bulging hose?
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#7
Similar to an aneurysm in a blood vessel, the wall tension in that hose is now so high that it will rupture. I vote for not driving it until replaced (or at least until a slightly smaller diameter section is placed in the inside for reinforcement). Good job you are vigilant.
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#8
Just a quick question, Have you checked your water pump, because I had a very similar hose on my old XK8 and it turned out to be caused by the pump. As the coolant was overheating it was building pressure in the hose.
It might not be the pump but I would definatly get it checked and keep an eye on your temp gauge.
It might not be the pump but I would definatly get it checked and keep an eye on your temp gauge.
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It looks bad but I drove mine for about a year before I replaced it with a Uro brand hose.
At first I thought it was shaped that way on purpose. The actual hose material was in reasonable shape.
The new hose also bulges, if to a lesser degree.
Jag hoses are pretty tough, it seems to be that connectors and the plastic thermostat tower go first.
At first I thought it was shaped that way on purpose. The actual hose material was in reasonable shape.
The new hose also bulges, if to a lesser degree.
Jag hoses are pretty tough, it seems to be that connectors and the plastic thermostat tower go first.
#12
Well I got my replacemnt form JPAM... In order to get clearance I removed the header tank to thermostat bleed line.. in the process I broke the bleed line, It seems like the blastic and o rings had done a decent job bonding to themselves to the alumnium. Do they make a special tool for squezzing the disconnects on these hoses? If I would have been able to pull straight back maybee it woudln't have broken... My track record is pretty poor getting these little hoses off with out breaking them. As for the rubber hose that was bulging it definatley needed to be replaced.
Any special tools or advice on how to get these little quick disconnect bleeder hosese off with out breaking them? I can never seem to get them squeezed down enough so that the catch is released on both sides.
Any special tools or advice on how to get these little quick disconnect bleeder hosese off with out breaking them? I can never seem to get them squeezed down enough so that the catch is released on both sides.
#13
Well I got my replacemnt form JPAM... In order to get clearance I removed the header tank to thermostat bleed line.. in the process I broke the bleed line, It seems like the blastic and o rings had done a decent job bonding to themselves to the alumnium. Do they make a special tool for squezzing the disconnects on these hoses? If I would have been able to pull straight back maybee it woudln't have broken... My track record is pretty poor getting these little hoses off with out breaking them. As for the rubber hose that was bulging it definatley needed to be replaced.
Any special tools or advice on how to get these little quick disconnect bleeder hosese off with out breaking them? I can never seem to get them squeezed down enough so that the catch is released on both sides.
Any special tools or advice on how to get these little quick disconnect bleeder hosese off with out breaking them? I can never seem to get them squeezed down enough so that the catch is released on both sides.
Were you able to swap out the bulging hose? Did you have to drain the coolant first?
I would think using a clamp to get the top disconnect off, then the lower one.
I am thinking of doing the same. What is the part number for the hose you brought? link?
Thanks.
#14
I just did mine on my '00 XJR. It was bulging like the one in the photo and I found the hose to be very squishy and when I got it off (I cut the old one) there were flecks of rubber in the coolant from that bugger. New one is only a minor bi*ch to replace as I had to disconnect the water pipe on each cylinder head and move it forward enough to get some clearance to slip the new hose on. Oh, and those clamps....yeah, you can use long needle nose pliers, but you'll wish you had the right tool for those....clearance on the bottom clamp sucks!
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