Hi everyone,
98 VDP 70,000 miles. The driver's window switches just stopped working the other day. The only window it will control is the left rear passengers, and then it will only put it down, not up. If you operate a window from the other seating positions, they all work fine, so I know it is not a motor, etc. Even when you use the key on the exterior to raise or lower the windows, they work as they should. Also, the drivers door controls work the passenger mirror but not the driver's. Any ideas?

Is this a fuse problem? I've checked, but maybe missing something? Is it a control module? I've tried the hard battery reset to no avail.... Should I take the door apart......again?

Thanks for your interest and your time, and I hope someone has the same experience as I have!

 

Most likely the master switch is bad (dirt,water...etc). Try taking out the switch and blow the contacts with an air gun or find a way to clean it inside.

 

thanks for the reply...
is this master switch located in the driver's door? If not, where can I find it? Thanks for your time...

 

me again-
also I've noticed now that the trunk lights do not illuminate!? Is this related to the window problem? I've checked the battery and it reads good: 12.56v...
Thanks for your time!

 

sounds like you have a wire or two broken in the boot loom, you'll have to check this. It's located behind the right hand boot hinge finisher. It's covered in a fabric tape you'll have to undo to check the bundle of wires for breaks. It's a common problem with these cars so you're no alone. It gives all sorts of odd situations with the electronics. Once you've joined up the broken wires check your non opp stuff and tape it back up.
Hope this helps!

 

i had this problem after pulling apart my door cards a few times to work on the speakers. there was nothing actually wrong, just the computers getting confused. try disconnecting/reconnecting the battery one more time, and see if it works, because it did for me

 

thanks so much for the input guys,
i'll try later today and let you know!

 

hi guys,
I took the door apart and blew out the connectors for the drivers window/memory/mirrors unit. Also tried unplugging it while battery reset, and reset it with it plugged in. The unit still only controls the rear left passenger window, and then only going down, in addition to the right rearview mirror only. In short, nothing has worked so far. Any other ideas? Could the computers be confused because I also have the "no trunk lights" problem? Again, it's a 98 VDP with 70,000 miles.
Thanks all for your time!

 

Try a "Hard Boot"

That's the first thing I do when my car seems confused.

Here's a link to the proceedure:

https://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/j...d-reset-38112/

 

thanks, I've tried the hard boot a couple of times with no result except a stalling of the engine on initial startup, which i've heard is normal. I actually got the window to go down without touching the switch, just playing with the connectors....very weird. Any other ideas people? Guess I'll keep trouble shooting....
Thanks for the input and help!

 

Here's the electrical diagrams for your year, if you want to follow along - look at figure 15.1

http://www.captainjaguarscathouse.co...ec%20Guide.pdf

All 8 switches - front driver up, dn; front passenger up, dn; etc., all go straight to the Driver Door Control Module (DDCM). The control signals from there are CAN Bus digital to the other door's modules.

All LH driver door switches receive power from the same fuse (LH Heelboard fuse box, fuse #2, 5A); so if one failed, they all would if it is this fuse.

The mirror joy stick switches are also connected straight to the DDCM with control going out digitally on the CAN bus...

SO, if you do not have loose or corroded connections between the switches and the DDCM (or corroded switch contacts), I'd suspect the module itself. You can certainly use a voltmeter measuring, relative to ground, at each switch wire's pin at the module - they should be at ground, going to 12V when you press the button. The wires are all color coded and the colors spelled out in the diagram, so this should not be too hard.

Also, if you're resourceful, you can unplug the switches and make the connection with a jumper between the 12V in the connector and a particular switch wire in the connector to make the DDCM think a switch is being pushed. Perhaps this is how you accidentally got a window to work when you were playing with the connectors? If the windows work this way, but not with the switches, the switch assembly is suspect - corrosion in the contacts or broken traces on the circuit board, perhaps?

Unplugging the DDCM and letting it sit for a few hours (or shorting between the 12V in and its ground) can't hurt (just to make sure all capacitors are fully discharged) to fully reset the module's microprocessor... but from that point, replacement is in the cards, if you can't find anything preventing signals from getting from the switches to the module.

 

gosh, thank you so much! What an informative and helpful post! You are the best. I will surely try what you suggest and get back to you!
Thanks so much again....