Hi, I've been reading through these forums to learn as much as I can before buying an XJ8 VDP. I know 02-03s are preferable, but I've found a 2001 with 69k miles on it that seems safe enough. I just need advice from you.

The owner says he is the second owner. He told me he's done: Secondary chain tensioners, front brakes, alternator, spark plugs, battery, water and fuel pumps all recently at the dealership. I'm hoping that means metal tensioners, but I'll make sure. Said he's never had tranny issues.

I'm aware that model year 2001 has a mix of nikasil/non-nikasil engines, I still have to find out which one is in this car once I look at it.

I'm trying to balance my precautions with my impulses, and this car seems like it looks good so far!

So my questions:

1. What known issues are left that I should add to purchase cost? (Things I should have done right when I buy it)

2. If I follow through w/ #1, is this 2001 really going to be any more risky than an 02/03?

He wants a little over $8k, I have a good budget for emergencies/repairs as well. Thanks!

 

First thing I would do is ask for those dealer service receipts and then go and visit the service manager regarding that work. All in all, its a used car, your either buying someone else's problem or their care of it. There was an old race driver named Smokey Yunick who said "...a car has no idea the name that's on it, ..only how good it is the person that takes care of it." So your correct to be cautious, but after checking with the dealer and it all verifies, then you should be fine.

 

I always hear this "service receipt" story and wonder what, exactly, you are expecting to find on a 14 year old car? What is the service manage going to do except verify that the receipts are not fraudulent? He sure as heck ain't gonna say "Yeah,that's the car we screwed up the tensioner installation on!" If you want to pay for them to give it the once over, he might give an opinion.
If you have a good ear, check for engine rattles or knocks. Check for smooth transmission shifts, slow and under a pretty good load. If you do not have a mechanical ear, get someone who does to ride with you.
I obviously do not know the CA market, but I would say $8k is high range for the car. The cosmetics and paint should look really good- almost like new, and mechanical snigglies can be worked out.

 

Actually many mechanics know the cars they work on, especially higher end cars. I found dealer service receipts in my car and since there's only one Jag dealer in town they told me how cheap the guy was and would only do the basic needed. But since I already bought the car, it told me to thoroughly go through the areas on the receipts and I found what I thought were minor issues on some areas, tended be more.

 

Thanks for the opinions. I'm also going to have an independent jag mechanic inspect it for any problems/upcoming repairs, so if the dealer screwed up on anything, the inspection would show that, correct? Still waiting for more pics, but so far everything looks on the up n up

 

Anyone that can tell me the things that would still need to be done immediately after purchasing to avoid a catastrophic/expensive repair in the future? Thanks

 

If that one has the CATS system on it, then SHOCKS. They'll run you a pretty penny because they are specific. With only 69k though they should be good (should be!). Then the standard bushings, bearings and seal check.
Also on the shocks, check the top of the front shocks and if the bushings are shaving on the tower, that will need to be addressed. The replacement bushings run $68, but you need to get the retainers pressed out and repressed. If you don't have a press, a local machine shop should be able to do this for about $40-60 depending.
Be sure to turn the fan on full and set it on the upper section (dash) and feel to see how the air flows out the rear vent in the center council. The gate seal is known to break down and stuff up the channels. Its not hard to clean, but you have to take apart the center council to do it. Make sure it has a jack kit and spare, they are known to disappear.
Check for cracks on the wood panels. Its not the wood, its the shellac finish and runs about $150 per panel to redo properly. They may say ...just buy some off eBay. Oh contraire, the wood is matched for each car, so you may get a lighter or darker mismatched finish.
I hope this doesn't scare you away (for me its leverage to lower the price), it is a 14 yr old car after all.

 

@Highhorse I'll take note of those. Nothing scares me away as long as I can plan for it. My only worry is overlooking something that'll leave me f'd over with a scrap of metal or 3k repair, transmission aside. Ha.

 

If the tensioners are done I'd get the price a little lower than my trigger goes boom lol.

 

Funny thing is: When i asked why he had the tensioners done, he said its bc the plastic ones broke! Guy must be lucky the car still works

 

Well, he's "pondering my $7.5k final offer. It looks like he didn't detail the interior from pics, but driver bolster is worn badly. Not sure what can be cleaned (dirt on leather) vs needs actual repair (dye/reupholster etc). Headliner sagging a bit too, I'm picky. We'll see where this goes.

 

I was thinking 6.5ish but do you man they are awesome cars.

 

I know, 7.5k is still steep for me.. but I'm set on a black vdp, and don't see too many of them with low miles.

 

The exterior paint wouild need to be perfect for the interior faults to support the price.

 

have you considered XJR Prototype's XJR?
https://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/x...-78937/page12/

 

The guy just got back to me after contemplating $300 less, and said hes just gonna keep it. wow hopefully a blessing in disguise