Hi, for the year or so intermittently/randomly while driving the ABS light would light up with the "ASC not available" & "TRAC not available" on the readout. Shutting the car and restarting would clear it and it would not return for a few days. As of yesterday it is now always like this, no way to reset it or turn it off.

There are no codes stored (besides P1111) on my Torque ODBC Android reader. About a year ago when the message first happened I cleaned all 4 wheel speed sensors and the message stopped appearing for about 2-3 months then started again.

What are the possible causes? Would a failed wheel speed sensor throw a code?

Should I clean the 4 sensors again? It is a real PITA to take the rear wheels off as I don't have a real jack

If it is not the sensors, then is the ABS unit the only other possible cause?

Thank you!!!

 

Torque won't read Chassis codes, unfortunately. The best method would be to have the codes read by someone capable of reading them, either dealer or someone with WDS/IDS, though I believe the AutoEnginuity with Jag module is also capable. No harm in cleaning the sensors again, but that would be just guessing. You may have experienced a failure of the pump-motor power circuit in the module. Not a bad fix for DIY, total cost of about $30 assuming you do not already have soldering equipment. Again, I would try to get the codes read before I cut the module open, though. Good luck, post back what you find.

 

To vdpnyc, For what it's worth, I experienced this problem shortly after I bought mine. I managed to track down the original owner to inquire about extra keys (only got 1). He wanted to buy the car back in the worst way, while we were chatting I mentioned this happening and he said it was a failsafe built into the tranny setup. It would turn off after shutting the car down for a minute then restarting. The only time it has ever done this to me has been when I shifted from reverse to drive too quickly! Now that I was made aware of this it's only happened once since and that was my fault! Hope it helps...

 

The intermittent abs light is probably due to one of the connecting cables having a break that opens when steering to left or right or any wheel when the suspension flexes. You are going to have a hard time locating such a problem as long as it's intermittent.
I am seeing the same problem with my XJ6, but I have the Autoenginuity software on my laptop, and will take it for a ride this morning to see if I can catch the code if it isn't stored.

 

There is a bunch of info on the pump motor power solder issue in the archives. There are codes that it typically throws (that I don't know off te top of my head). It does take a code reader that will read chiassis codes as aholbro1 said. Try searching on ABS pump, or ABS fault or something like that. That may not be the problem, but it's not uncommon.

 

The ABS pump code is C1095, but that will show as soon as the car is started. Wheel sensor codes will display immediately if there is an open circuit, but not until the car is moving if a sensor is dirty or there is a broken wire that does not separate until the car is turning or the suspension flexing.

 

Hi,
I had exactly the same problem, same messages etc. it got so bad that it went into "Fail safe engine mode", I managed to get the car home and decided to have another look under the hood. I have attached a picture of the two fuse boxes at the front of the car, you will notice a short 6" or so cable connects the two, this supplies 12v to the fuses and relays. On mine there was a poor connection to the bigger of the fuse boxes, 1st. of all disconnect the battery, (make sure you have the radio code first :-)) I now made sure both ends of the cable were clean and bright and refitted it, I have since done over 50 miles without any warnings. I am pretty sure this cable was the culprit, it will only take you a few minutes to check it. Hope this helps.

 

Where are you located JimmyL? I am in Alexandria Va. Can you take a look at my 2001 XJR?

 

Not directly related to the issue at hand, but since electrical connections have been mentioned . . .

I cannot recommend strongly enough that if you are taking the time to dig in to electrical connections, cleaning them up, etc., that you apply a very thin coat of electrically conductive grease to all of these connections when you put them back together. If your problem was loose connections this won't help much but if oxidation/corrosion was the root cause it will prevent your having to deal with it again for the particular connection in question virtually perpetually.

The stuff I've been using for some years now is Sanchem No-Ox-Id A-Special. I have no affiliation with the company, I've just found that the stuff "works as advertised" and is readily available via eBay if you don't have any local supplier.

At one time I used dielectric grease, and for things like bulb contacts where a screw-in setup is involved I still do, as you don't want the lubricant shorting things out. For slide connectors, though, I like having something that both prevents oxidation and improves the connection to some extent.

Just something to think about.

 

Another candidate is OxGard by Gardner Bender. Convenient because Home Depot sells it for about $3/tube.

 

I may be a little out of league as mine is a 1995 X300, not X308, so possibly different....but I lived with the C1095 code for the better part of 2 years and can state with great confidence the ABS warning DOES NOT illuminate on startup. Rather, it only illuminates after about 300-500 yds of travel. Mine illuminated at almost the exact spot every morning in front of my neighbor's house.

Why did I abide it for 2 yrs? I dunno....fear of breaking loose that many brake lines.....then Motorcarman told me, "no no, just bend 'em gently as you roll the pump up/fwd/inboard....so I finally got the gumption...not a hard fix..

 

My XK8 responds immediately if the circuit is open. I checked it by disconnecting the pump. The XJ6 system may be different.

 

Okay, just now got to tending to this issue (had much bigger problems, lol)

C1095 is indeed showing up via the expensive repair-shop Snap-on-tools code reader; my inexpensive bluetooth unit shows no codes.

So now what? Is this conclusive that I need to replace the ABS pump or is there something else to check first?

The ABS works perfectly fine when the light is not on. And what about the "trac" message?

 

The problem is the solder connection on the circuit board in the abs module. The fix is to drill a hole in the case and use a 30 watt soldering iron, I used silver solder with a touch of paste flux.

JagRepair.com - Jaguar Repair Information Resource

But you may prefer to remove the module and send it to one of the repair sources you will find on ebay. They charge $50-70.

The trac message will also go away when repaired.