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My right side arch is on its way to this condition and I think my left side will eventually be there, so I'm very interested in how this goes for you as its the only corrosion I've found on my car yet and I'd like to keep it for awhile longer.
My right side arch is on its way to this condition and I think my left side will eventually be there, so I'm very interested in how this goes for you as its the only corrosion I've found on my car yet and I'd like to keep it for awhile longer.
same here i have a couple small chips on the hood/bonnet i need to sand and put rust inhibitor. keep you posted on the wheel arches though
Good luck with that, I bet it goes deeper than you think when they start cutting it out.
Mine will need rear arches soon, I keep ignoring them as I've got other things to spend money on currently. I have already had the rear end of the sills & the rear suspension mounts welded up which wasn't a cheap job. I'd suspect your rust might go that far as I think water getting in there would be inside the same structure & trapped till it rusts a hole to get out again.
Good luck with that, I bet it goes deeper than you think when they start cutting it out.
Mine will need rear arches soon, I keep ignoring them as I've got other things to spend money on currently. I have already had the rear end of the sills & the rear suspension mounts welded up which wasn't a cheap job. I'd suspect your rust might go that far as I think water getting in there would be inside the same structure & trapped till it rusts a hole to get out again.
yeah i think so too. that foam stuff is hot garbage. may get a parts car or if i can find a rust free rear end later on. do you have any pictures of the work you had done(rear end of sills and rear suspension mounts)? so i can check mine
yeah i think so too. that foam stuff is hot garbage. may get a parts car or if i can find a rust free rear end later on. do you have any pictures of the work you had done(rear end of sills and rear suspension mounts)? so i can check mine
No pics sorry, but the mounts looked ok till I put the car in for the rear subframe bushes. The garage told me when they went to undo the bolts at the front, the whole mount section from the floor of the car spun with the bolt! No wonder it feels a bit better to drive now.
If you get to it before the rot, drill some holes that you can fit rubber plug in. Spray inside cavity with waxoil or equivalent. One the rust starts, it always requires more cutting than you planned for.
The painting is the easy part, prepping the surface for paint is what takes time.
If you get to it before the rot, drill some holes that you can fit rubber plug in. Spray inside cavity with waxoil or equivalent. One the rust starts, it always requires more cutting than you planned for.
The painting is the easy part, prepping the surface for paint is what takes time.
where would you recommend drilling the holes? i’m not there yet, just curious.
Was thinking of making another thread but i’ll do it when i do more repairs. The plan is to get squared body panals of the rear arches cut out of a parts car near me and have a shop them weld in. Im very much a beginner in auto body, i’m not even a mechanic. just a guy that likes cars(carpenter by trade). This is NOT a DIY guide. What you do to your car is up to you. The purpose this was not to repair. only to stop the rust from spreading. Also don’t be afraid to tell me how bad the primer looks. Beats looking at rust for me though haha. Any advice, recommendations or criticism is appreciated. first coat rust inhibitor 2nd coat 2nd coat of rust inhibitor 2nd coat 3 coats of epoxy primer Everything i used (missing mask) This one turned into a hole in the trunk Front left jack point ( those caps for the jack point were a terrible idea) Front right Jack point( this one scares me)
How precious is this car to you? I'm asking because by the time you've paid someone to do all the rust repair, you could buy a different rust free example. Now, it is fixable, but its going to be a long expensive process. Only you can determine if its a good idea.
I bet that front jacking point rust started much higher & came down through the double skin on the back of the arch into the sill. All three XJs I've had rusted from further up & it worked it's way down into the jacking point.
Rust as extensive as this could be very difficult to contain. As in most cases,
the oxidation has spread over a large area, and is almost overwhelming to
effect a complete repair. My hope is that you have access to a good metal-
worker.
How precious is this car to you? I'm asking because by the time you've paid someone to do all the rust repair, you could buy a different rust free example. Now, it is fixable, but its going to be a long expensive process. Only you can determine if its a good idea.
Ive always wanted to restore a classic muscle car 70s challenger or fastback mustang but they’re all rusted out worse than my jag or cost a down payment on a house. x308’s to me are a close second long body, v8, classic looks. when i first got the jag, it was just to learn how to work on cars, the plan was to flip it but i soon learned i was was over my head. i knew nothing and the car wouldn’t even crank. 3 years later and i’d say the most concerning areas on mine is the rust. interior is mint, r1 package, supercharged. i’d like to give the jag another chance after being neglected by the previous owner. also i have 2 uncles on both sides of the family who do or have done professional body work for a living and a friend who owns a paint shop. so it shouldn’t cost me too much probably just labor or materials whatever is more expensive.
I bet that front jacking point rust started much higher & came down through the double skin on the back of the arch into the sill. All three XJs I've had rusted from further up & it worked it's way down into the jacking point.
dang i’ll have look into that. ive read i’d could be due to a drainage pipe being left inside the sill from factory cause water to get trapped there