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Aaaaand the Check Engine Light is on with Restricted Performance LOL
This is gonna be a good one. I suspect I'm stuck with the old girl. I will not take a loss this big, or give up on it because a bit of rust and CEL. Onwards and upwards.
Looking at the pics again, it looks like you have a fairly severe differential leak. I would do a fluid change just to ensure you have enough fluid in there as it looks like its been leaking for a while.
Looking at the pics again, it looks like you have a fairly severe differential leak. I would do a fluid change just to ensure you have enough fluid in there as it looks like its been leaking for a while.
I noticed that the other day too. No floor stains. But I've since then topped it off.
It seems to need to be resealed. Looks like I have to drop the entire rear subframe to do that job. There is way too much rust to tackle that job ATM.
So I was able to get the car on a lift.
The Good: frame is fine. Jack points are solid.
The Bad: there is legit rust everywhere in small to moderate amounts. Obviously rocker panels, at the corners of wheels arches, oil pan, rear subframe.
As a big picture thing it's about a 6 out of 10 on the rust factor. Considering what I paid for it, and how SOLID the trans and engine are, I'm gonna keep it and slowly fix things up starting on the MAJOR rust, then working my way to the smaller rust.
It just drives to darn sweet. After a few beers I barely even notice the rust.
Like I said earlier, I admire your positive attitude and really wish you the best. At least you'll have no worries about driving it. The last couple x308s I had were so nice/low mileage and ended up never driving them...
Preach lol as long it drives good I can get over the beer goggles sliding on and off.
Originally Posted by 87LC2
Like I said earlier, I admire your positive attitude and really wish you the best. At least you'll have no worries about driving it. The last couple x308s I had were so nice/low mileage and ended up never driving them...
yeah thank you. Odds are, I'll be keeping my eyes open for a prestine special edition XJR or XKR. Regardless this one here is my new daily beater bitch. Lol
Small Update:
Check Engine Light and restricted performance went away. Here it is play by play: I'm at a drive through to get food, CEL comes on, followed by restricted performance. Restricted performance goes away within minutes and car drives like normal. I go home, eat, sleep. Next day, I go to get the CEL read by Autozone and it wont read, then I go to a Valvoline, still wont read, then I go to a Midas and STILL wont read.
CEL is now gone and car is driving perfectly normal. Fluids fine. Temps fine etc.
I'm curious why none of these 3 different OBDII scanners were able to connect to the car. Any fuses I might be able to check? What is the most common reason for a car to not be able to be picked up by OBDII scanner?
These aren’t your average cars. I highly suggest you get your own scanner. You’ll be worlds ahead not having to rely on some of those places telling you what they think is wrong with the car. I don’t have a suggestion on which one you should get, but be 100% certain it can communicate with your car. You need to dig deep and look at which scanner you want to get and find out for sure if it’s known to communicate with it.
These aren’t your average cars. I highly suggest you get your own scanner. You’ll be worlds ahead not having to rely on some of those places telling you what they think is wrong with the car. I don’t have a suggestion on which one you should get, but be 100% certain it can communicate with your car. You need to dig deep and look at which scanner you want to get and find out for sure if it’s known to communicate with it.
I went with one I saw from a previous thread that connects via Bluetooth and I'll use the Torque app. Fingers crossed. Worst case scenario I'll return the item and try again.
Alright I've received secondary timing chain tensioners. Fingers crossed tomorrow I can get the valve covers off, then Tuesday finish the job.
Question: if I do this job with the timing locking tool, how does one use that tool? I've seen it does on other engines but the tool itself looked different.I've never used one and to be perfectly honest, the zip tie method seems fine with me and I've got a ton of zip ties.
I've read that no hoses need to be undone, and you just need to be patient and you are able to wiggle out the valve covers.
Wish me luck.
P.S. When timing is concerned, jumping a tooth would throw the timing off, hence the zip ties correct? And also making certain the exhaust cam does not rotate(keeping teeth in original position) that alone should ensure that everything goes fine correct?
Recently acquired my 2000 Jaguar XJR with 84k miles. 6 Owners, I'm lucky #7. It is black with white/black combo interior and the asteroid wheels. I love the car to death.
Here is a list of what has been done to it within the past 15k miles:
-Serpentine belt
-Supercharger belt w/ Gates Green belt
-Transmission fluid
-Water Pump
-x2 expansion hoses radiator to header tank
-Rear antenna
-Front shock mounts
-Fuel pumps/screens/filters
-Transmission plug adapter
-Alternator
-Battery
-Supercharger oil
-Positive battery cable
-Spark Plugs
-x4 oxygen sensors
-Fuel pump wiring harness
-x8 coil packs
-Thermostat
-Heater core hoses
-Pulley bearing/Supercharger tensioner pulley/all idler pulleys
-Valley steam hoses
-Supercharger Snout w/ 10% pulley upgrade
-High flow intercooler pump
-Air cleaner mount
-Supercharger gasket underneath boost bypass valve
-Charge air cooler(small 90 degree hose)
-Driver side radiator hose set
-Passenger side large radiator hose
-Throttle bypass hose
-Water outlet distribution pipe seals
-Supercharger rear gasket plate
-Supercharger outlet duct gasket
-Large short 90 degree hose from water outlet to engine block
-Water outlet o-rings/o-rings to engine block
-Heater core junction connector(3 way)
-Supercharger seal plate seal
-Back portion of supercharger rebuilt
-Front tie rod ends/lower ball joints/sway bar end links/shocks
-Brakes all around with new pads, rotors
Needless to the say the engine is running tip freaking top. But there are a few issues.
There is no history of timing chain components being done ever. There is ZERO rattle when starting cold and so that has me feeling okay. BUT there is a weird squeeking sound, I'll record video of it later and post for opinions.
One other issue is that the car kicks on the ASC and locks the right rear wheel for a split second every time I go over this one specific bump at my apartment complex. Not too big of an issue as I just bought a house and this bump will not be an issue anymore....but I'm curious what might be causing this problem as it does not feel safe when that happens. It occurs only at quicker speeds and if I slow down and roll over the bump there is no problem.
Other than that, my anxiety about the timing chain tensioners is killing and I've even had dreams about it. Any chance I might be in the clear for a while if there is no ticking or rattling on start up? Or should I just bite the bullet from the get go and get it all done?
Also, the car has a small rust spot or 2 being from the east coast. Eventually I'll have a shop take care of that. It also needs a new driver side seat cover as the leather is cracked.
Best,
Booshiba
P.S. My intent is to have this one thread for all updates of things I may do to the car. Rather than clutter the forum I'll keep it all here with updates to the most recent post of the entire thread. I may start new threads here or there when they are extremely specific issues. Thank you.
That rust is typical of New England/NY area, and so unfortunate for you that seller was a loser. I lived there for 47 years and hated what rust did to cars. The 2001 XJR I just picked up from Houston has much, much less rust (as noted in my other thread) and I still don't want to deal with it at all. It's too good of a car to part so I'm going to sell it and focus on the LS swap into the 2000 XJR I beat you to from San Antonio with the bad supercharger.
Last edited by 57loboy; 09-27-2023 at 07:27 PM.
Reason: brain cramp
Alright I've received secondary timing chain tensioners. Fingers crossed tomorrow I can get the valve covers off, then Tuesday finish the job.
Question: if I do this job with the timing locking tool, how does one use that tool? I've seen it does on other engines but the tool itself looked different.I've never used one and to be perfectly honest, the zip tie method seems fine with me and I've got a ton of zip ties.
I've read that no hoses need to be undone, and you just need to be patient and you are able to wiggle out the valve covers.
Wish me luck.
P.S. When timing is concerned, jumping a tooth would throw the timing off, hence the zip ties correct? And also making certain the exhaust cam does not rotate(keeping teeth in original position) that alone should ensure that everything goes fine correct?
Timing tools are very simple to use. Rotate the engine until the cam flats are both facing up, insert the crank lock, then lock down the cams with the flat bars. I did not use the crank lock when I did mine, but its good practice.
Nothing wrong with the zip tie method, but I'd rather do it properly. If you're not careful when torquing the cam caps down you will crack a cam. Have heard a few stories on here of that very thing happening. If you're careful it should not be an issue, but why disturb them when you don't have to?
Decided to get total piece of mind. Since entire rest of engine/trans is in great shape, low miles...I pulled the trigger on doing the entire timing system. All chains and tensioners and recommended gaskets. I am getting some major help at a MAJOR discount from a good friend who runs a great shop. The tech has worked on my E66, L322, and R129 so I trust him.
Once this bit is done, it'll be small rust repair here and there, tint, exhaust, and custom intake that I'll fab myself using whatever I can find LOL
will update once complete with pics of old tensioners to see their state at 85k miles.
So the entire timing chain system has been completed. Some interesting finds: the secondary tensioners were in perfect condition, but they were the plastic ones so still an UPGRADE technically.
The primary tensioner was probably a good thousand miles away from completely popping in half. Like it was BAD.
Anyway. Onwards and upwards. Will update later on I do some fun stuff.
09-19-2023, 09:55 PM
