XJ XJ8 / XJR ( X308 ) 1997 - 2003

Anyone in NY/NJ/PA area want to help with Timing Chain job?

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Old 12-09-2010 | 02:33 PM
chinny4290's Avatar
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Default Anyone in NY/NJ/PA area want to help with Timing Chain job?

Hi guys.

I know there's a regional section but bear with me, there's a hell of a lot more traffic here.

Anyway, I'm asking if there's anyone who's familiar with the timing chain job that would be willing to help, under the table? I will be buying the parts, and will be doing part of the labor myself, and will throw a couple hundred bucks, and meals to anyone who's willing to do it with me.

I try to be as much of a DIY mechanic as possible but after downloading a DIY PDF, I do not feel comfortable tackling the job, seeing as how the risk is a $5000 engine replacement, especially after I just bought the car last month and had to spend $5k to replace the transmission.

I don't seem to have any problems and the car drives wonderfully, but the more I read, the more I get scared, especially how I'm about 2k miles away from rolling over 100k miles. So I'm planning on wanting to get'er done within the next couple months.

I was quoted $2500 by one of the recommended shops on this forums and again, after just buying the car in November, and having to replace the transmission...well, pretty much, 'nough said.

I've also read that majority of the time, it's only the secondary tensioners. But seeing as how I'm trying to hold onto this car for as long as possible, if I'm going to be doing the secondary tensioners, I thought I'd might as well do everything if I'm going to be there.

If anyone is interested just send me a PM.

Thanks all.
 
  #2  
Old 12-09-2010 | 05:52 PM
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If I might recommend some advice:

I had a clutch go horribly wrong in my 3000GT (completely useless clutch, had to be replaced, was the original factory clutch, which do go bad after 10 years)

It seemed like a tough job, and I have never done a job on a car, not even the brakes (at the time)

I was very poor, and was forced to tackle the job myself. I rented out a shop for 2 days (about $20) and worked for over 11 hours out of 2 days, and was able to replace the clutch, which meant taking apart the wheel assembly all the way up to the transmission, and the transmission itself.

The same clutch still works today almost 4 years later.

The most important things I have learned:
1. Take your time, and remember everything that you have taken apart, with which tools, and items (nuts, bolts) even if you have to take notes.
2. Have someone to consult. We are here for you, but it would also be good to have a mechanic that you can call or talk to. Look for shops in your area that will let you use some workspace and tools. The guys there are usually very helpful.
3. Don't get scared, or give up. Keep on keeping on. If I can do my clutch with no previous experience, you can get these tensioners. From what I hear they would be easier than a clutch job.

I need you to do this for me anyway, because I might be in the same boat in the future, who knows.

BTW: What makes you think that they need to be replaced for sure? You say there is not anything wrong with it.
 
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Old 12-09-2010 | 07:30 PM
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I would be happy to help but Ellijay is a good ways away.

Why not do the more critical secondary tensioners. Having never done this job it took me 4 hours to complete the task and I was detailing the top of the engine as I went.

Want to talk, PM me for a phone number.

This is a very simple job with the Jaguar tool set. A little more scary removing the exhaust cams as I have broken a cam before (not on a Jaguar).
 
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Old 12-10-2010 | 12:14 AM
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Originally Posted by 3870x2
BTW: What makes you think that they need to be replaced for sure? You say there is not anything wrong with it.

I have the second gen plastic tensioners and everyone tells me, even though they last longer than the first gen, they still start to crack in between 60k and 120k miles and it runs the risk of breaking completely and killing the engine.

Am I just really paranoid?

My transmission died without warning so i don't want to have two major failures creep up on me, especially when the common failure point is around my mileage, and especially since I just bought the car. My car has been well maintained, but now it's come to the point that every time I start up the car, I get worried that my timing chain is going to jump. I could've just scared myself from reading too much

But in the end, it's the uncertainty of when and the fact that it's a lingering issue, a ticking time bomb with a mysterious timer.
 
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Old 12-10-2010 | 03:47 AM
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I agree with Test, the fast way as I advised in your other thread on the subject, is to whip off both cam covers, remove the exhaust caps on the cam, lift and replace the secondaries.
You can sleep well at night once again, the lower tensioners don't cause anywhere near the issues.
The full timing chain and tensioner job is a big one, with factory tools it's a long job. Just removing the crank pulley can be a nightmare to get the timing cover off.
One engine I did had a particularly tight pulley bolt, I heated it to break down the threadlock, and stood on a 3ft breaker bar, bouncing 14st on it, not something I recommend as once you see inside one of these engines, the parts are like a swiss watch.
The fast way as above will cure the one fault that will kill the engine if left. I can understand you wanting to refresh the whole timing chain, guide and tensioner system, but it's time and potential problems getting to the stage where it can be done.

You will need the crank locking tool, socket set and torx, torque wrench new tensioners and bolts, cam cover gaskets and sealer and marker pen.

The more you read about the job, the more you'll feel easy about it. plan the day. Print the pictures off. Lock the engine with the locking tool. Have a table you can lay the parts out as they came off. Get the coil cover, coils removed. Then the cam cover.
You're now half way there.
Mark the cam against the head so you have a guide to its position - it shouldn't move as the chain does not need moving off the sprocket, but don't turn it. Remove the caps for the exhaust, loosen first on all, let the valve springs push the cam up against the loose caps, you may need to tap the cam to release it. Lay out the caps and bolts as they came off. If you can have someone hold the cam as you remove the old tensioner, and install the new, it'll help immensely. Cam back down, torqued up cam cap bolts, cam cover with new gasket and sealer, coils in and coil cover. Then do the other side. You'll feel part of the club once she fires.....
 

Last edited by Sean B; 12-10-2010 at 04:02 AM.
  #6  
Old 12-10-2010 | 06:08 AM
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Originally Posted by Sean B
I agree with Test, the fast way as I advised in your other thread on the subject, is to whip off both cam covers, remove the exhaust caps on the cam, lift and replace the secondaries.
...
You will need the crank locking tool, socket set and torx, torque wrench new tensioners and bolts, cam cover gaskets and sealer and marker pen.

...
Hi Sean,

I'm in the same situation as chinny4290.
My mechanic disassembled parts of my engine to have a closer look and told me that the secondary tensioners (2nd gen) look like brand new and I shouldn't worry.
But even if I did not have the slightest problem with the engine concerning chains and tensioners, the more I read about that problem the more concerned I get.
So I will probably go that route someday in the near future and just exchange the 2ndary tensioners myself.

I was planning on doing it exactly the way you described (unbolting the exhaust cams) but what I don't unserstand in your posting above -
Why or to be more precisely what for will I do need the crank locking tool?
Is there really a chance of the engine with all it's aggregates still bolted on turning when just one of the cams is loosened?
And if so, is there no other way to "lock" the engine for that surgery?

I'm asking b/c I have really no clue where I could get Jaguar special tools.

David
 
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Old 12-10-2010 | 08:06 AM
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I did my secondary tensioners by lifting the exhaust cams and replacing the old with the new aluminum bodied ones. All I did was twist tie the chain to the cam sprocket while the saddles were off. Pretty easy. Keep the cam saddles in order, keep everything clean, replace the cam cover gaskets and spark plug seals, and spark plugs while you're at it. Nothing will get out of sync if you do not loosen the cam front bolt or mess with the chains. You need longer or shorter (don't remember) bolts for the newer tensioners. My tensioners looked okay at a glance, but when I got them out, I could see splits in both of the bodies. It's been running great since. Doing the primaries is a much bigger job.
 
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Old 12-10-2010 | 09:02 AM
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Lots of good advice here guys! Thanks for the excellent contributions.
 
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