Airbag light diagnosis help please
#21
ross1:
I don't know. The seatbelt light (along with chime) and I believe airbag light go out simultaneously after about 5 seconds of the car running. The chime stops the moment my seatbelt is fastened, and NOTHING - neither chime nor light - comes on again once unbuckled. I have guessed that to be normal behavior up until this point, but it does beg the question:
Would somebody with a working SRS system please confirm whether the seatbelt light stays out if the seatbelt is unplugged during operation?
There has simply GOT to be a common explanation for this.
Scott
I don't know. The seatbelt light (along with chime) and I believe airbag light go out simultaneously after about 5 seconds of the car running. The chime stops the moment my seatbelt is fastened, and NOTHING - neither chime nor light - comes on again once unbuckled. I have guessed that to be normal behavior up until this point, but it does beg the question:
Would somebody with a working SRS system please confirm whether the seatbelt light stays out if the seatbelt is unplugged during operation?
There has simply GOT to be a common explanation for this.
Scott
#22
ross1:
I don't know. The seatbelt light (along with chime) and I believe airbag light go out simultaneously after about 5 seconds of the car running. The chime stops the moment my seatbelt is fastened, and NOTHING - neither chime nor light - comes on again once unbuckled. I have guessed that to be normal behavior up until this point, but it does beg the question:
Would somebody with a working SRS system please confirm whether the seatbelt light stays out if the seatbelt is unplugged during operation?
There has simply GOT to be a common explanation for this.
Scott
I don't know. The seatbelt light (along with chime) and I believe airbag light go out simultaneously after about 5 seconds of the car running. The chime stops the moment my seatbelt is fastened, and NOTHING - neither chime nor light - comes on again once unbuckled. I have guessed that to be normal behavior up until this point, but it does beg the question:
Would somebody with a working SRS system please confirm whether the seatbelt light stays out if the seatbelt is unplugged during operation?
There has simply GOT to be a common explanation for this.
Scott
I am not sure of what is correct operation now except i know belt light is off after the self test and airbag is on after self test. No chime, except for key in for open chime so I know that the chime works.
#23
dsetter:
Reviewing your posts, I have a couple of questions.
1. Does the airbag light (along with seatbelt light + chime) go out after 5 second selftest only to come on again soon thereafter OR does your airbag light not go out at all?
2. Have you had Jaguar (or an indy tech with the correct code reader) check to see if there are any stored codes?
I'll have to test to see whether the car is moving has any effect on the seatbelt light if unbuckled…
Scott
Reviewing your posts, I have a couple of questions.
1. Does the airbag light (along with seatbelt light + chime) go out after 5 second selftest only to come on again soon thereafter OR does your airbag light not go out at all?
2. Have you had Jaguar (or an indy tech with the correct code reader) check to see if there are any stored codes?
I'll have to test to see whether the car is moving has any effect on the seatbelt light if unbuckled…
Scott
#24
My airbag light is out. I checked the belt switch, it is good. I get the belt light and chime during test, but after that I can unbuckle and no warning. I think the previous owner turned the warning off, but I don't know how to turn it back on. No broken or jumpered wires under the seat. I know this isn't any help for Ross1, but he isn't the only one seeing this. Wish I had the solution
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MidwestJag (07-18-2014)
#25
dsetter:
Reviewing your posts, I have a couple of questions.
1. Does the airbag light (along with seatbelt light + chime) go out after 5 second selftest only to come on again soon thereafter OR does your airbag light not go out at all?
2. Have you had Jaguar (or an indy tech with the correct code reader) check to see if there are any stored codes?
I'll have to test to see whether the car is moving has any effect on the seatbelt light if unbuckled…
Scott
Reviewing your posts, I have a couple of questions.
1. Does the airbag light (along with seatbelt light + chime) go out after 5 second selftest only to come on again soon thereafter OR does your airbag light not go out at all?
2. Have you had Jaguar (or an indy tech with the correct code reader) check to see if there are any stored codes?
I'll have to test to see whether the car is moving has any effect on the seatbelt light if unbuckled…
Scott
1. The site bag light comes on at power on, then goes out after 5s with all others. Then comes on again, solid. There is no flashing.
2. I have not yet had a tech read the codes. Would prefer to pay to have my own capability if i knew what reader i should plan for. I know i need body codes, not engine.
#26
dsetter:
Reviewing your posts, I have a couple of questions.
1. Does the airbag light (along with seatbelt light + chime) go out after 5 second selftest only to come on again soon thereafter OR does your airbag light not go out at all?
2. Have you had Jaguar (or an indy tech with the correct code reader) check to see if there are any stored codes?
I'll have to test to see whether the car is moving has any effect on the seatbelt light if unbuckled…
Scott
Reviewing your posts, I have a couple of questions.
1. Does the airbag light (along with seatbelt light + chime) go out after 5 second selftest only to come on again soon thereafter OR does your airbag light not go out at all?
2. Have you had Jaguar (or an indy tech with the correct code reader) check to see if there are any stored codes?
I'll have to test to see whether the car is moving has any effect on the seatbelt light if unbuckled…
Scott
1. The air bag light comes on at power on, then goes out after 5s with all others. Then comes on again, solid. There is no flashing.
2. I have not yet had a tech read the codes. Would prefer to pay to have my own capability if i knew what reader i should plan for. I know i need body codes, not engine.
Last edited by dsetter; 07-19-2014 at 11:16 AM.
#27
addI have the Auto Enginuity obd II reader with the jag enhancement. I never had a solid "on" airbag and no codes show without the light on. My airbag light was always intermittent. After adjusting the under seat wiring, it has been off and stayed off.
I don't get a seat belt code because that light NEVER comes on after the initial 5 sec test. A reader is only good for a current fault on the SRS.
A solid on airbag light should be visible to the obd 2 reader. If it only happens when hot try freeze spray on the connections.
Max Professional Freeze Spray 10 oz
https://www.autoenginuity.com/produc...guar-ei11.html
I don't get a seat belt code because that light NEVER comes on after the initial 5 sec test. A reader is only good for a current fault on the SRS.
A solid on airbag light should be visible to the obd 2 reader. If it only happens when hot try freeze spray on the connections.
Max Professional Freeze Spray 10 oz
https://www.autoenginuity.com/produc...guar-ei11.html
Last edited by Lear45; 07-19-2014 at 08:27 AM. Reason: added link
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MidwestJag (07-19-2014)
#28
Man, we have such similar sets of circumstances…
dsetter - please confirm that you have NOT already swapped out the clock spring, and, if so, with a new or used unit.
I did have my codes read at Jaguar - there were none precisely because of what Lear45 said in the previous post - and the technician apparently familiar with the older cars pointed right to the clock spring. As I said before, I replaced it with a used until (mostly to save hundreds…) and it changed nothing. Because there are no saved codes to be read, I'm just taking stabs in the dark and trying to find similarities between what you guys have experienced as well. I've got vacation time in early August during which I plan to pull the driver's seat and replace the seat belt, and possibly a brand new clock spring. We'll see!
Scott
dsetter - please confirm that you have NOT already swapped out the clock spring, and, if so, with a new or used unit.
I did have my codes read at Jaguar - there were none precisely because of what Lear45 said in the previous post - and the technician apparently familiar with the older cars pointed right to the clock spring. As I said before, I replaced it with a used until (mostly to save hundreds…) and it changed nothing. Because there are no saved codes to be read, I'm just taking stabs in the dark and trying to find similarities between what you guys have experienced as well. I've got vacation time in early August during which I plan to pull the driver's seat and replace the seat belt, and possibly a brand new clock spring. We'll see!
Scott
#29
Man, we have such similar sets of circumstances…
dsetter - please confirm that you have NOT already swapped out the clock spring, and, if so, with a new or used unit.
I did have my codes read at Jaguar - there were none precisely because of what Lear45 said in the previous post - and the technician apparently familiar with the older cars pointed right to the clock spring. As I said before, I replaced it with a used until (mostly to save hundreds…) and it changed nothing. Because there are no saved codes to be read, I'm just taking stabs in the dark and trying to find similarities between what you guys have experienced as well. I've got vacation time in early August during which I plan to pull the driver's seat and replace the seat belt, and possibly a brand new clock spring. We'll see!
Scott
dsetter - please confirm that you have NOT already swapped out the clock spring, and, if so, with a new or used unit.
I did have my codes read at Jaguar - there were none precisely because of what Lear45 said in the previous post - and the technician apparently familiar with the older cars pointed right to the clock spring. As I said before, I replaced it with a used until (mostly to save hundreds…) and it changed nothing. Because there are no saved codes to be read, I'm just taking stabs in the dark and trying to find similarities between what you guys have experienced as well. I've got vacation time in early August during which I plan to pull the driver's seat and replace the seat belt, and possibly a brand new clock spring. We'll see!
Scott
I HAVE replaced the clock spring with a new unit, off eBay. Was $60 or so. Still was in sealed bag and had a tab to remove at the time of fitment. Currently all radio and cruise controls work consistently.
#30
Man, we have such similar sets of circumstances…
dsetter - please confirm that you have NOT already swapped out the clock spring, and, if so, with a new or used unit.
I did have my codes read at Jaguar - there were none precisely because of what Lear45 said in the previous post - and the technician apparently familiar with the older cars pointed right to the clock spring. As I said before, I replaced it with a used until (mostly to save hundreds…) and it changed nothing. Because there are no saved codes to be read, I'm just taking stabs in the dark and trying to find similarities between what you guys have experienced as well. I've got vacation time in early August during which I plan to pull the driver's seat and replace the seat belt, and possibly a brand new clock spring. We'll see!
Scott
dsetter - please confirm that you have NOT already swapped out the clock spring, and, if so, with a new or used unit.
I did have my codes read at Jaguar - there were none precisely because of what Lear45 said in the previous post - and the technician apparently familiar with the older cars pointed right to the clock spring. As I said before, I replaced it with a used until (mostly to save hundreds…) and it changed nothing. Because there are no saved codes to be read, I'm just taking stabs in the dark and trying to find similarities between what you guys have experienced as well. I've got vacation time in early August during which I plan to pull the driver's seat and replace the seat belt, and possibly a brand new clock spring. We'll see!
Scott
#31
Gotcha! Ya little *******!
Since I have no ability to retrieve airbag codes and most problems seem to emanate from the seat wiring I decided to grow a set and check resistance of the driver's seat airbag as the wiring had all checked good no matter the manipulations I gave it.
Before checking resistance I substituted a four ohm resistor for the airbag load at the seat bottom connector. BINGO! With the SRS seeing a four ohm load the light remains off.
Once again examining the wiring I found NO evidence of damage or even excessive flexing.
What I did note prior to testing the airbag (2.5 ohms)is the shorting bridge* in the seat harness side of the yellow connector. I suspected this bridge wasn't being displaced properly by the other side of the connector so removed it(it snaps in/out)and the light is out, off, extinguished.
I was further rewarded with $.90 in loose change under the seat.
Chalk one up for Primitive Pete.
Arrghhh! Light came back, the connector is still the issue though. I've pulled the halves tightly together with a zip tie, so far so good.
* there I understand to prevent accidental deployment in the event of a static discharge or a misplaced probe.
Since I have no ability to retrieve airbag codes and most problems seem to emanate from the seat wiring I decided to grow a set and check resistance of the driver's seat airbag as the wiring had all checked good no matter the manipulations I gave it.
Before checking resistance I substituted a four ohm resistor for the airbag load at the seat bottom connector. BINGO! With the SRS seeing a four ohm load the light remains off.
Once again examining the wiring I found NO evidence of damage or even excessive flexing.
What I did note prior to testing the airbag (2.5 ohms)is the shorting bridge* in the seat harness side of the yellow connector. I suspected this bridge wasn't being displaced properly by the other side of the connector so removed it(it snaps in/out)and the light is out, off, extinguished.
I was further rewarded with $.90 in loose change under the seat.
Chalk one up for Primitive Pete.
Arrghhh! Light came back, the connector is still the issue though. I've pulled the halves tightly together with a zip tie, so far so good.
* there I understand to prevent accidental deployment in the event of a static discharge or a misplaced probe.
Last edited by ross1; 07-21-2014 at 01:15 PM.
The following users liked this post:
MidwestJag (07-21-2014)
#32
ross1:
I know we all will be very curious to see whether this fix keeps the light off for good. Seriously, if that's the case, I'm nominating you for sainthood! (I understand, however, it takes a few years to finalize all the paperwork…)
I'm guessing that you were able to access that harness without removing the seat?
Scott
I know we all will be very curious to see whether this fix keeps the light off for good. Seriously, if that's the case, I'm nominating you for sainthood! (I understand, however, it takes a few years to finalize all the paperwork…)
I'm guessing that you were able to access that harness without removing the seat?
Scott
#33
ross1:
I know we all will be very curious to see whether this fix keeps the light off for good. Seriously, if that's the case, I'm nominating you for sainthood! (I understand, however, it takes a few years to finalize all the paperwork…)
I'm guessing that you were able to access that harness without removing the seat?
Scott
I know we all will be very curious to see whether this fix keeps the light off for good. Seriously, if that's the case, I'm nominating you for sainthood! (I understand, however, it takes a few years to finalize all the paperwork…)
I'm guessing that you were able to access that harness without removing the seat?
Scott
Scott,
The connector can be reached without removing the seat but it is MUCH easier if you unbolt the seat and turn it on it's back. It's a five minute job.
I'm confident connections at this connector are the issue. Blaming the shorting bridge is probably incorrect as the light came back again and there is no short so an open circuit is indicated.
With the resistor substituted the light will remain off and the airbag checks good from it's connector. The connector feels sloppy so I've tweaked the pins some in hopes of providing better contact. The computer is looking for very low impedance* so it doesn't take much in the way of a poor connection to alter what it sees.
* I don't know the criteria for a fault to be indicated but the airbag tests at 2.5 ohms and a 4 ohm load "works". I've not investigated if a dead short would be recognized as a fault.
#34
Ross,
As you are talking about the connector under the seat then I assume it is the side airbag you are having trouble with.
A couple points to note,
The shorting bridge in the connector is there to sense an open circuit ie, unplugged, in that you are correct.
What you may not be aware of, there is another connector at the charge for the airbag under the upper seat cover. Ask anyone with 2-2 flash code.
This connector is very susceptible to heat as the pins are free to move slightly within the plug and as it gets hotter the connection is broken and hence airbag fault light.
If what you are doing now does not solve the problem then that is your next port of call.
Hope this helps you out,
As you are talking about the connector under the seat then I assume it is the side airbag you are having trouble with.
A couple points to note,
The shorting bridge in the connector is there to sense an open circuit ie, unplugged, in that you are correct.
What you may not be aware of, there is another connector at the charge for the airbag under the upper seat cover. Ask anyone with 2-2 flash code.
This connector is very susceptible to heat as the pins are free to move slightly within the plug and as it gets hotter the connection is broken and hence airbag fault light.
If what you are doing now does not solve the problem then that is your next port of call.
Hope this helps you out,
The following users liked this post:
ross1 (07-22-2014)
#35
Ross,
As you are talking about the connector under the seat then I assume it is the side airbag you are having trouble with.
A couple points to note,
The shorting bridge in the connector is there to sense an open circuit ie, unplugged, in that you are correct.
What you may not be aware of, there is another connector at the charge for the airbag under the upper seat cover. Ask anyone with 2-2 flash code.
This connector is very susceptible to heat as the pins are free to move slightly within the plug and as it gets hotter the connection is broken and hence airbag fault light.
If what you are doing now does not solve the problem then that is your next port of call.
Hope this helps you out,
As you are talking about the connector under the seat then I assume it is the side airbag you are having trouble with.
A couple points to note,
The shorting bridge in the connector is there to sense an open circuit ie, unplugged, in that you are correct.
What you may not be aware of, there is another connector at the charge for the airbag under the upper seat cover. Ask anyone with 2-2 flash code.
This connector is very susceptible to heat as the pins are free to move slightly within the plug and as it gets hotter the connection is broken and hence airbag fault light.
If what you are doing now does not solve the problem then that is your next port of call.
Hope this helps you out,
Thanks Jim,
I've had the seat apart and thought I examined it pretty thoroughly. The connector you mention doesn't ring a bell so I would have not looked for it without your prompt.
I am confident all is well now(famous last words and all) but if this issue rears it's ugly head once more I know where to look now.
You guys are great here.
#36
#37
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Lear45 (07-23-2014)
#38
Gotcha! Ya little *******!
Since I have no ability to retrieve airbag codes and most problems seem to emanate from the seat wiring I decided to grow a set and check resistance of the driver's seat airbag as the wiring had all checked good no matter the manipulations I gave it.
Before checking resistance I substituted a four ohm resistor for the airbag load at the seat bottom connector. BINGO! With the SRS seeing a four ohm load the light remains off.
Once again examining the wiring I found NO evidence of damage or even excessive flexing.
What I did note prior to testing the airbag (2.5 ohms)is the shorting bridge* in the seat harness side of the yellow connector. I suspected this bridge wasn't being displaced properly by the other side of the connector so removed it(it snaps in/out)and the light is out, off, extinguished.
I was further rewarded with $.90 in loose change under the seat.
Chalk one up for Primitive Pete.
Arrghhh! Light came back, the connector is still the issue though. I've pulled the halves tightly together with a zip tie, so far so good.
* there I understand to prevent accidental deployment in the event of a static discharge or a misplaced probe.
Since I have no ability to retrieve airbag codes and most problems seem to emanate from the seat wiring I decided to grow a set and check resistance of the driver's seat airbag as the wiring had all checked good no matter the manipulations I gave it.
Before checking resistance I substituted a four ohm resistor for the airbag load at the seat bottom connector. BINGO! With the SRS seeing a four ohm load the light remains off.
Once again examining the wiring I found NO evidence of damage or even excessive flexing.
What I did note prior to testing the airbag (2.5 ohms)is the shorting bridge* in the seat harness side of the yellow connector. I suspected this bridge wasn't being displaced properly by the other side of the connector so removed it(it snaps in/out)and the light is out, off, extinguished.
I was further rewarded with $.90 in loose change under the seat.
Chalk one up for Primitive Pete.
Arrghhh! Light came back, the connector is still the issue though. I've pulled the halves tightly together with a zip tie, so far so good.
* there I understand to prevent accidental deployment in the event of a static discharge or a misplaced probe.
I was prepared to pull the seat apart but do not think that is now necessary.
I also confirmed the correct behavior of the seat belt. It only comes on for 6s withe the key in and unbuckled. While chiming, if buckled, it would stop.
I think it is fixed...
The following 2 users liked this post by dsetter:
Lear45 (07-27-2014),
MidwestJag (07-27-2014)
#39
FYI, my airbag light is out and has been out for several months. (I did briefly get a light after fixing the up/down power seat, I didn't have a connector seated correctly. It was a quick fix). That one was my fault, not one I could blame on the car. I only get the
seat belt warning on start up. I can unbuckle it and get no warning. If that is correct, then my car is ok.
seat belt warning on start up. I can unbuckle it and get no warning. If that is correct, then my car is ok.
#40
Ross, thanks for your tips and renewed motivation. I again pulled the seat and found that the seat airbag plug was not really properly engaged. There is a part in it, unlike other plugs that works with the shorting strap inside. Seems that a part on mine was was preventing a full engagement and lock. There is a red indicator plastic piece to show full engagement. I measured the airbag resistance, with the sorting bar pushed away from the pins as 2.7 ohms but when it appeared pluged in, it was still a short, zero ohms. After pushing the red safety bar on the seat plug in and then plugging together again, the engagement was much better and connected, I could then measure 2.7 ohms, AND the self test passes and the light stays out. Unplugging it would turn the SRS light bazck on. With it connected, no amount of movement of the wires made it come on.
I was prepared to pull the seat apart but do not think that is now necessary.
I also confirmed the correct behavior of the seat belt. It only comes on for 6s withe the key in and unbuckled. While chiming, if buckled, it would stop.
I think it is fixed...
I was prepared to pull the seat apart but do not think that is now necessary.
I also confirmed the correct behavior of the seat belt. It only comes on for 6s withe the key in and unbuckled. While chiming, if buckled, it would stop.
I think it is fixed...
I pulled the seat out and substituted a 2.7 ohm resistor in place of the seat. No amount of wire movement would cause it to light so I thought the problem was in the seat.
I pulled the back off the seat after tracing the air bag wiring and found that moving the connector on the seat airbag caused the resistance to vary from 2.2 to 3+ ohm. I pulled the airbag out, only 2 10mm nuts and checked the connector and wiring. It is in the shoulder bolster. After replacement, I got a steady 2.2 ohms.
Till now, I did not know there was an air bag in the seat.
I am in test mode again but will not reward myself with a beer unless it is still off next weekend.