swap"


My 2000 XJ8 has the 4.0 engine and I'm just wondering if anyone knows if other Jaguar model(s) years will fit my vehicle... for example I am seeing the 4.0L in some of the auction vehicle descriptions, but I'm uncertain what the differences are between the 4.0 & 4.0L. Any help, thoughts or advice would be most appreciated.

Thanks!

 

4.0 and 4.0L same same L= Liter (or Litre)

There were two versions-

AJ26- 1998 and some early 1999
AJ27- later 1999 until 2003

You *can* make the AJ26 work in a AJ27 car and vice-versa, it just takes a little money and time, but the later engines did not have Nikasil liners, which can be problematic.

 

Hi Guys,

I am getting conflicting info on what years are "swapable" with my XJ8
Vin SAJDA14CXYLF19628

I would like to swap out for an engine out of a 2003 with low miles...BUT...The Used engine shops are telling me NO-GO! They are saying I need a 1999, 2000 or a 2001 ONLY.
I would much rather have the newer (2002 or 2003) engine but I do not want a bunch of headaches getting it to work with my 2000.

Can you shed some light on this for me?

What are the differences between a 2002/3 and the 2000 engine?
Will it “drop right in”

Any/All help is most appreciated!

TIA

 

Don't listen to them, 'we' on this here forum know more. Take pictures of the engine bay of your car on post here. I'll confirm what will fit. You're right about getting an 03' with low miles, if it can be found buy it and it should drop right in...

 

Hi All Thanks for helping me through this... Don't know how much they will help, but here are the pictures that you requested.










Thoughts?

 

x

 

That is definitely an AJ27 unit, this means any later 02/03 4.0 unit will go straight in, XJ8, XK8. No issues.

 

Any AJ27 engine is an easy fit in your car, and these 4.0 ones where build until mid 2002 or so (which would be called a 2003 model in the US). Then the production started for the 4.2 engines for the x350, so maybe there is some confusion? Anyway, best to always ask what the specific reason is why one says something that is easier to clear up afterwards.

 

There's a point, you can even put a 4.2 unit in without much difficulty...for ease of the job the specific unit in 4.2 would be XK8 2004 on.
Avos' point is valid, the engine suppliers are hung up on the x350 unit, but this isn't a problem, you can make these fit too.

 

Great stuff Guys!

I will start the search for a 2003--

Thanks!!!!!

 

Hi Guys,

I think I may have found my donor- here's a link to the salvage auction that it came form

oops--wrong link---here's the correct one:
http://webcache.googleusercontent.co...&ct=clnk&gl=us

Any thoughts? ...

 

hello sorry I know this is an old post but just recently joint forum and also have a xj8 with the same sound. I have been trying to find rebuild kits but coming up short. also being told that I have to use a engine from a 98 with matching vin code I have a 98 xj8 vp engine vin con is a 2 anyone know the differences in the engines and the years? why cant I use a 2000 4.0 or a 4.2 and if I can what mods with have to be done?

 

Hi and welcome- Start a new thread and we will reply with specifics to your exact situation.
You may have broken tensioners or something else besides a bad connecting rod. If you need to replace the whole motor the years of 1998 through mid-1999 will be a direct fit. After that there were changes to the oil sump, heads and flex plate which you can switch over with some effort, although the savings over a used motor may be negligible. Wish you were closer, I have a good used 98 motor for $800.