Hi All been a while I know but have been looking at the forum just no prob until!!!
well as its warming up decided to start putting replacement bit on the XJ
and found the batter flat so charged it and fired up, only to find the batter lt on and a message saying no charge.
so checked the battery terminals and sure enough, it wasn't
removed the alternator and got it checked not good blown diodes
so purchased a new one online and took it to get tested B4 putting it in and all good saw the warning lt go out all good
put it in the car and still get the battery Lt coming on so checked the battery and 13.98V all good.
I didn't leave it running to check the fault messages.
is this a simple case of resetting the computer fault codes, as I did notice in the wiring diagram the pug on the rear of the alternator had 3 wires
mine only has 2 and that all you need as per testing.

Before

During

During

so whats the go on this people
pls
regards Dutchy

 

I always take the car's original Alternator to my local rebuilder and she uses the correct parts.
She said the Toyota alts use the same parts (DENSO) and she gets the regulator crossed to the correct numbers.

I had a 2001 S-Type (X200) that I thought was the same as the X308/X100 but the regulators are DIFFERENT.
She got the correct one and it worked properly.

I never had good luck with the auto parts store EXCHANGE parts due to the issue you have (the unit charges but the light stays ON)

I know my local rebuilder is good because she helped with a 1929 Rolls Royce Generator and when I got it back it worked flawlessly. (needed rewinding)

Find a good rebuilder and stick with them for starters/generators/alternators.

 

+1 you have the wrong replacement for your alternator.

 

I did by a Denso
the old could not be rebuilt here in OZ due to parts
it still dosent answer the question why the diagram says 3 wires when there are only two
it was brought from a reputable company who deals in jag parts
I would say that as auto elect use spade connectors a lot they just selected the correct wire terminal
I think all I have to do is change the plug combination eg ign pos and sending wire.
I will find out tomorrow and let everyone know so if they buy this Denso what to do instead of running back to the auto elect who will probably charge
ps a replacement here is $650 - $700

 

I know you have almost 14 volts when running the engine, but how sure are you that the battery itself is ok? I would remove the battery and have it load tested.

 

The wiring diagram shows that only two of the three pins are used - Pin 1 and Pin 2. Pin 1 is for the charge indicator light. Connector pinout:

 

I concur with the prior posts, but to add to them...

Either while it is running or has run for awhile and shut down. Go back and grab ahold of the cable casings at the battery and feel it for warmth. If you have warmth (or hot), you probably have corrosion in the cable or a poor ground and need a new cable. I attached the Electrical Troubleshooting pdf, ...it will give you some good points to check.

 

Brought a new Battery few months back

 

Hey Dutchy
As Highhorse said wiring may be worth checking, i place my bet there
J

 

Yes I am sure it is there haven had a chance to photo the plug as its different to M.S

 

No
​​​​​​​

 

Take the crate to the nearest alternator and starter rebuilder even if it in Brisbane: have them check it out. They trouble shoot a couple hundred or so starting and charging systems a month . . . the frustration alone is worth going pro. And since the system is essentially a basic Denso design used by Toyota, Mitsu, Mazda, as well as later model Jags and Land Rovers, it is not complicated. My choice, you have a bad cable, connection, or ground.

 

An often overlooked cable connection is the bulkhead connector in the engine compartment. Disconnect the battery and disassemble and clean the components.

 

M. stojanovic
The wiring diagram shows that only two of the three pins are used - Pin 1 and Pin 2. Pin 1 is for the charge indicator light. Connector pinout:
mine seems to be wired to 2 and 3 so I am going to test the middle pin with ign on to confirm 12v then jump the 2 wires together so the battery light thinks the alternator is running there by haveing positive on both sides of the batter lt and hey presto it should go out.
wish me luck
ps have clecked removed and cleaned all earth straps



the locking clip is on the underside

2 wires centre and to the left note the locking clip position

when inserted to the alternator the locking clip is on the LHS (outer edge) which means using top and middle pins on alternator

rear of alternator

 

I would not jump the two wires together as the one for the warning light may not go directly to the charge warning light but to the instrument cluster electronic circuitry first (see Fig. 08.1 in the diagram).

As shown on your pictures, the two wires are connected correctly to Pins 1 & 2. The white/pink wire on Pin 2 (middle) is correct and it is for ign. 12V. However, on Pin 1, you have some black wire but it should be slate/white. Slate/white is for the charge warning light.

 

yes I did see that and decided not to jump it
I have requested the terminal configuration from the supplier they want the numbers off the old unit shame long gone now.
I have made an adaptor plug that connects to all 3 on the back of the alternator
one certain thing is the white wire is ign and goes in the middle (2) I have tried the black in 1 and 3 still the same
Q. Do I have to reset the car maybe clear all faults?
the local auto elect said to put batter power to terminal 3 and the sensor wire (black) back on 1
still no good
tried battery on 1 and sensor on 3
still no good

I think I am at the stage of removing the alternator and putting it on the test bench to sort it out
also looking foA 3.2L
thanks for the info

 

This is a word document I have put together for the XJ* X308 Alternator

https://drive.google.com/file/d/1qKv...ew?usp=sharing

 

Here's another picture of the Jag Denso regulator pinout (corresponds to the markings on the connector I posted above).



Either he black wire you have on Pin "L" (Pin 1) is a wrong wire (should be slate/white) or the regulator in your new alternator is faulty or incorrect type. Is the new alternator you got a rebuilt Denso or "no name"?

When my original alternator stopped charging, I just bought new good quality (USA company) rectifier, regulator and carbon brushes and replaced them. It is very easy to do on Denso alternators, takes about 10 minutes.

 

Hummmm
good food for thought about the regulator, I have seen these available
mine is a rebuilt Denso,
not sure if all regs are the same
one thing if for sure that's the IG in the centre
Q S= signal?
Q L= Lamp?
so that's the crunch which one to my warning lt
I have tried it in both
I have also tried positive on pin 3 centre IG and 1 to the lamp
I have also tried positive to 1 centre IG and 3 to the lamp
it seems so difficult for the supplier to tell me what the output pins are on the alternator
still waiting for a response from Schmitz_re this was from the UK

I think this new alternator is going to have to come back out
God one thing as a tradesperson is I hate to do something twice
because of other bumbling people and picking up after them
like a true salesperson give us your money good luck and F@#$ off
next customer

 

No, no....Dutchy, please.....don't hold back. Tell us how you really feel.