Hello there
Anyone in Las Vegas who has a Diagnostic Tool?
I have an XJ8 Vanden Plas 1999, that does not start after been apart
And I have not a "real" diagnostic tool for Jags..
And neither I want to haul it to Jaguar and get a bill of thousands of dollars..
So, whereof I asking if anyone around Nevada area has a diagnostic tool, that I can rent, or you comes by and run diagnostics, for $ OF COURSE
I really does not trust shops really..
So far I changed EVERYTHING from the fuel pump to the injectors, injectors has been on cleaning and balancing and etc..
Thank You

 

You can order an $8 or so ELM 327 Bluetooth diagnostic tool from Amazon.
Then you download and upgrade, for a couple buck, the Torque app.
Then you can scan to see if you have any codes and report them back here to help diagnose your issues.
The more you can tell us, the more those here on site can help.

Other items recommended would be a fuel pressure gauge,
..download the attached pdf for review,
..bookmark this site... JagRepair.com - Jaguar Repair Information Resource
..you can find things such as this in that bookmark... http://www.jagrepair.com/images/Auto.../jagxj1998.pdf
..there's nothing wrong with using an Inde' Tech (I have a great Irishmen Tech I use when needed), ...sure your paying for their time, but their less than a dealer, aren't restricted to the manual and they have the tools.

 

Hi and thank You for help
Thu, the links I already have since long!
Shall look for that ELM, thanx!

 

I am looking on the iCarsoft..

And was sending them a question about the LR V2.0

It had been nice, once I buy a scan tool it can be useful for some other cars too, BUT is that really good? Maybe it going to be lacking in efficiency for my Jaguar, instead..?


What is Your opinions? Below is attached my email to iCarsoft

What one do You think is the most valuable buy?


I was looking on another link here about Diagnostic Tools, and it seems like "our guys" likes the iCarsoft, but if I "have" to bring the wallet out, which one do I choose?


Ok, I can go the "cheap' side and do as Highhorse recommend, (by the way, Thank You Highhorse for reply)







"Hello there

I am about to buy one of Your LR V2.0 for Land Rover / Jaguar
(I have Jags 1999-2010 and 2015 so that is my main use for the tool, but “tinkering” around on Rover's too)
First question I have is following:
What exactly can I “see” with this tool and what can I do with it?
Fail Search? Reset? Erase? Etc..?
Second:
If I buy this iCarsoft, with Jaguar specs, can I still use it on other cars?
Like my family’s grocery getter, Our Suburban 2008? And so..?
I have one (expensive!!) Diagnostic Tool for VW/Audi, BUT that one can’t read other than… VW/Audi/Seat!!??
So that is why I asking
Thank You"
And got this answer:
"Hello Glenn,
Nice day.
Thanks for your email.
LR V2.0 is specific for Land rover and Jaguar.
It can work on your Jaguars.
The other on is Rover or Land Rover?
If you need to work on other cars,then you can check our multi vehicle tool
Such as CR Pro,CR V2.0(1+4).
Please find the attached"

 

That's a personal decision and what you want to spend and how specific you want to get. You may want to see if it does CAN and Transmission reads also, the ELM doesn't. You can simply get almost any OBII scan tool and it will work for you, some are more detailed than others. I say almost, because some simply aren't compatible. You can do a search on site here for scan tools, other members have their preferences. So review theirs before buying to see if theirs interests you more or not. I mentioned the ELM 327 because I have 2 I keep hooked up to both my vehicles. I can do live time referencing. There a many more out there, be sure to find what suits and works for you.

 

I got the iCarsoft CR V2.0(1+4)
Seems to work ok, (by my knowledge), I tried it on my Suburban at first, downloaded GM and the Jaguar
But I still doesn't get my Jag started, checked fail codes, and erased the onces showed up before (only codes due to low voltage etc)
Now with another battery, no fail codes for engine and controls, just some for some lamps, and seat belt thingy etc..
The engine cranks around and I get fuel at the rail ( I have no fuel pressure gauge) but it seems to spray good, believe me
And if I pull out one of the spark plugs, I get spark there!
What can be wrong?
The battery is not new, but good amp

 

I have to make a few assumption based on the info you have provided. It sounds as though do to the injector work and fuel pump work your Jag has been sitting awhile. Since you verified you have spark that eliminates the CKPS (crankshaft position sensor). It tells the ECM the engine is rotating and the ECM can direct spark.
I think your problem is "borewash". Give this a try.
Make sure the battery has a good charge.
Turn the key to the first position. Don't try to start. Press the accelerator all the way to the floor. Keep it press to the floor during the following sequence. Turn the key to crank the engine and crank for 10 to 15 seconds. Stop and wait for about 30 seconds for the starter to cool. The repeat the cranking. Do this for about a half dozen times. Then on the 7th time crank the key as though you want to start the engine. While you are cranking slowly release the pedal from the floor. It should crank up with a nice cloud of smoke and then run. Let it run for about 5 to 10 minutes before shutting off.

 

I bought the iCarsoft also and liked it, but it is a Jaguar specific program on the one I bought. Recently I went to one a bit pricey, but covers other vehicles as well. Bought it on Ebay.

https://www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?_fro...+TPMS&_sacat=0

 

Scan tool choice isn't going to get this car started! Sounds like you have bore Wash. Did you try Vern's suggestion?

 

Thank You for ideas! I just waiting for a new battery I ordered. I followed suggestions from this Forum, and did not go "cheap", I order a good, (read expensive), battery with good "crank" capacity!
I hope that should guide me more towards a start!

 

What model of iCarsoft did You buy?

 

Nope, not yet, waiting for a new battery first. Kinda excited to try that!

 

I just got a new battery a Cummins, 960 battery, cranks good and I did the recommended test for Bore wash, as
avern1 said.. but nope.. nothing.. dead
Well have not too much time today, off to work,
I plan to do the whole list of tests, and I need to buy a pressure tester so I for sure gets right pressure on the fuel

( I just tried to press the valve, and yeah, it sprayed good thu! )
But I want to make sure it is exact pressure, and after that, check the rest.. It just should be starting, at least something, now.. :?
Seems to be fuel, spark, and cranks good, no engine fault codes..
Well, I going to scan it again.. tomorrow, or some day, start to get tired of this thing..
New fuel pump BOSCH, new hoses and EVERYTHING in the tank and connectors NEW OEM, cleaned the fuel lines and rails, K&N Fuel Filter, injectors been away for cleaning and balancing, Spark Plugs, New Fuel, New Battery.., bought the iCarsoft, checked codes and erased failures....
What do I miss?
Maybe ends up in Craigslist in the weekend as a project! well, I don't know..

 

There was a member who recently experienced a similar issue and he went through all the tests to even checking the timing on his cams and the tightness of the timing chains. There were 4 pages and 2 months on the thread when he found his TB butterfly was stuck from excessive gunk build up (apparently it dried shut). Its a simple check and clean even if its not the problem.

 

Sorry to hear the bore wash procedure did not get her started. I would next look at cleaning and/or replacing the crankshaft position sensor. Basically the starting sequence is when the key is turned the fuel pump comes on for 3 to 5 seconds to charge the rack. The shuts down, the engine is then cranking and the CPS tell the ECM that the engine is rotating and the ECM takes over. Also, check the camshaft position sensor. I can't recall for positive but I believe you only have one on the end of the passenger side cam cover. Make sure when inspecting and cleaning to make sure the wiring is in good condition. One other thing to check is the ground strap that runs from engine/transmission joint on the passenger side to the frame. Clean it and polish the connections.
Jaguar electrics operate by connecting to ground.

 

I think you still have bore wash (lack of compression because the compressions rings are not finding oil in the cylinder from being washed away by raw gas). Need to pull a few plugs on one bank and add engine oil through the plug hole, turn the engine over holding the pedal all the way to the floor, and allow compression to build in the cylinders you put oil. Let it sit for a minute then start it.

"I did the recommended test for Bore wash, as
avern1 said.. but nope.. nothing.. dead" doesn't always work. You need some cylinders with assured compression.

 

Hi and thank you for replies
But ... what is the TB butterfly??
I feel stupid, but I don't know what this is..

 

Ok so I got my new battery in! AND.. the Jag kinda started up, stuttered and died....
Ok, something..
And now I does not get fuel!!? The fuses are ok and I think I hear the pump prime, but NO fuel at the fuel rail
And again, I have to run off to work, of course.. :/. hmm
So I have to, in some way, figure out IF my pump really work or not.. It is brand new. and worked just fine earlier when I tested it, both before putting the tank back in and also the Jag started up at that time..
After that done, I send my injectors to cleaning and balancing service, and cleaned the fuel rails = and now, NO FUEL!!??

Anyone who wanna buy a cheap project?? In Las Vegas . Get a Jag and go to the Casinos/Hotels in the same trip!
Grand Canyon is awesome this time of te years

 

Don't be afraid to ask, if you don't know we appreciate the honesty. The butterfly is the brass looking disc in the elbow of the throttle body that controls air flow into the engine. Take off your plastic air intake line on the back of the motor and as you look down into throttle body you'll see the "flap" disc. Move the throttle cable and you'll see the "butterfly" (flap disc) open and close as you move it (or at least it should, if not, that may be the issue). You can look it up on Bing or Google also in case I haven't stated it to your understanding.

 

Ok, I give up. No more time or patience. And I need the space in the garage soon. I going to try to sell it instead IF I get any decent offer