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Dutchy, that connector doesn’t look in good shape at all. Maybe you should consider replacing the connector with new wires already in it with like 6” of new wires.
Also, your battery ground cable looks fairly green. Whatever you decide with the alternator situation, check to see if the charging voltage is the same putting the ground side of your meter at the battery terminal and at the body where the negative terminal attaches at the body. Just before I went on a long trip with my family last thanksgiving, while I was cleaning off the windows and warming up the engine, I decided to take a quick peek at the battery. I’m sure glad I did! After about 5 minutes of warming up, I checked the charging voltage at the battery and noticed the negative battery cable was quite warm. There was a .4 volt difference on my meter reading at the body side of the negative cable and the battery negative terminal. I fortunately had a good spare on hand and changed it out within minutes. After that, the voltage reading remained the same on the body vs the battery -.
Q S= signal?
Q L= Lamp?
so that's the crunch which one to my warning lt.
L = Warning Light
S = Voltage Sensing (by the regulator); This pin, where used, is connected to the positive supply from the alternator/battery somewhere downstream in the wiring to account for certain voltage drop along the wires and connectors. Where not used, the voltage sensing is done inside the alternator and this pin (Pin 3) is just a dummy pin (not actually connected to anything inside the regulator).
For the rebuild of my alternator, I bought the following parts:
No, no....Dutchy, please.....don't hold back. Tell us how you really feel.
Ha Ha
have a look at what happened to my STHIL whipper snipper FS80
it was STHIL most of its miserable life
O! get a new carby the salesperson said
well this is how it ended its miserable life
The beginning The pay back of hrs pulling the cord The Judgment The Verdict The satifaction The feeling of oblivion
And now its all concrete a double drive way O what a Feeling!
so an alternator would not be dificult
HA Ha
The only problem I seem to be having is the supplier doesn't respond to my question about just tell me what pin is what on the alternator he sent me
I have resigned myself to the fact it's gotta come out bench it and find out for myself.
I haven't been near the car for a few days now.
a break is a good thing
so this weekend is removal day.
I will keep you all posted I will get the info off the alternator to make it work on the jag
so someday may save someone from the pain of it all
first step order a new plug with 3 wires on it
ok so the supplier sent this to me today Thursday 15th
D, IG,L
this is the rear of the alternator
1= L is the top? which is RHS
middle =IG
3 = D is the bottom? which is LHS
does everyone aggre with that or am I mixed up between 1 & 3
I dont know yet what D requires Batter + maybe
Ok, please, no one hate on me for this....
This is from the X308 Workshop Manual..pgs 1881-1902, excluding the SC models pgs. I included all from removal of the alternator, to disassembly of it. In the removal, ...regarding a suppression module negative cable where fitted. I don't know what Dutchy has fitted, thus the inclusion.
I also included the suppression module location for review and since it was included in the instructions.
I hope this helps you some more Dutchy and anyone else reviewing this....
On Denso regulators, "D" stands for "dummy", i.e. not used, so nothing needs to be connected to it. You need to use only IG and L. However, the original Jaguar (Denso) regulator has S-IG-L pins but the "S" (sense) is not used. Perhaps the difference between the D-IG-L regulator you have in the new alternator and the original S-IG-L (even though the S is not used) is the cause of the warning light not going off. With the existing two wires of your 3-pin connector, was the warning light correctly operating on the old alternator? If yes, you can try with replacing the regulator of the new alternator with the one from the old alternator as they rarely go bad (unless you intend to return the new alternator).
Thanks Highhorse
I have that manual and printed of thoes pages a while back
the problem is the replacement alternator uses 3 wire # 1 is the problem it is know as D
2 centre is ignition and 3 the signal wire to the where ? the dash not only has the battery indicator light but the message comes up battery not charging
which leads me to believe the wire from 3 known as L must go to a moduel
a wiring diagran of the wire that travels from the alternator would help
M.S said before about changing the regulator this is becoming a high possibility
the supplier finally sent me the 3 pin connection on the back of the alternator which I believe I already posted
But thank you my friend for your help
I sure do get some brain teasers
rembering the would not run saga
Dutchy, that connector doesn’t look in good shape at all. Maybe you should consider replacing the connector with new wires already in it with like 6” of new wires.
Also, your battery ground cable looks fairly green. Whatever you decide with the alternator situation, check to see if the charging voltage is the same putting the ground side of your meter at the battery terminal and at the body where the negative terminal attaches at the body. Just before I went on a long trip with my family last thanksgiving, while I was cleaning off the windows and warming up the engine, I decided to take a quick peek at the battery. I’m sure glad I did! After about 5 minutes of warming up, I checked the charging voltage at the battery and noticed the negative battery cable was quite warm. There was a .4 volt difference on my meter reading at the body side of the negative cable and the battery negative terminal. I fortunately had a good spare on hand and changed it out within minutes. After that, the voltage reading remained the same on the body vs the battery -.
L = Warning Light
S = Voltage Sensing (by the regulator); This pin, where used, is connected to the positive supply from the alternator/battery somewhere downstream in the wiring to account for certain voltage drop along the wires and connectors. Where not used, the voltage sensing is done inside the alternator and this pin (Pin 3) is just a dummy pin (not actually connected to anything inside the regulator).
For the rebuild of my alternator, I bought the following parts:
Great and I found this on EBay
Do you agree that L is the top pin looking at the back of the Alternator when mounted in the car
also I have been looking around for Rectifer's
I think it is part # JLM20498
On Denso regulators, "D" stands for "dummy", i.e. not used, so nothing needs to be connected to it. You need to use only IG and L. However, the original Jaguar (Denso) regulator has S-IG-L pins but the "S" (sense) is not used. Perhaps the difference between the D-IG-L regulator you have in the new alternator and the original S-IG-L (even though the S is not used) is the cause of the warning light not going off. With the existing two wires of your 3-pin connector, was the warning light correctly operating on the old alternator? If yes, you can try with replacing the regulator of the new alternator with the one from the old alternator as they rarely go bad (unless you intend to return the new alternator).
the old Alternator is long gone the diods were blown out the auto elect said parts not available
yes all warnings and lights have been fine for years, only when the battery went flat did I find alternator problems
I would like to see where the other end of the L wire goes to
eg a module as I think it wont go straight to the battery fault lamp because you get a typed message battery not charging so it must go to a module
Do you agree that L is the top pin looking at the back of the Alternator when mounted in the car...also I have been looking around for Rectifer's I think it is part # JLM20498
It is very simple to determined looking at the regulator socket or the connector:
They also sell pigtail connector for the regulator:
I have ordered the plug
do I need to replace the rectifier as the existing one is new
I think just the reg or maybe it wont fit the existing diode plate
The regulator (the link I posted earlier) fits the original Jag Denso alternator. If your "new" alternator is also Denso (refurbished or whatever), then the Jag regulator should also fit.
The regulator (the link I posted earlier) fits the original Jag Denso alternator. If your "new" alternator is also Denso (refurbished or whatever), then the Jag regulator should also fit.
yes I agree and have asked the supplier of the Alternator to send me that reg you posted
Thanks M.S
regards Dutchy
Well today removed the new Alternator dropped it of at the auto elec for testing and explain what pin is the lamp
the number on the alternator is LRA02286 which seems to come up as a Lucas
also my alternator does not have a ground (neg) connected to it
anyway now is anyone has a wiring diagram for the system from the Alternator to the dash and message warning
where it all starts at the Alternator and goes to say a module / ECU I would think because of the readout message
thankyou in advance Dutchy
Last edited by Dutchy; 10-20-2020 at 06:05 AM.
Reason: addition
Dutchy, that connector doesn’t look in good shape at all. Maybe you should consider replacing the connector with new wires already in it with like 6” of new wires.
Also, your battery ground cable looks fairly green. Whatever you decide with the alternator situation, check to see if the charging voltage is the same putting the ground side of your meter at the battery terminal and at the body where the negative terminal attaches at the body. Just before I went on a long trip with my family last thanksgiving, while I was cleaning off the windows and warming up the engine, I decided to take a quick peek at the battery. I’m sure glad I did! After about 5 minutes of warming up, I checked the charging voltage at the battery and noticed the negative battery cable was quite warm. There was a .4 volt difference on my meter reading at the body side of the negative cable and the battery negative terminal. I fortunately had a good spare on hand and changed it out within minutes. After that, the voltage reading remained the same on the body vs the battery -.
When I checked the batter neg it was just blue paint
volts at fram and battery terminal same no loss
maybe in the engine bay to frame is worth the check
Hey highhorse, that's a nice post with all of the information on removal/installation and rebuilding. I tried to get my alternator out this afternoon and got stuck on #10 in the removal process. Actually 10-and-a-half, 'cause I got the bolt out. Now, it will pivot but won't release from the bottom of the mount bracket. I noticed that there's a bushing on the rear bolt hole; is that a locator dowel, too? I'm done for the day, so asking before I go out tomorrow afternoon and pull the oil filter to get to that thing.
There is a bush or spacer
all I did was remove the belt, then undo to main bolt and the top bolt
get a long bar and leaver the alternator up and down eventually it drops out the bottom
had to remove the fans to get it out through the front.
good lug they are tight in the bracket and bush
regards Duchy
10-12-2020, 09:27 PM
Btw, I have that same maul, ..that's a great swinger...as you've demonstrated...lol.
