01 XJR 157k miles.

Pulled my throttle body off last night to send it out for rebuild and in the process of getting the lower coolant line off I managed to snap off a vacuum line on the elbow below the throttle body. It runs from the right side of the elbow and makes its way over to the brake booster. Assuming this isn't repairable, can anyone help me identify the part name and/or number so I can try to hunt one down? Photos below show the break on the elbow and the far end on the brake booster. Also, any tips or tricks on how to properly remove the old one?

Anything else I ought to be doing or checking while I'm down in here?

Thanks!


Snapped end at the TB elbow.

Brake booster end.

 

https://www.jagbits.com/product/MNC5910BG.html

 

Thanks Quad!

Ouch! That'll teach me to be even more careful in there. Hopefully I can find it for less elsewhere.

Are there any viable repair or replacement options other than OEM?

 

Any good reason why this wouldn't work?

 

[QUOTE=mayhem;2710990]01 XJR 157k miles.

Pulled my throttle body off last night to send it out for rebuild and in the process of getting the lower coolant line off I managed to snap off a vacuum line on the elbow below the throttle body. It runs from the right side of the elbow and makes its way over to the brake booster. Assuming this isn't repairable, can anyone help me identify the part name and/or number so I can try to hunt one down? Photos below show the break on the elbow and the far end on the brake booster. Also, any tips or tricks on how to properly remove the old one?

Anything else I ought to be doing or checking while I'm down in here?

Thanks!

How about a used one? https://www.ebay.com/itm/25596749292...Bk9SR-L1iZOfYw

This line looks intact. You will need to get the broken part out of the TB manifold to fit this part in. It's held in by a plastic and brass fitting and sometimes a problem to remove the vacuum line from the fitting. Might be easier to work it out from the inside. If you break the plastic part of the fitting, you can buy that as well online. It comes with the complete fitting; just remove the plastic part and use that as replacing the whole brass part is not necessary; or easy!

To remove the vacuum line, press in on the plastic ring surrounding the vacuum line and it SHOULD? be released and the broken end can be pushed out from the inside or pulled out from the outside. On my cars I have had various luck releasing these lines to the point of breaking the vacuum line and/ or the plastic part of the fitting.

I broke the vacuum line on one of my current cars awhile ago. Removed the broken part from the inside and stuffed the broken end of the line into the hole with a liberal amount of black gasket RTV. I have a new line and fitting now but have not taken the car apart to replace them...it's been nearly a year! Seems to be holding and the car is not leaking vacuum at that point. The the fuel trims look good so I take is as a positive!

 

I HATE 20 year old plastic!

 

Thanks David! I was looking on EBay for a used one and I guess I just didn't get the search wording correct. Just bought it so it ought to beat the throttle body back from repair.

 

Well doesn't that figure? Throttle body just arrived at the rebuild facility and the PPS connector got snapped off during shipping. Repair guy says he can reattach it and it "might hold up", but its an extra $250 to repair it. Since it went in for a sketchy PPS in the first place I'd rather not take that chance if it can be helped. I think I packed it pretty carefully, hopefully Fedex will agree...shook it and shifted it after I taped the box shut and nothing was moving inside, nothing was in contact with the box itself either.

I insured it for $1000 so hopefully Fedex will just settle the claim and I can buy an already remanufactured one and be back in business.

 

$250 to glue it back on…. Just let that sink in for a moment… if they were going to replace it with another PPS for that cost, that I can understand.

 

Got the new vacuum line, its intact and the check valve seems to work properly, just not sure how to get the old line out of the brake booster. Does it just twist and pull or is there a catch on there I need to release? Hoping to avoid breaking it.

Still waiting on Fedex to tell me if I'm insured or not on the throttle body.

 

I think there is a ring that you push in and it releases the line.

 

RJ's correct, you hold the outer plastic ring located on the TB elbow - pushing it into the TB as you pull the booster line out. A set of needle nose pliers pushed against the TB and another set to yank the old piece out works, or an open ended spanner does the same job of holding that plastic collar. It's the same principal as John Guest push fit plumbing components.

 

he needs help getting the other end out of the booster, not the throttle body. sorry I can't help there, but the internet should have ideas.

 

Ah, of course! it's held in with the rubber O ring, just wiggle it out, maybe a squirt of WD40 to aid, but it just comes straight out.

 

Thanks Sean! Just wanted to.make sure there's no release and risk snapping it off inside the booster.

 

Old plastic is always a risk to break unfortunately. Definitely use a spray type lubricant and I use a long skinny pair of needle nose pliers to pry it out from both sides.

 

I've got a $20 fix for that booster line. I got tired of messing with that thing so I got a -6AN fitting; male threads with a 5/16 hose barb. Tapped the hole with the brass insert in place and screwed it in. The OD of the booster line is 5/16, so a piece of vacuum hose and two clamps. Here's the AN piece.

 

Thanks Hispeed! Might have to go that route at some point. Maybe soon.

After a very long odyssey with Fedex insurance, they denied my claim. Automotive Scientific did right by me by swapping my broken throttle body with another one that came in as a core on a rebuilt one for no extra $$ on my part. Newly rebuilt TB showed up yesterday and it sure is nice to have it all freshly painted and whatnot. Took a bit of fiddling to get the coolant lines back on, but I eventually got it back in there ok. New vacuum line is in and seems ok. Reconnected the battery after like 3-4 weeks of it being disconnected, hooked up my code reader and set the pedal position cable as best I could and started it up. Got a high idle, like really high...3k rpm right away and it settled down to about 1500 after it was fully warmed up. Obviously not right. Pedal cable was definitely taut and I think holing the butterfly open a smidge when off, so I backed the adjustment off a bit, did a hard reset, repeated a few times to the point that I now have definite slack in the pedal cable and the pedal position sensor is guaranteed at its resting position when I start the car...still have a 1500 rpm idle. If I tap the gas pedal, the engine surges and stays running fast, like goes up to the 3k rpm limiter for a few seconds after I release the pedal.

Gave up for the night, disconnected the battery and decided to sleep on it. My best guess is I more than likely have a vacuum leak, possibly in that hard line I replaced...if that line has a small leak, I think it would cause this sort of behavior, right? Because I'm introducing uncontrolled air into the intake manifold, past the throttle body. Does this make sense? If so, what's the best way to try to locate an air leak? Spray bottle of water or something else and when it gets sucked into the hose it'll either surge or sputter the engine? I didn't apply anything to either end of the vacuum line when I installed it, both ends went in dry to their fittings, fittings felt tight and secure. Prior to installing I blew and sucked on both ends of the line and it seemed like it held air to me, but I didn't do anything else. I suppose I could take the end out of the manifold and plug up that hole and see if the idle is more normal, which would also help isolate that line. That shouldn't compromise anything other than power brake assist I think, right? Not needed if I'm not driving anywhere.

Any thoughts here?

Edit:

Seeing in another thread there may have been an o-ring on the old line that I didn't see on the end that helps seal it, so I'll have to look for that. David's notes above about using black RTV when he repaired his line is also suggesting that I might very well have an air leak right at the manifold insertion point, so I will investigate this spot first and see about plugging that hole up. If I pop the line out and plug the hole fully (in a manner that won't result in something getting sucked into the engine, so no tape I guess) that'll definitely tell me if that line is the leak and I can go from there fairly easily.

 

they are john guest collars lol