Bad Engine Hydramount Symptoms?
#1
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Hi,
I went ahead and got URO Hydramount replacements to replace both this weekend and just wanted to make sure that my symptoms are due to failed Hydramounts.
2000 Jaguar XJ8-L Vanden Plas Not Supercharged
207,000 Miles Single Owner
Symptoms:
On a smooth perfect road, coasts like butter
Going over a crack produces bad clunk, riding over something like a twig I could feel it in the driver seat.
Car veers to the left, recently brought in wheel alignment after outer tie rod replacement
I have observed the engine with the hood up, parking brake engaged, changing gears and depressing on both pedals. I did observe the engine rise up, though it was not drastic enough that I could confirm that the mounts are absolutely the culprit. The engine was rising I want to say roughly about 1-2 inches on the left side during this testing.
Work that I have done to remedy the poor suspension symptoms:
Replaced Outer tie rods and brought in for wheel alignment (I assume they did not take the vehicle on the road after as they said nothing of the persistent veering. Most likely aligned in shop, and driven a few feet in the lot when ready for pick up)
Replaced front sway bar bushings from dealership (old URO ones were still in good condition)
New Upper Shock Mounts with new bushings pre-installed
New Front Shock Absorbers
ICan anyone offer some insight as to the direction of my detective work before I start replacing the hydramounts/confirm my symptoms and diagnosis?
If anyone is confused, JTIS refers to the front L/R engine mounts as Hydramounts.
I am going to follow this video as a guide to replace them. I am a novice DIY mechanic working out of a small garage.
Thank you!
I went ahead and got URO Hydramount replacements to replace both this weekend and just wanted to make sure that my symptoms are due to failed Hydramounts.
2000 Jaguar XJ8-L Vanden Plas Not Supercharged
207,000 Miles Single Owner
Symptoms:
On a smooth perfect road, coasts like butter
Going over a crack produces bad clunk, riding over something like a twig I could feel it in the driver seat.
Car veers to the left, recently brought in wheel alignment after outer tie rod replacement
I have observed the engine with the hood up, parking brake engaged, changing gears and depressing on both pedals. I did observe the engine rise up, though it was not drastic enough that I could confirm that the mounts are absolutely the culprit. The engine was rising I want to say roughly about 1-2 inches on the left side during this testing.
Work that I have done to remedy the poor suspension symptoms:
Replaced Outer tie rods and brought in for wheel alignment (I assume they did not take the vehicle on the road after as they said nothing of the persistent veering. Most likely aligned in shop, and driven a few feet in the lot when ready for pick up)
Replaced front sway bar bushings from dealership (old URO ones were still in good condition)
New Upper Shock Mounts with new bushings pre-installed
New Front Shock Absorbers
ICan anyone offer some insight as to the direction of my detective work before I start replacing the hydramounts/confirm my symptoms and diagnosis?
If anyone is confused, JTIS refers to the front L/R engine mounts as Hydramounts.
I am going to follow this video as a guide to replace them. I am a novice DIY mechanic working out of a small garage.
Thank you!
#2
![Default](/forum/images/icons/icon1.gif)
I don't think your engine mounts are the problem. It sounds more likely to be bad control arm bushings, vee mounts, or the rear bushings holding the front subframe.
engine mounts generally produce idle vibrations. veering is certainly unrelated.
1-2 inches of lift on the left side seems like a fair bit, so it could be that the engine mounts are bad also, but from your symptoms list, i think you'll find the issue is elsewhere.
engine mounts generally produce idle vibrations. veering is certainly unrelated.
1-2 inches of lift on the left side seems like a fair bit, so it could be that the engine mounts are bad also, but from your symptoms list, i think you'll find the issue is elsewhere.
#3
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I agree with Quad on this. I do think a complete front and rear suspension overhaul is likely but, if you have receipts from the previous owner that says otherwise, that would definitely be a plus. Upper and lower ball joints needs to be highly looked at. If a boot is torn, it doesn’t mean that it needs replacement. The play (if any) in the joint is what counts.
#4
![Default](/forum/images/icons/icon1.gif)
I will take a more thorough look at the bushings on the knuckles before I dive deeper.
Just trying to do what I know I am capable of skill wise, plus a slight bit more of difficulty. The pivoting subframe from what I understand is a whole different monster.
I live in CA, so local mechanics all have quoted me that this is a 4 hour job at least $200/hr for labor.
My last question is, what would still cause the car to veer so noticeably after an alignment then, barring a completely careless alignment by an mechanic. For what it's worth, it's a shop that I have taken many cars to with good work.
The last owner was my father in law and my wife and I have inherited it and am trying to take care of it out of sentimental value. In our 4 years of owning, we have taken it on long weekends and what not. It has not been in any sort of accident in the time we have owned it so that lends me to believe, what ever the culprit is, it must have given out due to wear.
Just a shame, the car drove so unbelievably smoothly when we first took it on. Remarkable car!
Just trying to do what I know I am capable of skill wise, plus a slight bit more of difficulty. The pivoting subframe from what I understand is a whole different monster.
I live in CA, so local mechanics all have quoted me that this is a 4 hour job at least $200/hr for labor.
My last question is, what would still cause the car to veer so noticeably after an alignment then, barring a completely careless alignment by an mechanic. For what it's worth, it's a shop that I have taken many cars to with good work.
The last owner was my father in law and my wife and I have inherited it and am trying to take care of it out of sentimental value. In our 4 years of owning, we have taken it on long weekends and what not. It has not been in any sort of accident in the time we have owned it so that lends me to believe, what ever the culprit is, it must have given out due to wear.
Just a shame, the car drove so unbelievably smoothly when we first took it on. Remarkable car!
#5
![Default](/forum/images/icons/icon1.gif)
I also have to add to symptoms, that during the whole time this issue has been apparent, there has been significant uneven tire wear. There is pitting and gouges forming on what were good condition Yokohama tires.
This is symptom is what spurred me to replace the outer tie rod ends and get an alignment upon observing the outer tie rod boots were both ripped and depleted.
This is symptom is what spurred me to replace the outer tie rod ends and get an alignment upon observing the outer tie rod boots were both ripped and depleted.
#6
![Default](/forum/images/icons/icon1.gif)
I also have to add to symptoms, that during the whole time this issue has been apparent, there has been significant uneven tire wear. There is pitting and gouges forming on what were good condition Yokohama tires.
This is symptom is what spurred me to replace the outer tie rod ends and get an alignment upon observing the outer tie rod boots were both ripped and depleted.
This is symptom is what spurred me to replace the outer tie rod ends and get an alignment upon observing the outer tie rod boots were both ripped and depleted.
#7
![Default](/forum/images/icons/icon1.gif)
Check the ball joints as others have suggested, but I’m sure that your problem is the subframe bushings. Your car has over 200k miles, and if they’ve never been changed, I can almost guarantee that’s what your problem is. In my case, alignments could never quite get the alignment perfect until I replaced the subframe bushings.
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