Hi, I'm just about completed my LS conversion into my 1999 xk8 everything running great just can't get the gauges to work. Tach, water etc., What conversion are you using? what issues are you having?

 

Jaguar Specialties. Andew is the head guy, My kit from him came with a CAN module that runs the the gauges and reverse lights. There is a separate module that runs the A/C. Guessing he will sell those individually even if you don't buy the whole kit. No issues except the guy who flashed my computer programmed the wrong output from the ECU to run the tach. Suppossed to be crank emulate 98-02 Camaro. Sending computer to him as soon as exhaust done.

 

Like Keith, I'm using the Jaguar Specialties kit. It's been available for years and Andrew has quite deep expertise with these cars. That said, his specialty seems to be more the XK series so you may want to reach out directly to him to let him know where you stand and what he has available that would work. He's been very responsive throughout my project. The CAN module and AC module he sells are key components to get the systems to work with the LS drivetrain. There is zero compatibility with the GM CAN protocols and the Jag one and that's the biggest value-add of his kits. You get all the dash stuff to work as normal, along with functional AC control, if you're reinstalling it. You'd reuse the Jag temp sender and oil switch, along with a couple other things to integrate his modules. You do also end up with two OBD2 ports: one for the OEM Jag module to read body codes, AC, ABS, SRS, etc. All engine/drivetrain codes would come from the second one and are driven from the GM engine computer. Well worth a call in my opinion if you're far enough along that it's up and running except for the dash/etc.

 

How rude I am answering a question to Tom! When I first saw the post I thought I was on my thread.

 

Thank you very much, I am working with him he is a great guy. He is ironing out a few issues for me know. This is all I have left to do on this project.

 

Nah - not at all! All is good!

We're both working to get these things done! Knowing there's another Jag LS swap lurking within the broader forum is nice info!

 

Thread update: I've put about 250 miles on the car so far, all related to finalizing the MAF and speed density tune profiles to accommodate the Stage One cam I put in. I'd say it's at about 98% completeness, though my tuner (former GM powertrain drivability engineer) is way, way more picky than me and would admit to 90% at best. Couple areas of the mapping still need to be finessed.

Working on tweaking the throttle cable routing to try and improve the feel. I used the same solution PcolaPacker did whereby I kept the Camaro electronic throttle body and gas pedal, relocated it and connected a cable from the Jag gas pedal to the electronic one, ensuring the full travel at one end equaled full travel at the other. However, the pedal is quite firm now, which does make sense in and of itself. The tip-in is a little rough and could be smoother, though minor in the grand scheme of things.

I have to get a minor exhaust leak sealed up where the passenger downpipe from the Camaro cats connects to the back section as there's a slight noise I hear when it's cold. Gauges are all working exactly as they should, tach and speedo match the displayed outputs from the GM ECU. The most annoying aspect of driving the car so far is that the setup for the reverse lights on the XJ8 shifter (the swap uses that instead of the original XJR one) is made up of a reed switch and small magnet that won't stay in place. I haven't found a way to keep the magnet in the "exact", precise to the millimeter spot it needs to be in to keep the lights from staying on when moving from reverse to drive. But, I can now get the top of the console off and out of the way for my hemostat pliers to fiddle with it in about 20 seconds. Hopefully this evening I can get that resolved once and for all without resorting to a cave man solution like JB Weld to keep the magnet in place.

The hunt is also on for an AC compressor manifold adaptor for the Camaro/GM compressor. I've decided that reusing the Camaro's AC hard lines from the compressor and flaring the ends to accommodate crimped on connectors isn't worth it. I'd rather fab up lines that are only as long as they need to be and reuse the original Jaguar ends for the condenser and evaporator.

I'm still quite happy with how this has turned out...

 

You are way farther ahead on this project than I would be. My engine swaps
have always proved be in the "never ending" category. The single exception
was a 1980 Oldsmobile diesel conversion.

 

Thanks!

Those Olds diesels were interesting for sure... I remember drag racers offering decent money for the bad diesel longblocks back in the day so that they could turn them back into a gas engine and benefit from the (supposedly) stronger lower end components. Definitely would have been an easier one than this, but all in all, this could have been much, much worse without the CAN interface to get the dash working properly. I can't imagine someone doing just the "metal" part (mounts, crossmember, etc) and then having a dash that doesn't work, is full of error messages and no working speedo or tach. I learned a lot about how the Jag CAN works in the process. I never would have thought the car needs a proper tach signal in the dash to get the heater valve to close...

Am still debating the wisdom of the Stage One cam though. I'd be farther down the road without the tuning it requires. That's where PcolaPacker would jump ahead of me - - he's plug and play with his stock L99/6L80E. The L99/LS3 is plenty good in factory form but since I can get bored of cars quickly, I wanted to do this with an engine that I could pull and drop into whatever my next idea might be. Would make selling this Jaguar chassis super easy for the next person as it would be "drop in the LS and 6L80E of choice and go." An afternoon worth of time at most for the next person.

 

Well, I've put close to 1750 miles on the car so far, and boy is it fun! I've had this car, and the stock 2001 XJR, side by side at our local "Pistons on the Square" car show a few weeks ago and while both drew some attention, the LS sitting in the engine bay of this one appeared to be the favorite. Still no AC and with summer having arrived in early April, it's getting more relevant to address this.

Tune is done, spark advance tables slightly updated which massively improved throttle response at mid-range and the misfire tables were tweaked to reduce their sensitivity and lengthen their response time. The Stage One cam was causing it to sense misfires, which I of course found out about on my way to mandatory emissions test after getting 6 of the 8 I/M monitors to set correctly (Yay!) However, addressing the misfire code cleared all the I/M settings and it's been a nightmare getting the CAT one to reset. GM's EPA Readiness Drive Cycle is a PITA... Thankfully this is last year for test as car is a 2000 and TX only requires 6 of 8 I/M to be active for this model year. As it set before, I know the hardware is all good.

Now it's time to address the "usual" X308 maintenance items I've not yet done: rear shocks/bushings/donuts, half shaft u-joint (at least one is bad, will be replacing all 4) and various front suspension items as well. What's slightly frustrating about the front suspension stuff is that this car appears to have had a ton of front suspension work done right before it sat for years and years. Steering is tight, dead on straight, no vibrations, etc. and the shocks and bushing all look quite new. However, because it sat in TX sun and heat for ages, the boots on the upper and lower ball joints and outer tie rods are all nearly completely disintegrated and open to the elements. Oh well, parts are already on hand. I appreciate all the posts and insights from others on the best way to address each of these items.

 

You've got more miles on it in the few weeks since it was finished than I did in my X308 all last year!

 

Well, my plan has always been that it would be my daily driver, so I want things to be "right". This I/M monitor stuff is driving me insane. Did an 80 mile loop following yet another cold-start GM readiness test cycle with no luck when I went to move the car this morning (Upper ball joints for the 2001 XJR are on the agenda for this afternoon/evening!) It's looking like I am going to have to pursue a waiver for the car. Texas offers low mileage waivers (less than 5k miles since last test with less than 5k anticipated until next required test) or an individual car waiver. Given that I've done all the work myself except for the exhaust fabrication, my challenge will be showing labor costs/$$. I have receipts for everything else, including the car the drivetrain came from. I am glad I kept all the emissions items as-is upon installation to the Jag, it should make things easier.

 

Living in the "Great state of Texas" is doing you no favor with emission laws.
I suspect a waiver is your best bet as well.

 

Mine is my only car, it's just I almost always ride motorbikes.

Sounds like you're going the best way to sort things until you can get all that I/M stuff sorted.

 

Thanks! It'll work out... Your reference to a motorbike being primary mode of transport reminded me of my former spouse who was UK born and bred (Leicestershire) and how frequently people used motorbikes as primary transport under conditions that most riders here wouldn't dream of going out in...

 

I could find a pic of a tour of Spain one January where I've got frost on my jacket, an open face lid & ice in my beard to prove how daft we are, but I won't Freezing fog for hours on a bike is no fun.

 

After almost 2000 miles on the swap, and ever increasing hot days here in TX, I finally got around to having the AC lines made up last week. I replaced the original condenser, drier and got a new GM AC compressor so that everything was/is fresh. Local aircon specialist fabricated the lines using the OEM AC line ends and also reuse the Camaro compressor manifold. Had to modify the Jaguar Specialties AC module connections slightly to trick the GM ECU into turning the high speed fan on when the AC is active, which in turn made the GM ECU set a P0481 Cooling Fan Relay 2 Control Circuit code whenever the ignition is turned on with AC on. Other option would have been to install a trinary switch but none of us wanted to do weld in a new port and the associated wiring. Tuner is going to code out the P0481 from setting as there are enough other ways the ECU will notify of a cooling fan issue.

I will need to have the driveshaft rebalanced as I've traced the recurring vibration to the rear flange. Originally it was made with a Spicer 22-329 but the updated adaptor from JS calls for the larger 22-479. Enough of a size difference to throw the balance off. I've also noticed that despite the solvent test/etc my oil pan fabricator did when making the oil pan, there is some leakage of oil at the welds. Interestingly, it seems to be leaking more now with the brand of oil I used most recently (Castrol Dexos equivalent) instead of the Mobil One I'd had in it originally. May switch back and see if the other formulation leaks less...

On the 45 minute drive to the tuner yesterday the AC was positively FRIGID, coolant temperature was dead on where it should be and, with the windows finally able to be closed while driving, the exhaust note was not bad at all. I'm still debating getting some sort of a resonator on the system as the L&R dual cats only with straight pipes is very rowdy, especially on a cold start. We shall see...

 

I had the same. Probably more accurately described as seepage than leaks. Could not see where coming from, but if left on paper towel with water in pan after some time water got through. Mixed up some JB weld and spread with a finger on inside of pan need seepage spots. That fixed it.

 

Yeah - I remember you telling me that at the time. And yes, "seepage" is a better descriptor than leak for sure. Now that the engine is in, I'm not doing the engine-out to remove the pan and do it from the inside. It was suggested that I clean it well and then use the high temp JB epoxy on the outside edges. It's on "the list" to address...

 

Nice work putting the miles on - makes it feel worth while. Sorting the AC was the last thing I did, but made it tolerable to drive in any condition for sure. How bad is your cabin drone? Mine was unbearable, I've since added a Magnaflow resonator (12468 I believe) and it helped quiet the car down, and has a nice burble/cackle, but a LOT of drone still in the cabin.