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I don't use wrenches, I put mine on hand tight (wrenches should not be used to tighten any oil filter) with a light coat of oil on the seal and they generally come off by hand. If I have to, I use a rubber strap to get it moving.
You're a stronger man than I, Highhorse!
The instructions for many filters are to tighten 3/4 turn after the gasket makes contact with the engine seal surface. With my arthritis, I can rarely turn the filter that far with my bare hands, despite the oil on the gasket, especially if access to the filter is limited as it is on many modern vehicles. A correct wrench makes it easy and does no damage to the filter when used with care. The folks at Wix agree that a wrench may be used when necessary:
I have no qualms of that aspect, the issue is most folks can't just lightly tighten it with a wrench, ...they have to.....well.....wrench it on. Usually the fear concept of it leaking. It took me awhile to get used to the idea (trust) and proper application.
Sorry for the late reply, but as it so happened I changed the oil on a 2002 XJ8 today and thought I would take some photos of some of the oil wrenches in my collection and what seemed to work best on this particular X308.
Here are the three varieties of filter I had on hand (I stock up when I find them on sale), along with cap-style adapters that fit each filter. I have two large sets of these adapters in both cast alloy and stamped steel types, plus a number of additional adapters that I purchased individually (in case you haven't noticed, I'm a tool junkie):
The adapter that fits the Mann W719/7 is 75mm with 12 semi-cylindrical ribs. The adapter that fits this particular Jaguar EAZ 1354 is 75 mm with 15 flats (this NOS filter is marked Made in the U.K. and may date to the '00s - I got these from David at everydayxj.com). The cast alloy adapter that fits the Wix 51228 is 73mm with 15 flutes. Two stamped steel adapters also fit the Wix. One is 75mm with 15 flutes, and the other is 74mm with 15 semi-cylindrical ribs (this one fits tightly).
However, none of the cap-style adapters would work on this X308 with the AJ27. There is not enough space between the top or end of the filter and the inner face of the subframe. With their hex extensions on their top sides, the cast alloy adapters wouldn't even fit between the subframe and the end of the filter. There's just not enough clearance. I checked our 2003 X308 and it has the same limited clearance. I don't recall whether the same situation exists on cars with the AJ26 but I'll have a '98 X100 here on Thursday and will check:
The stamped steel adapters can slide in on top of the filter, but there's no room to insert the anvil of even a small-headed ratchet (this one is by Nepros of Japan, and as far as I know theirs are the best ratchets in the world). A 3/8" drive breaker bar would probably work, but it would be inconvenient every time you needed to adjust for a new swing, and there is the possibility that once the filter was loosened, the clearance would have decreased to the point the breaker bar and adapter could not be removed:
For these situations with insufficient clearance for the cap-style adapters, there are plenty of options. Here are some from my own collection. I own several others, but not the Facom adjustable types, which look interesting but are very expensive in the U.S.:
All of these will work on this X308, but all of them will scratch the paint on the new filter to one degree or another as M. Stojanovic mentioned. The large Klein strap wrench and plier-type wrenches can even crush the filter, which is not usually a problem if you're trying to remove a stubborn old filter, but you don't want to do it to your new filter.
So like Bob, the wrench I like most for the X308 is the plain old traditional band type. These come in several sizes, so choose one that will tighten securely on the X308 filters. This is an old Craftsman, made in the USA, probably by Danaher/KD:
Cheers,
Don
Thanks so much for your excellent post, Don!
You have proven that the cap type filter wrench I ordered from eBay will NOT work with my 2000XJ8 AJ27 engine. I will soon buy the HF one that Carnival Kid recommended.
I'm confident that will work. I doubt I will ever need to use that or any wrench to install a new filter, hand tight works for me. Especially since I discovered the I can remove the 13mm bolt & fiber piece (for air flow, I think) that is under the filter. No longer have to do it by feel & make a mess. I can see the filter & get a good grip on it.
Originally Posted by M. Stojanovic
I believe welding-on a flat on the above wrench would solve the space problem. The same should work on the Taiwan wrench (for Mann W719/7 or genine Jag filters). The Taiwan wrench is 36 mm high which would bring it to 40 mm with a 4 mm flat welded-on.
Welding on a "flat?"
IDK what you mean. Do you mean to take a thin, flat metal handle & weld that onto the metal cap? So, no need for a 3/8" ratchet which would not fit anyway. Then use your makeshift handle to crank the cap which will loosen the filter.
You have proven that the cap type filter wrench I ordered from eBay will NOT work with my 2000XJ8 AJ27 engine.
I have a genuine Jag and a MANN W719/7 oil filters and their OD-s are 76.2 and 76.0 mm respectively (not 75 mm as posted by Don) so the Ebay wrench should fit well. Yes, a flat to act as a handle could be welded to the back of the wrench, over where the square hole is.
I have a genuine Jag and a MANN W719/7 oil filters and their OD-s are 76.2 and 76.0 mm respectively (not 75 mm as posted by Don) so the Ebay wrench should fit well. Yes, a flat to act as a handle could be welded to the back of the wrench, over where the square hole is.
Hi M.,
I think you're on to something interesting! I just measured my adapter that fits the genuine Jaguar filters that I have and because of the odd number of flats, when you measure from one flat to the corner on the opposite side, the measurement is 75.10 mm, which may explain why the manufacturer deems this adapter's diameter to be nominally 75mm with 15 flats, as indicated in its item code, 75P-15:
No doubt a 76mm adapter with the correct number of flats will work just fine, but it does make me wonder if all manufacturers use the same measuring methods when determining the nominal diameter of an adapter.
Thinking about your idea of welding a flat bar to one of the stamped-steel adapters, I wonder if using a 3/8" drive serpentine belt tool might accomplish the same thing with less effort and more flexibility. I'm thinking of the flat bar type with a square anvil like this:
By the way, Graham, I found the Laser Tools 76mmX15 flat filter wrench like yours for less than USD $21.00 delivered to the U.S. from eBay seller davesgaragesupplies, so I ordered one for my collection.
The genuine Jag oil filter, EAZ1354, that I have, as well as MANN W719/7, does not have flats but 12 flutes.
What I measured were to OD-s of the filter cylinders (this is why our measurements differ) and the filter OD can be used to verify the suitability of the Ebay wrench (Taiwan) of which I posted a picture earlier. Below is the drawing of the same wrench showing that its ID is 76.2 mm (and 74.2 mm dimple to dimple).
Old fashion band type works just fine for me too. Always has. One for each diameter filter.
That vice grip looking thing just looks like a problem waiting to happen.
Update on the eBay 76x12 flutes filter removal tool https://www.ebay.com/itm/Oil-Filter-...EAAOSw-bReXg~U
As explained above it fits perfectly for Jaguar brand or Mann W7197 oil filter. However a standard ⅜" ratchet will be too thick to fit due to how close the subframe is. Rendering the filter renewal tool useless.
Recently I was shopping for a low profile ⅜" ratchet & could find none in stock, in town! I wanted to measure the thickness when inserted into my filter removal tool.
Some have the reverse lever recessed so does not add to the thickness.
I was watching YouTube videos & some measured the total thickness with a socket attached. But none measured what I needed, just the thickness of that chrome portion once the ⅜" square is inserted into my tool! I think thickness of ½" will work. I found one online that shows the measurement I need but was 0.58" thick. May not work. Don't want to order online & have to return.
So I found a video that show exactly what I need to make it work!
"ALLTRADE super low profile breaker bar" (I doubt that is the actual product description per ALLTRADE)
check @4:25 in video
That is lower profile than anything I’ve seen! I'm sure it would work! The guy describes it as “Piece of steel with an anvil put through it.”
I commented on the 1 year old video asking where he obtained that tool, no reply.
I emailed ALLTRADE after not seeing anything like it on their website, no reply.
Here is the video:
Update: Alltrade never replied to my question about the Alltrade tool in that video.
My comment/question to the guy who posted that video was REMOVED?!
I reposted the question & w/in hours it again was removed, WTF?
Very strange.
Has anyone, following this thread, watched the video I posted @ 4:25 minutes, seen the Alltrade "Breaker Bar?"
I know it exists & I want one. I wonder if this tool has another name since it does not look like breaker bars I have seen when I search for breaker bar.
They all seem to have a swivel & look like these:
Have you tried a serpentine belt tool like the ones I show in Post #25? The flat-bar type with the welded 3/8" anvil are very similar to the ALLTRADE tool in your video.
That serpentine belt tool is similar to many I have seen in my searches online ever since serpentine belt tool was mentioned earlier in this thread by Don.
They all seem to have a ⅜” anvil with a very long (too long for me) handle and a short handle (perfect length for me) with a ½” anvil.
If the short handle had a ⅜” anvil, it would be perfect!
The one's Don and I showed are a simple mod to shorten (even offset) the handle to your liking and clean up the end and perhaps dip it in... https://www.homedepot.com/p/Plasti-D...202196703-_-N& ...I build one off tools like this as needed.
You did see this one you showed, has a 6 point lug?
As for the those socket inserts (have those as well), you may as well go with this... https://www.harborfreight.com/sae-me...-pc-62305.html ...the socket sets into the head of the ratchet, giving you about a 1/2" more clearance. I have a set, used it once, but that once it worked well. Thus I got my max suggested use out of a Harbor Freight tool...lol...or you can get a set of these SAE/Metric https://www.harborfreight.com/sae-do...-pc-68959.html
I thought about it a second and you could file/sand off that chrome finish on the socket size you want, take a piece of 1/8" x 1" flat stock and make a same size hole as the OD of the socket and tack it into the flat stock and you have what you want. You could also take which of those square drive sockets and do similar...but I think it would be way easier for what Don and I showed and cut that down.
Eureka! Simple, inexpensive solution for those, like me, who lack welding skill & do not have a workbench vise to hold items to cut them.
I already had purchased the cap type filter wrench & only then discovered it will not work with my ⅜” ratchet. I already had a flat 9/16” wrench so, I bought the HF Square drive socket caps (never knew these existed b4!)
Q.E.D.
I’m sure it will now fit in the small space by the filter.
Last edited by Iconoclast; 02-22-2022 at 02:51 PM.
Reason: typo
03-24-2020, 06:20 PM
