Alternator diode test
#21
The BPM and SLCU can be reset by a Jaguar hard reset
There are stereo head unit security code ( lock out from use ) precautions though
The BPMis behind the glove box
SLCU is by the trunk left hinge ( behind the side liner ) and is mounted at a slight angle
I think its the side liner as you can remove the fwd liner as this one is easy
The BPM must be programed with software if replaced and there is a tag with the software version in the engine compartment by the front windshield
There are stereo head unit security code ( lock out from use ) precautions though
The BPMis behind the glove box
SLCU is by the trunk left hinge ( behind the side liner ) and is mounted at a slight angle
I think its the side liner as you can remove the fwd liner as this one is easy
The BPM must be programed with software if replaced and there is a tag with the software version in the engine compartment by the front windshield
#22
Essentially a 1 amp draw is huge! Do you have anything that’s aftermarket installed in the car?
If your answer is no, in my experience of current draws in these cars, these are the most common components of failure for excessive draw.
Body processor module (BPM)
Security locking control module (SLCM)
Door module. There’s 1 in each door.
Excluding the alternator, what have you done so far to try and diagnose or narrow down your excessive current draw? Do you lock the car door with the key and all the locks pop up and down? There is also a timeframe in which all the modules go into “sleep mode” after you lock the car. I find that 30-60 minutes is the norm and that’s when the ma number for the draw is at the most accurate.
Last thought. How old is the battery and is it a good quality one? Sometimes when I perform a draw test I need to use a new battery just to rule out the possibility that the battery itself isn’t the issue of giving me a false draw number.
If your answer is no, in my experience of current draws in these cars, these are the most common components of failure for excessive draw.
Body processor module (BPM)
Security locking control module (SLCM)
Door module. There’s 1 in each door.
Excluding the alternator, what have you done so far to try and diagnose or narrow down your excessive current draw? Do you lock the car door with the key and all the locks pop up and down? There is also a timeframe in which all the modules go into “sleep mode” after you lock the car. I find that 30-60 minutes is the norm and that’s when the ma number for the draw is at the most accurate.
Last thought. How old is the battery and is it a good quality one? Sometimes when I perform a draw test I need to use a new battery just to rule out the possibility that the battery itself isn’t the issue of giving me a false draw number.
#24
I don’t know of any videos for replacing the door modules. The thing is, you don’t want to just go throw door modules (or any other module for that fact.) at your car unless you have an abundance of parts at your disposal and just don’t want to diagnose. Another thing to take into consideration is that if you diagnosed a module to be a culprit for your excessive draw, who’s to say that the replacement module you got is the same if not worse of a current draw than what you had? That’s the downfall of things.
However, if you really want to diagnose the door modules, this is what you gotta do. Open all 4 doors and latch all of the doors as if they were closed (but they’re wide open) move both front seats as far forward as you can, remove both rear heel boards to gain clear access to the fuse boxes. Fuse #13 & 15 of both fuse boxes (all 4 fuses are 25 amps). After the modules are “supposedly asleep” and you see your roughly 400 ma draw, pull ONE of those 4 fuses out and take note of your current draw. DO NOT put that fuse back in. It’ll wake up that door module and you’ll have to wait another 15-30 minutes for them to go back to sleep. Make your notes about the ma drop (if any) and go on to the next door module fuse. You have 4 of them to do so get that done next.
However, if you really want to diagnose the door modules, this is what you gotta do. Open all 4 doors and latch all of the doors as if they were closed (but they’re wide open) move both front seats as far forward as you can, remove both rear heel boards to gain clear access to the fuse boxes. Fuse #13 & 15 of both fuse boxes (all 4 fuses are 25 amps). After the modules are “supposedly asleep” and you see your roughly 400 ma draw, pull ONE of those 4 fuses out and take note of your current draw. DO NOT put that fuse back in. It’ll wake up that door module and you’ll have to wait another 15-30 minutes for them to go back to sleep. Make your notes about the ma drop (if any) and go on to the next door module fuse. You have 4 of them to do so get that done next.
The following 3 users liked this post by Addicted2boost:
#25
Essentially a 1 amp draw is huge! Do you have anything that’s aftermarket installed in the car?
If your answer is no, in my experience of current draws in these cars, these are the most common components of failure for excessive draw.
Body processor module (BPM)
Security locking control module (SLCM)
Door module. There’s 1 in each door.
Excluding the alternator, what have you done so far to try and diagnose or narrow down your excessive current draw? Do you lock the car door with the key and all the locks pop up and down? There is also a timeframe in which all the modules go into “sleep mode” after you lock the car. I find that 30-60 minutes is the norm and that’s when the ma number for the draw is at the most accurate.
Last thought. How old is the battery and is it a good quality one? Sometimes when I perform a draw test I need to use a new battery just to rule out the possibility that the battery itself isn’t the issue of giving me a false draw number.
If your answer is no, in my experience of current draws in these cars, these are the most common components of failure for excessive draw.
Body processor module (BPM)
Security locking control module (SLCM)
Door module. There’s 1 in each door.
Excluding the alternator, what have you done so far to try and diagnose or narrow down your excessive current draw? Do you lock the car door with the key and all the locks pop up and down? There is also a timeframe in which all the modules go into “sleep mode” after you lock the car. I find that 30-60 minutes is the norm and that’s when the ma number for the draw is at the most accurate.
Last thought. How old is the battery and is it a good quality one? Sometimes when I perform a draw test I need to use a new battery just to rule out the possibility that the battery itself isn’t the issue of giving me a false draw number.
#26
I don’t know of any videos for replacing the door modules. The thing is, you don’t want to just go throw door modules (or any other module for that fact.) at your car unless you have an abundance of parts at your disposal and just don’t want to diagnose. Another thing to take into consideration is that if you diagnosed a module to be a culprit for your excessive draw, who’s to say that the replacement module you got is the same if not worse of a current draw than what you had? That’s the downfall of things.
However, if you really want to diagnose the door modules, this is what you gotta do. Open all 4 doors and latch all of the doors as if they were closed (but they’re wide open) move both front seats as far forward as you can, remove both rear heel boards to gain clear access to the fuse boxes. Fuse #13 & 15 of both fuse boxes (all 4 fuses are 25 amps). After the modules are “supposedly asleep” and you see your roughly 400 ma draw, pull ONE of those 4 fuses out and take note of your current draw. DO NOT put that fuse back in. It’ll wake up that door module and you’ll have to wait another 15-30 minutes for them to go back to sleep. Make your notes about the ma drop (if any) and go on to the next door module fuse. You have 4 of them to do so get that done next.
However, if you really want to diagnose the door modules, this is what you gotta do. Open all 4 doors and latch all of the doors as if they were closed (but they’re wide open) move both front seats as far forward as you can, remove both rear heel boards to gain clear access to the fuse boxes. Fuse #13 & 15 of both fuse boxes (all 4 fuses are 25 amps). After the modules are “supposedly asleep” and you see your roughly 400 ma draw, pull ONE of those 4 fuses out and take note of your current draw. DO NOT put that fuse back in. It’ll wake up that door module and you’ll have to wait another 15-30 minutes for them to go back to sleep. Make your notes about the ma drop (if any) and go on to the next door module fuse. You have 4 of them to do so get that done next.
Replacing the module was quite simple 3 screws 2 plugs. The door panel was the hardest part. Thanks for that tip, I will keep that reference to try when needed.
Last edited by ant17; 10-18-2021 at 07:51 PM.
#28
The following 2 users liked this post by ant17:
Addicted2boost (10-19-2021),
Parker 7 (10-19-2021)
#29
Essentially a 1 amp draw is huge! Do you have anything that’s aftermarket installed in the car?
If your answer is no, in my experience of current draws in these cars, these are the most common components of failure for excessive draw.
Body processor module (BPM)
Security locking control module (SLCM)
Door module. There’s 1 in each door.
Excluding the alternator, what have you done so far to try and diagnose or narrow down your excessive current draw? Do you lock the car door with the key and all the locks pop up and down? There is also a timeframe in which all the modules go into “sleep mode” after you lock the car. I find that 30-60 minutes is the norm and that’s when the ma number for the draw is at the most accurate.
Last thought. How old is the battery and is it a good quality one? Sometimes when I perform a draw test I need to use a new battery just to rule out the possibility that the battery itself isn’t the issue of giving me a false draw number.
If your answer is no, in my experience of current draws in these cars, these are the most common components of failure for excessive draw.
Body processor module (BPM)
Security locking control module (SLCM)
Door module. There’s 1 in each door.
Excluding the alternator, what have you done so far to try and diagnose or narrow down your excessive current draw? Do you lock the car door with the key and all the locks pop up and down? There is also a timeframe in which all the modules go into “sleep mode” after you lock the car. I find that 30-60 minutes is the norm and that’s when the ma number for the draw is at the most accurate.
Last thought. How old is the battery and is it a good quality one? Sometimes when I perform a draw test I need to use a new battery just to rule out the possibility that the battery itself isn’t the issue of giving me a false draw number.
Last edited by ant17; 12-04-2021 at 05:53 PM.
#32
There was a resent posting that was an important note that the final sleep mode has to be tested with the trunk closed otherwise the security system doesn't think the car is buttoned up yet
You may be able to tap into the bus protection module terminal nuts with a couple of lead wires with the meter outside the closed trunk to do a valid test
Other then that there is another test procedure to do to isolate your problem ..........
....----.......
You may be able to tap into the bus protection module terminal nuts with a couple of lead wires with the meter outside the closed trunk to do a valid test
Other then that there is another test procedure to do to isolate your problem ..........
....----.......
Last edited by Parker 7; 12-06-2021 at 07:25 PM.
#33
There was a resent posting that was an important note that the final sleep mode has to be tested with the trunk closed otherwise the security system doesn't think the car is buttoned up yet
You may be able to tap into the bus protection module terminal nuts with a couple of lead wires with the meter outside the closed trunk to do a valid test
Other then that there is another test procedure to do to isolate your problem ..........
....----.......
You may be able to tap into the bus protection module terminal nuts with a couple of lead wires with the meter outside the closed trunk to do a valid test
Other then that there is another test procedure to do to isolate your problem ..........
....----.......
The following users liked this post:
Parker 7 (12-07-2021)
#34
I will be developing a battle plan today on your issue while I take are of some other things today so this post will be edited as I add things
In the beginning as you rotate the ignition key from the 0 position through to the 1 , 2 , 3 position , final one being starter enable
This is different then the pin positions on the ignition switch connector and pin # 5 being a important one
The ignition switch commands the important relays in the fuse boxes which distribute power to the corners of your car
I refer to them as King relays but their real names are X bellow and can be seen on page 31
Auxilary Positive Relay / Right heelboard fuse box
Ignition Positive Relay / Left heelboard fuse box
EMS Control Relay / engine management fuse box
Ignition Positive Relay / engine compartment fuse box
There is not one for the trunk fuse box
You have 2 refed to as ignition positive relays the second one located in the Left Heelboard Fuse Box and the first one located Engine Compartment fuse box ( and not the other Engine Management fuse box )
With your keys in your pocket the King relays will be relaxed or open and this is a basis for trouble shooting
An important distention on the fuse boxes is that most of the fuses are hot at all times and don't reiie on the king relays to be closed but some do relie on the king relay in the fuse box to be closed
This can be seen on page 31 compaired to page Y
An example would be the Left Heelboard fuse box with the labeled vertical wires one being Battery Power Bus ( hot at all times as it bypasses the ignition positive relay at point 3 square ) and ignition Power Bus ( reiies on the relay to close at point 2 double hash circle )
This point 2 double hash is on page 34 left side of page so the fuse 10 , 12 , 14 , 16 rely on the relay to close
Point 4 square is on page 33 right side of page so fuse 1 - 9 and 11 , 13 , 15 , 17 and 18 are hot at all times , this is the same for all fuse boxes
http://jagrepair.com/images/AutoRepa.../jagxj1998.pdf
An example is the SLCM fuse in the trunk that is hot at all times
But we will be looking at your electrical distribution as the bigger picture with the SLCM ( and associated security system parts like your door module ) as a potion of that
You can have one of these relays remaining closed ( controlled by a faulty ignition switch ) on a intermittent timing basis or the inside power contacts "floating "
Break time for morning meds
We will be removing these king relays to measure your battery drainage
Let me go back up in the text and specify which relays to pull and you may see something immediately on your meter if your intermittent issue is faulting at this time
In the beginning as you rotate the ignition key from the 0 position through to the 1 , 2 , 3 position , final one being starter enable
This is different then the pin positions on the ignition switch connector and pin # 5 being a important one
The ignition switch commands the important relays in the fuse boxes which distribute power to the corners of your car
I refer to them as King relays but their real names are X bellow and can be seen on page 31
Auxilary Positive Relay / Right heelboard fuse box
Ignition Positive Relay / Left heelboard fuse box
EMS Control Relay / engine management fuse box
Ignition Positive Relay / engine compartment fuse box
There is not one for the trunk fuse box
You have 2 refed to as ignition positive relays the second one located in the Left Heelboard Fuse Box and the first one located Engine Compartment fuse box ( and not the other Engine Management fuse box )
With your keys in your pocket the King relays will be relaxed or open and this is a basis for trouble shooting
An important distention on the fuse boxes is that most of the fuses are hot at all times and don't reiie on the king relays to be closed but some do relie on the king relay in the fuse box to be closed
This can be seen on page 31 compaired to page Y
An example would be the Left Heelboard fuse box with the labeled vertical wires one being Battery Power Bus ( hot at all times as it bypasses the ignition positive relay at point 3 square ) and ignition Power Bus ( reiies on the relay to close at point 2 double hash circle )
This point 2 double hash is on page 34 left side of page so the fuse 10 , 12 , 14 , 16 rely on the relay to close
Point 4 square is on page 33 right side of page so fuse 1 - 9 and 11 , 13 , 15 , 17 and 18 are hot at all times , this is the same for all fuse boxes
http://jagrepair.com/images/AutoRepa.../jagxj1998.pdf
An example is the SLCM fuse in the trunk that is hot at all times
But we will be looking at your electrical distribution as the bigger picture with the SLCM ( and associated security system parts like your door module ) as a potion of that
You can have one of these relays remaining closed ( controlled by a faulty ignition switch ) on a intermittent timing basis or the inside power contacts "floating "
Break time for morning meds
We will be removing these king relays to measure your battery drainage
Let me go back up in the text and specify which relays to pull and you may see something immediately on your meter if your intermittent issue is faulting at this time
Last edited by Parker 7; 12-07-2021 at 12:23 PM.
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
Johnny786
S-Type / S type R Supercharged V8 ( X200 )
7
08-05-2021 04:40 PM
Currently Active Users Viewing This Thread: 1 (0 members and 1 guests)