Here are some pics of the gaskets.

Can these heads be shaved to rectify? in order for the gasket to seal properly, or this affect the closing of the timing chain cover?

Has someone done this on these heads (we have in other cars with success)

Does warping = internal crack on these heads or not necessarily? Needs to be pressure tested to confirm?

Is it time to order a replacement engine?
Or can it be saved?

 

the heads do need pressure tested and yes they can "deck" or plane the surface of the heads, usually no more than 0.020" and it will not affect your timing chain.

 

usually you don't need a new engine unless the block and rotating assembly is damaged beyond repair. That being said, if it takes several thousand to rebuild this one it may be worthwhile to get a used one with low miles on it. I would wait to see what you find out from the machine shop first before making the jump to buying a new engine. If you were able to take the heads off yourself, I'm betting you're a good enough "shadetree mechanic" that you could reassemble an engine if you went the rebuild route. Plus lots of support from people here that definitely know a lot more than I do about this stuff.

 

Ok, sounds like a plan, and here in the caribbean we are palm tree mechanics!

 

Got news from the machine shop today.

Pressure tested, passed. No internal cracks
Valve seats, ok, not leaking.
Warped head, corrected at 0.013"
Ready to be picked up.

Any additional recomendations before I start to put all these bolts back in place?

 

make sure the surface of the block is nice and clean...I usually use a nice scotch brite pad and try to get a uniform look. Then clean it real good and you should be good to go. Sounds like that head may have been warped a bit and that was causing the overheating. I would not re-use the same head bolts just to be safe.

 

Bolts are on the way, keep you guys posted once all is back in place.

 

I am a bit skeptical in believing that the valves aren't leaking at least on the exhaust side just a little. Me personally, I would get a full valve job, new valve stem seals and have them adjust the valves. But that's just me. The car is 19/20 years old and I'm sure they need some attention. Unless they don't want to cut 32 valves and 32 seats. Lol. I know it's a lot of work. But hey, it's your car.

 

Correction, the warped head correction was 0.009", not 0.013". And got a new set of bolts to go with the heads and the gaskets!! Can't wait to put it all back together.

 

Hope you got a good torque wrench that goes down to 9 NM. The cam caps are 9-11 NM. Also a good breaker bar as well. After you go 35 NM (the second torque step) on the head bolts, make a reference mark at 12 O'clock on the bolts when you do the 90° + 90° so you don't go too far. I've not experienced it but, I've heard about a few people that have striped out threads in the block. Not sure if it was going too far or not but I wouldn't want to deal with that can of worms. Just take your time to get it all done right the first time. Also, do you have access to a straight edge to check the block surface?

 

Be very careful cleaning the block. Even a scotch Brite pad can leave marks. The surface should be very smooth feeling, almost polished. 40RA is spec I think.

 

Last update on the topic.

Finally we put all back in place and test drove the car. So far so good. No overheat and is running smooth.

We can conclude that it was another head gasket problem, with weird symptoms because it was a mild gasket failure, but a failure never the less.

Thanks for the help of all the members, now I can start nip picking other small details.