Broken Clip at end of crossover pipe hose
#1
Broken Clip at end of crossover pipe hose
My 2000 X308 stopped taking fuel very nicely and I have a replacement CCV on order.
I live in the Northeast of the USA and the undercarriage was rusty.
The good news is I was able to get the old CCV valve off and remove the crossover pipe.
After a good brushing, a few days in vinegar, a coating of rust converter, rust primer, and sealing primer, the crossover pipe is ready to be attached. I cannot believe how good it looks after the cleaning.
Here is the dilemma. One of the plastic clips on the end had one of the prongs broken upon removal. The pictures are a generic of the crossover pipe I am talking about (part NND6067BE), my two hoses removed, and a close up of the missing prong at the end of the hose (slightly blurry).
Is this plastic piece replaceable? Is there another means to attach it to the carbon canister? Or since it is relatively low pressure should I just reattach it with three pongs instead of four?
Thank you for your help.
Sincerely,
Tom
I live in the Northeast of the USA and the undercarriage was rusty.
The good news is I was able to get the old CCV valve off and remove the crossover pipe.
After a good brushing, a few days in vinegar, a coating of rust converter, rust primer, and sealing primer, the crossover pipe is ready to be attached. I cannot believe how good it looks after the cleaning.
Here is the dilemma. One of the plastic clips on the end had one of the prongs broken upon removal. The pictures are a generic of the crossover pipe I am talking about (part NND6067BE), my two hoses removed, and a close up of the missing prong at the end of the hose (slightly blurry).
Is this plastic piece replaceable? Is there another means to attach it to the carbon canister? Or since it is relatively low pressure should I just reattach it with three pongs instead of four?
Thank you for your help.
Sincerely,
Tom
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Don B (01-09-2018)
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This may sound not so conventional, but Gorilla tape is a very, very good adhesive and a bit supportive. After cleaning and reinserting the connector with the hose and keeping pressure on it. I would wrap some Gorilla tape around it, being as careful as possible to get it straight, tightly wound and down on the neck of the canister as much as possible. Making sure you can get at least 1 1/2 winds, preferably 2, without breaks and zip tie both ends (as Bob said) to help secure it in place.
You also may be able to use a larger hose, to go over it, to do the same, but it has to be snug, not tight, and zip tie the same. Heat shrink isn't a bad idea either (again as Bob stated), you just have to find some big enough. Though I have a local place that almost assuredly would have it.
After-all, your seat is that green ring, your just trying to create rigidity to support the clip to keep it there.
You also may be able to use a larger hose, to go over it, to do the same, but it has to be snug, not tight, and zip tie the same. Heat shrink isn't a bad idea either (again as Bob stated), you just have to find some big enough. Though I have a local place that almost assuredly would have it.
After-all, your seat is that green ring, your just trying to create rigidity to support the clip to keep it there.
Last edited by Highhorse; 01-08-2018 at 04:15 PM.
The following 2 users liked this post by Highhorse:
Don B (01-09-2018),
motorcarman (01-08-2018)
#7
If you can source some 304 stainless steel wire you can loop it around the lip on the fitting and then around the canister having the final cinching twist away from the fitting on the canister . Remember to curl the remaining twist so you don't harm yourself later as you revisit the area . As long as you have a good seal and a tug test your functional .
I won't tell anyone if you don't tell anyone
I won't tell anyone if you don't tell anyone
Last edited by Lady Penelope; 01-09-2018 at 09:51 PM.
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#8
It took a while (lots of cold and ice in the Northeast of USA), but I finally have the CCV and crossover pipe installed.
For the crossover pipe, I used 1" stainless adjustable hose clamps to secure the hose to the pipe.
To keep it looking neat and tidy, I used Highhorse's trick with the larger hose piece (approx. 4") to go over the connector and the small lip on the plastic carbon canister.
Due to the width, I used a zip tie to hold to the lip of the canister and a 1 1/2" hose clamp on the other side of the connector. As mentioned by Motorcarman, even with a missing prong it feels secure.
For install of the CCV, I switched to stainless steel bolt for the CCV w/ a stainless lock washer for good measure. I intend to switch out the other five rusty bolts holding the carbon canisters w/ stainless once it gets warm (not going to chance breaking a bolt upon removal during the winter).
Per Lady P's suggestion, when I do switch the hardware for stainless, I will also be securing the whole exchange with the stainless wire. Hopefully this will give me many years of easily pumping gas.
Many thanks and good wishes for your helpful insight.
For the crossover pipe, I used 1" stainless adjustable hose clamps to secure the hose to the pipe.
To keep it looking neat and tidy, I used Highhorse's trick with the larger hose piece (approx. 4") to go over the connector and the small lip on the plastic carbon canister.
Due to the width, I used a zip tie to hold to the lip of the canister and a 1 1/2" hose clamp on the other side of the connector. As mentioned by Motorcarman, even with a missing prong it feels secure.
For install of the CCV, I switched to stainless steel bolt for the CCV w/ a stainless lock washer for good measure. I intend to switch out the other five rusty bolts holding the carbon canisters w/ stainless once it gets warm (not going to chance breaking a bolt upon removal during the winter).
Per Lady P's suggestion, when I do switch the hardware for stainless, I will also be securing the whole exchange with the stainless wire. Hopefully this will give me many years of easily pumping gas.
Many thanks and good wishes for your helpful insight.
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motorcarman (01-20-2018)
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