I've got a non CATS 01 XJR. Got new tires 6 months ago and got a lifetime alignment package, steered straight. Changed the worn out sway bar links, aligned ran straight. Changed the front shocks, bushing mounting plate and shock bellows, my shock bushings had melted creating clunk going over RR tracks, had it aligned and pulls to the right. Had it realigned and it got worse. They're saying the rear is way out of alignment, still pulls right pretty bad. I haven't hit anything! Any ideas

 

It's possible the guys doing the alignment don't know how to align a jag. Is this at a firestone or something?

 

Yes, unfortunately, Tires Plus... The original store I brought it to seemed to get it right, had to take it to another store with the "Best" latest/greatest alignment machine because the other stores was broken. That's when the problem arose. Anybody know about the rear alignment and shims? Thanks

 

Although the manual "requires" preloading the car before setting the alignment, there is not one thing in the world special about testing an X-308 alignment different from any other independent suspension vehicle. Moving the rear takes shims for the camber, but the toe- in, which is normally what mucks up the tracking, is set by eccentric bolts. Unless something is bent and they run out of adjustment, it is about as easy as can be.

I have had excellent results at normal tire shops, but I always require the print-out and I ask about the training for the guy running the machine, and I come back if the "regular guy" is off that day. Warn them that you will want them to explain every line on the printout and that you expect all to be "in the green" not the yellow!

By the way, that special "preloading" simply means that the alignment is set spot on for the case of whatever load is on the car for the alignment. If you normally drive with 4 people in the car, preloading the suspension with the weight of 4 people makes sense. If you normally drive with just the driver, then only the load for the drive is needed.

BTW, if you got a "lifetime alignment package" then if they are saying the rear is out of alignment, kindly suggest they put it back into alignment.

No magic, just geometry! Well there is SOME magic in geometry!

 

On the rear, toe-in is adjusted by the cam bolts, camber is adjusted by shims at the halfshaft/differential interface. Camber seldom needs adjustment. Caster is not adjustable.

 

Hello Barry,
Before you go running around in endless circles tearing your hair out, here is a few basic specs for this model that any compitant modern alignment shop can figure out.

Firstly the track rods (steering arms) at the front need to be set at equal lengths.
Most modern computerised alignment machines will automatically compensate
for load variations.
It's not usual these days to have to 'load down' the suspension.
The steering wheel is clamped to the central position and if it is off centre, it will need to be centralised.
If your wheel has never been off for any reason and the front end has not had damage it should be OK.

Front wheel alignment must always be performed at the same time as the rear
and this is easily done on a 4 wheel computerised setup.
Front alignment specs:
CASTOR (which normally doesn't have to be altered) is Min +4deg. to +8deg. left and right.
CAMBER Left. -0.53 deg. to +0.47 deg.
Right. -1.03 deg. to -0.03 deg.
TOE IN Left and right total toe +0.08 deg. to +0.42 deg.

REA WHEEL ALIGNMENT:
CAMBER Left -1.20 deg. to -0.10 deg.
Right -1.20 deg. to -0.10 deg. both adjustable by shims but if this has never been disturbed, it should be within specs.
TOE Left +0.08 deg. to +0.25 deg.

All these figures are for a vehicle set at 'Showroom' height which is
normally all fluids full with half a tank of fuel.

As Ross has pointed out the Camber both front and rear are adjusted by
eccentric headed bolts which have graduations which correspond to marks on the control arms.
In the case of the front, it's the inner bolt front on the lower control arm.
At the rear, it's the bolt head on rear of outer control arm....quite easy to see and adjust.
The computer read out should show the relationship between left and right of the car and measurements should be equal or within the + - tolerances given.

Hope this makes it a bit more clearer for you and as they say forearmed is forwarned...or as some quip would suggest....
a little knowledge is dangerous ;o)=)_

 

Max, old buddy-
I think you posted the camber numbers for cars driven on the "wrong" side of the road.

 

Hello Ross,
Nope, I looked into that and made sure that the specs were for North American market cars as opposed to 'Rest of World' models.